USB Port and MP3 Pigtail Access Added To Console Ashtray Area

[Riviera63]

Since there are no car shows or events to go to I have trying to come up with other means to engage with my Riviera. I finally got around to one project that I have been thinking about doing for years which was swapping out the cigarette lighter for a USB charging port. 

 

The swap is a pretty simple and straightforward one as the ashtray/lighter section removes easily and there is ample room to work inside the console once that is removed. The hole for the original cigarette lighter has to be enlarged a little more than 1/8" to accommodate the USB port. This is easily done with a step drill bit. A black paint to cover the bare metal and you are good to go. I don't know where the original fuse was located for the lighters but, I have a feeling that someone removed it as there was a spade connection a few inches down from the lighter on the red power wire which made my install easier. The positive and negative wires for the USB port had circle connectors on one end which I had to snip off and add the male or female connector to plug them into the existing wiring. The positive wire comes with an inline 10A fuse. The USB port is illuminated by an LED light which will stay on as that is a constant power source. From what I have read there really is no threat of a dead battery as the draw from this light is minuscule. An on/off switch could be added easily though.

 

When I had my AM/FM radio redone I had a pigtail added so that I could play my MP3 or Ipod. The lead was thin and was able to fit underneath the ashtray and out. I was worried that this may fray the wire eventually. I came up with a solution that would prevent that and also give me the ability to vary the length of the pigtail. On the side of the ashtray was a circle of smaller circles drilled so that the lighter light would also give light to the ashtray. I drilled out this circle as it was the perfect size to slip the plug for my MP3 player through. I put a rubber grommet in the hole to make sure that the wire didn't snag on the edges of the hole. This is nice because I can pull out as little or as much of the pigtail as I need and it store nicely in the ashtray out of sight if necessary. 

 

I do have plans to use the wire from the original ashtray light to add a small accent light in the ashtray. Parts have not arrived yet. Will update when that is done.

 

Bill 

 

 

Edited September 3, 2020 by Riviera63 (see edit history)

[jsgun]

good idea, and its a lot more useful than plugging in a adapter 

[XframeFX]

Bill, are we on parallel projects? Very nice, your install especially when lit!

 

Early this year I discovered my numerous cigarette lighters of which some were OK, the sockets were not. They were all NG. Only 1 socket had the 2-slots for the light, NG. Sourcing early spring-loaded CASCO style lighters for non-smokers made no sense.

Replacing with those USB Jacks was more appealing but at 22mm, did not fit the .9" hole. So, I replaced both lighters with .9" dia 12V power points and wired the front to 'switched power' because of the USB charger parked there (for good) and the rear to the original 'live power' wire (no fuse).

 

I too added a 3.5mm 'Auxiliary Input' to my Delco Radio and mounted it next to the 12V power point. It has two 330 ohm resistors to combine stereo into mono and a 3-pole switch. I shot the assembly with a 2-part clear to seal it all in.

The last image shows a BT Adapter plugged into both,the USB for power and Aux-Input

 

Also, for the original lighter light, I had just a bare white-wire with no light socket. I crimped-on a white Series 56 connector with an adhesive LED stuck under the ashtray door, out-of-sight.

 

I blasted the rusty ashtray and shot it with a zinc spray. I noticed a series of perforated holes on the side where you routed your Input cable. Originally for illumination??

 

[RivNut]

John,

I noticed that you have the rare rear window defroster in your 63.  Does it still function as new?  Do you have any idea how many of the 40,000 1963 Rivieras were equipped with that option? Does you car have a/c? Backmin 82, I bought my 63 from the original owner. He was a Southern Oklahoma / North Texas guy. He told me that when he ordered the car, he checked off every box except the rear defroster because it would never be needed where he lived. Just wondering if you know the history of the car and what other options it has.

Ed

 

[XframeFX]

Rarer still, rear defog and AC. Usually one or the other.

Actually, my '63 has a franken-interior. The PITA console is the 3rd one in the car and is originally from a loaded rusted out Upstate NY Riviera. That and the rear defogger were colour matched and installed in my Riv. Both speeds function but it's just a blower. Useless against heavy Canadian frost. Interestingly, the low speed resistor is a chunky thing against the cardboard glovebox. A fire hazard?

Many early '63 options had separate wiring harnesses (ie, power antenna). I believe this is true with the rear defog option as well. The 1963 Shop manual shows a generic harness with inline fuse. Early dashboard harnesses had 11 circuit fuseblocks. I used the harness from that same NY car and has a 13 circuit fuseblock including a fuse for the defogger in the center like the '64s. Also, the harness has a green tab wrapped in at a branch off to the console. I assume this signifies a harness with power antenna and rear defogger. Changing out my hatched harness for the rear defog harness gave me major grief with the firewall bulkhead. DO NOT REMOVE!

 

The NY metropolis must've had FM early on. That car had the rare 1963 Delco 980626 AM/FM radio which I sent for repair in the '80s to replace the wonderbar in my car. When it was ready for pickup, I asked what was wrong with it and the shop said "I don't know, I just swapped-out the core". I ended up with a 1964 Delco 980659 AM/FM which failed in 2015 (capacitors) and is now repaired again.

