Fan blade too close to belt?

[BulldogDriver]

I had concerns with the quality of mounts available for our cars today. I found this link in my search for mounts and that is what I used with a polyurethane transmission mount. The owner had to look for these mounts as he hadn’t had any interest in them in quite awhile. If I remember correctly he still had one more set. These should not fail, they are a locking design.

 

https://polybushings.com/pages/2219.html

 

Ray

 

 

[RivNut]

I had a thought earlier when talking about shimming the motor mounts.  If someone replaced the transmission mount with one that was too tall, the motor mount would act as a fulcrum and the tall transmission mount push the back of the transmission up and that would lower the front of the engine.  

[1965rivgs]

2 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:

I had concerns with the quality of mounts available for our cars today. I found this link in my search for mounts and that is what I used with a polyurethane transmission mount. The owner had to look for these mounts as he hadn’t had any interest in them in quite awhile. If I remember correctly he still had one more set. These should not fail, they are a locking design.

 

https://polybushings.com/pages/2219.html

 

Ray

 

 

  I have interference type motor mounts which I removed from a `65 Riviera Gran Sport. The mounts are "shot" and I cant prove it but in some parts books Buick lists a different motor mount for the `65 Gran Sport. Are they originals? Or just an aftermarket improvement?

  Buick had a recall on engine motor mounts in the mid sixties. The information is on the NHTSA website. The fix was a cable wrapped around the upper control arm which secured to an exhaust manifold bolt.

  If I was on a tight budget I`d just install an enginelift limiting chain on the driver`s side.

Tom Mooney

 

 

[1965rivgs]

6 minutes ago, RivNut said:

I had a thought earlier when talking about shimming the motor mounts.  If someone replaced the transmission mount with one that was too tall, the motor mount would act as a fulcrum and the tall transmission mount push the back of the transmission up and that would lower the front of the engine.  

  Thought about that too Ed but usually the opposite is true, ie, the original trans mount collapses...but anything can happen in 50 + years.

  The bottom relief in the fan shroud looks funky to me...and I`ve fielded many complaints about the aftermarket shrouds not fitting properly.

Tom

 

[telriv]

That cable fix really didn't do anything as the engine could still rise up enough to destroy the fan blade, shroud & depending pully's. 

That type was used on Chevy's because of the way the gas pedal linkage was when the engine rose the gas pedal went to the floor automatically & ALSO pulled the vacuum hose out of the booster.  NOW you have a vehicle at WOT & NO power brakes to boot.  Most aren't expecting such to happen & usually step on the brakes to find they have a VERY HARD pedal that does little or nothing to help slow down the vehicle at wide open throttle. IF your not quick to think & turn off the ignition.

Four links of chain are cheap & ALL you need is bolts that are about 1/2"-3/4" longer & some thicker than normal flat washers.

Like I mentioned I used to replace the left mount kinda often because of the abuse I put my Riv. through as an 18 Y.O. Since installing the chain haven't broken a mount in 50+ years.  AND, this is racing it using slicks & pullng the L/F tire off the ground. 

SO, it must work & how much cheaper can it be???  Paint the components black & most won't even notice, BUT you will now have an engine that STAYS where it should. Leave about 1/4" worth of slack in the chain & it will NOT transfer ANY noticeable engine vibrations to the interior of the car.

As we are ALL finding out things are not as cheap as they once were & 4 links of chain, 4 bolts & 4 washers can't cost any more than about $10.00 or less.

 

Just my diimes worth.

 

Tom T.

[1965rivgs]

Here`s the recall from the NHTSA...

 

1 Recallsfor 1965 BUICK WILDCAT

---

FILTER Recalls BY AFFECTED COMPONENTS

All (1)VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL (1)

---

August 2, 1976 NHTSA Campaign Number: 76V120000

FUEL:THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL

 

NHTSA Campaign Number: 76V120000

Manufacturer GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Components VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL

Potential Number of Units Affected 209,562

Notes

GENERAL MOTOR CAMPAIGN NO 67C3. POSSIBILITY THAT SEPARATED MOTOR MOUNT MAYALLOW MOTOR TO LIFT AND ROTATE, AFFECTING THROTTLE LINKAGE MOMENTARILYINCREASING THROTTLE OPENING POSSIBLY TO FULL THROTTLE. (CORRECT BY INSPECTINGAND INSTALLING RESTRAINT CABLE TO PRECLUDE THROTTLE INTERFERENCE). PASSENGERVEHICLE.

5 Affected Products

Vehicles

MAKE	MODEL	YEAR
BUICK	ELECTRA	1965, 1967
BUICK	WILDCAT	1965, 1967
CADILLAC	CADILLAC	1970

Request Research (Services fees apply)

 

Tom Mooney

[64Rivvy]

So I almost fell into what I call the Riviera rabbit hole here but stepped back for a bit. I really have no evidence that my mounts are bad and when I look at how completely off things are with the original fan clutch compared to the shorter fan clutch I'm using now, i have to think it's something as simple as my replacement radiator from opgi bing different dimensions or something else is off. Things are way too off all around to be just engine mounts. 

 

I used my time this weekend to run the engine through a few temp cycles and find leaks and check temps etc.  I finished replacing the remaining fuel lines.  I've got a few leaks as to be expected.  New tranny lines are leaking slightly at the radiator, new thermostat housing is weeping coolant despite using a new gasket and etc, dipstick is leaking oil where it goes in the block.  Engine sounded pretty good overall. 

 

Will come back to the cooling fan shortly but just really needed to make some progress.  Also got some more interior pieces reinstalled, almost done with last of the new carpet.  .Really appreciate all the help and ideas. 

[RivNut]

Do you have your original radiator so you can measure it and compare.  Knowing now that you dont have a factory radiator sheds a whole light on the matter.

Edited January 31, 2021 by RivNut (see edit history)

[64Rivvy]

I kept it forever just in case but tossed it a few months ago when I had a dumpster for some home reno and cleaned out the garage.  I know I out them side by side and they looked close but I didn't measure them closely bc i bought the radiator way before I was actually going to replace it. 

 

I just measured the new radiator for reference and here are the dimensions. 

 

25 7/8" wide x 22 1/2" tall x 3" deep

 

These measurements are all at the widest and tallest part of the radiator.

 

[RivNut]

I have a couple of loose radiators. I'll measure them tomorrow and get back on the forum. Tallest: tank or top of the neck?

Edited February 1, 2021 by RivNut (see edit history)

[64Rivvy]

Appreciate it. I measured to top of the tank assuming by neck you mean the neck that the radiator cap screws on to. Thanks. 

[RivNut]

8 minutes ago, 64Rivvy said:

Appreciate it. I measured to top of the tank assuming by neck you mean the neck that the radiator cap screws on to. Thanks. 

I'll measure to the top of the tank so you'll be able to compare apples to apples.

[Turbinator]

On 1/29/2021 at 8:02 PM, 1965rivgs said:

  Thought about that too Ed but usually the opposite is true, ie, the original trans mount collapses...but anything can happen in 50 + years.

  The bottom relief in the fan shroud looks funky to me...and I`ve fielded many complaints about the aftermarket shrouds not fitting properly.

Tom

 

aftermarket shrouds not fitting properly.
Tom, I broke my original fan shroud when I was getting my 63 nailhead rebuilt. I bought a new fan shroud from CARS LLC. The new shroud did not fit, but some juxtaposition of fitment and newly drilled holes made it fit. BTW, I repaired my broken fan shroud with fiberglass and two part epoxy. Observations of my country friends and family on parts repair has paid off.