Fossil Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) Mine is a 4 dr sedan with a straight 8. The issue is a noise coming from the drive shaft or rear end. Under acceleration it makes a ratcheting noise. In forward or reverse. Loud noise. If accelerating slowly or driving under little load there is no noise at all and very little slack in the drive train. I'm 69 and have never run across a noise like this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Edited March 12, 2020 by Fossil (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 Check the drive shaft joints. If its a ball and trunion type, it may have worn out the cups. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 I'll do that thanks. Can these be converted to newer style U-joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 7 hours ago, Fossil said: I'll do that thanks. Can these be converted to newer style U-joints? This style of joint is completely different to what we now know as a U joint, so short answer is no. However I have seen later era (50s) Mopar tailshaft conversions adapted without too much work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Thanks for your replies. I really appreciate them. Noticed the DeSoto section so will move over there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 I had my '28 Chrysler converter to a modern shaft no problem at all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 Pics, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 Fosssil, Like Maok, I too had a new drive shaft made with modern "U" joints at both ends for my '31 imperial, in Greeley, Colorado. Where are you ? Must be a shop somewhere near you that could do it. My cost was under $350.00 complete, less than a year ago. Mike in Colorado 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Thanks Mike. Optimism is always appreciated. I'm is SD and if I remember correctly there is a place in Sioux Falls that does custom drive shaft work. That about 80 miles away so not bad. We also have a local machine shop that does some work. Next week I plan to have this vehicle up in the air and start working on it. Looking forward to a summer behind the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Moe your photos look really good. Thanks for posting them. If your OK with it I might make copies to show the shop. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 No worries mate, I'll see if the driveshaft shop doesn't mind....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmoke Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 (edited) The Ball and Trunion driveshafts have about 1/2" to 3/4" spring loaded end play, which may have been critical to ensure rear-end to transmission proper functioning. Would need to be considered if going to a U-joint type solution at each end. The early Chevrolets that used U-joints had a splined slip joint at transmission end. Any knowlegable drive-train outfit (like Parts for Trucks) should be able to make up a suitable shaft with U-joints and a spline type slip joint, but not necessarily a simple job. Balls (with or without needle bearings) and Trunions are still available, I refurbished mine (1931 CD8 Roadster) recently, work perfectly. Also critical to have final shaft balanced. Edited March 13, 2020 by Gunsmoke (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 (edited) Thanks Gunsmoke for the information. I'm hoping the joints are the source of the noise. next week I should be able to pull the shaft and see what's up. Edited March 13, 2020 by Fossil (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 Fossil, Just to note, I had to take mine back, because the shop forgot to counter bore the rear flange for the "big honking nut" on the end of the pinion flange. When I told them to copy the oem shaft, they did not think that deep pocket in the center was necessary at the rear. They fixed it for free. Mike in Colorado 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Just got off the phone with the drive shaft shop in Sioux Falls SD and they are pretty confident they can convert the driveshaft. Depending on how many parts are needed it should run in the $200 to $400 range. So Mike you were right on the money 😃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 Good deal fossil. With the car sitting on the ground (no jacks), all they need to know is the distance from the diff flange face to the Tx (hand brake) flange. They will determine how much slack you need in the slip joint. A good shop will then replicate the front and rear flanges. Don't forget to use NEW grade 5 bolts at each end. I used "nylock" nuts and lock washers on mine. Let us know how she turns out. Mike in Colorado 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 My Driveshaft shop needed the cup on the output of the gearbox to replicate the shaft flange. I had spare gearbox to supply the cup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 1 hour ago, FLYER15015 said: Let us know how she turns out. I sure will. Like to get it down there next week but have to see how much this Virus thing messes things up. 1 hour ago, maok said: My Driveshaft shop needed the cup on the output of the gearbox to replicate the shaft flange. Just going to take the whole thing down there. Means making two trips to Sioux Falls but that's OK. Rather they get it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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