 

Finally, I have a mint red 1964 dashpad. Colour matches perfectly. Only a Riviera nut would notice the speaker detail.

 

Ed, you have laminate Wiring Schematics? For 1963? The wiring diagram on the last page of Section 10 in the Shop manual is not 100% of what I have.

Also, I saved a copy of your white leather interior when you posted it, a looker! Just a thumbnail though. Can you post a larger image?

 

[64RivieraLife]

On 9/3/2020 at 1:53 PM, Riviera63 said:

Since there are no car shows or events to go to I have trying to come up with other means to engage with my Riviera. I finally got around to one project that I have been thinking about doing for years which was swapping out the cigarette lighter for a USB charging port. 

 

The swap is a pretty simple and straightforward one as the ashtray/lighter section removes easily and there is ample room to work inside the console once that is removed. The hole for the original cigarette lighter has to be enlarged a little more than 1/8" to accommodate the USB port. This is easily done with a step drill bit. A black paint to cover the bare metal and you are good to go. I don't know where the original fuse was located for the lighters but, I have a feeling that someone removed it as there was a spade connection a few inches down from the lighter on the red power wire which made my install easier. The positive and negative wires for the USB port had circle connectors on one end which I had to snip off and add the male or female connector to plug them into the existing wiring. The positive wire comes with an inline 10A fuse. The USB port is illuminated by an LED light which will stay on as that is a constant power source. From what I have read there really is no threat of a dead battery as the draw from this light is minuscule. An on/off switch could be added easily though.

 

When I had my AM/FM radio redone I had a pigtail added so that I could play my MP3 or Ipod. The lead was thin and was able to fit underneath the ashtray and out. I was worried that this may fray the wire eventually. I came up with a solution that would prevent that and also give me the ability to vary the length of the pigtail. On the side of the ashtray was a circle of smaller circles drilled so that the lighter light would also give light to the ashtray. I drilled out this circle as it was the perfect size to slip the plug for my MP3 player through. I put a rubber grommet in the hole to make sure that the wire didn't snag on the edges of the hole. This is nice because I can pull out as little or as much of the pigtail as I need and it store nicely in the ashtray out of sight if necessary. 

 

I do have plans to use the wire from the original ashtray light to add a small accent light in the ashtray. Parts have not arrived yet. Will update when that is done.

 

Bill 

 

 

Nice setup, do you know where i can get those parts ?

[Riviera63]

3 hours ago, 64RivieraLife said:

Nice setup, do you know where i can get those parts ?

 

I got mine on Amazon. They are also listed on e-bay. I am sure you can pick up a USB port at any number of places. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Bill

[64RivieraLife]

The black insert that the charging port and ashtray lighter sit in thats already part of the car? And you just cutstom made the holes or that was something you bought  to replace orinigal

[Riviera63]

4 hours ago, 64RivieraLife said:

The black insert that the charging port and ashtray lighter sit in thats already part of the car? And you just cutstom made the holes or that was something you bought  to replace orinigal

 

That is the original piece that came with the car. Go back to the beginning of the thread where I explain how I did it.

 

Biil

[telriv]

In actuallity the cigar/cigarette lighters have a fuse on them that screws into the rear of the liter.  This is a 10 gauge red wire that's ALWAYS HOT. IF something were to short out ANYWHERE from it's source you can imagine what can happen.  There are 2-3 red ires that come off the horn relay/junction block depending on options that are ALL powered by the POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE.  ALL these 3 wires are direct power from the battery. I remove them from the junction block & unwrap the harness about 4-6".  I then cut out about 7-9" of the red wires & install fusible links which need to be about 7-9" long. You use fusible link wire thats 4 gauges smaller than the wiring you need to protect. Now the WHOLE car is protected from the unimaginable FIRE!!!! 

    Some have told me that it's a waste of time & they have some sort of electrical shut off device installed.   

PROBLEM is that while you are driving down the highway or just down the street IF something were to happen & the vehicle starts to fill with smoke by the time you relize whats happening it could already be too late.  In this case the fusible link melts almost immediately even BEFORE you relize whats going on. Could save your car from burning & you from getting hurt because in your panic reaction & maybe getting into an accident.

IF you installed them properly NOBODY will be the wiser EVEN the PURISTS who want to keep it stock, concours as its taped inside the harness. 

   I know you said you ALSO installed a 10amp. inline fuse, BUT what IF its before the fuse what do you have protecting the wires BEFORE the fuse???

GM started installing fusible links in 1967, Ford in 1962 & Mopar sometime in the early 60's. WHY do you think the OEM car companies started using them???  They wouldn't spend a dime more than they had too. It was a CHEAP/EASY way to protect their investments because back in the day, although you my very seldom heard about it they were actually more fire related loses than just about ANYTHING else. I install them EVEN on older cars of the 20's-'30's on up.

PROTECTS THE WHOLE VEHICLE.

Just my thoughts.

 

Tom T.