Installing Gauges - Water Temp, Oil Pressue, Ammeter - questions.

[first64riv]

Hello all,

 

I'm planning to install a water temp, oil pressure and ammeter gauges very soon.  I've already got all the bits and pieces I need but I have a question regarding where to tap into for the water temp gauge.  I know the ideal location is the same place the temp sensor is located but I purchased a tee with the intention of plumbing into the heater hose.  My question is, which hose do I plumb into?  I plan to plumb into the driver side hose that comes off the water pump.  Would that be okay?

 

For the oil pressure gauge, I already have my tee to plumb into the oil pressure switch.

 

For the ammeter, I am doing the standard wiring using 10ga wire.

 

Thank you

Chris

[telriv]

1st. you could use the plug in the left rear of the left head. Then you would still retain the light.

2nd. you could plumb into where the oil pressure sender switch is located on the R/R of the block just above the oil filter AND still retain the light.

3rd. it depends on if your using an amp gauge or a voltage gauge. Amp gauges aren't the norm any longer. Used to be because they were at the time the only type available.  AND, because of the required H/Duty wiring needed that gave the possibility of shorting out & MANY other problems. A voltage gauge is the preferred way to do this today & MUCH easier to install.

Are the temp. & oil gauges electrical or mechanical???  Electric may be easier, but as far as I'm concerned is a waste of time as your relying on electricity which isn't always consistent. AND, depends on too many other variable factors beyond your control.  In that case you might as well just rely on the lights you already have & just eliminate the hassle.  Of course I prefer mechanical gauges. Can you tell???

JUST MY opinion.

 

Tom T.

 

 

[first64riv]

15 minutes ago, telriv said:

1st. you could use the plug in the left rear of the left head. Then you would still retain the light.

2nd. you could plumb into where the oil pressure sender switch is located on the R/R of the block just above the oil filter AND still retain the light.

3rd. it depends on if your using an amp gauge or a voltage gauge. Amp gauges aren't the norm any longer. Used to be because they were at the time the only type available.  AND, because of the required H/Duty wiring needed that gave the possibility of shorting out & MANY other problems. A voltage gauge is the preferred way to do this today & MUCH easier to install.

Are the temp. & oil gauges electrical or mechanical???  Electric may be easier, but as far as I'm concerned is a waste of time as your relying on electricity which isn't always consistent. AND, depends on too many other variable factors beyond your control.  In that case you might as well just rely on the lights you already have & just eliminate the hassle.  Of course I prefer mechanical gauges. Can you tell???

JUST MY opinion.

 

Tom T.

 

 

Thanks Tom.  I'm not a fan of electric gauges.  These are mechanical.  Could I plumb into the heater hose?

 

I'm aware of the MANY problems with the ammeter.  I'm going to be very diligent in making sure it's secure.

 

Chris

 

 

[telriv]

Chris,

 

  You could. I myself have NEVER done one that way.

Do yourself a favor & DON"T use the plastic tubing that's normally supplied with the gauge.  Use copper tubing that's readily available in most auto parts stores.

  Insulate the lines going into the car, at least inside the car, by slipping a piece of hose over the oil line & then split a rubber hose over the temp. line to help from transferring engine noise into the car, AND before going through the firewall make a couple turns in the lines going into the car (like a brake line coming out of the master cylinder going to the frame) to take up the flex that happens when you accelerate or decelerate to help with flex so that a few years from now the temp. gauge stops working or all of a sudden you have NO oil pressure because the line broke outside.  IF your very alert you may see smoke coming from under the hood or behind you in clouds of smoke . 

  You must remember that the body, frame & engine are ALL separate & that are in constant flex & motion independently of each other.

I don't know if you have already or not installed fusible links to protect our cars from burning.  I did a write up about it.  Do a search & you should be able to find it. It was published in one of the Riviews in the past.

 

Tom T.

[telriv]

Chris,

 

 

  Another thing I just thought about.  What do you rely on when you have the heater control valve in the off position???  NO coolant flows with the valve off & the temp. gauge will not read actual coolant temp.

[first64riv]

I have the copper kit, picked it up a couple days ago.  I plan on twisting it around some PVC to create some "coils" in the line.  Hope that's what you mean.  I'll do the same for the water temp probe since it's pretty rigid.  I didn't think of that one.

 

Well, regarding the heater, since I use a manual valve (for now) my heat is always on or off.  I may have to figure out an alternative route for the temp probe.

 

For the ammeter, I'll look into a fusible link.  I am definitely  concerned of fire.

 

I'll keep you all posted!

Chris

 

 

[telriv]

Chris,

 

  Yes the PCV pipe works well for the coiling only 2 coils is plenty.

  Just mount it in the rear of the left cylinder head like most do, including myself.

   IF you need suggestions on removing the plug on the head just let me know.

 

Tom T.

[RivNut]

Do as Tom T. suggests. The heads for a nailhead are interchangeable right for left, left for right. They're exactly the same.  There's a threaded outlet in each head for the water temp sending unit.  When the engine is assembled, the hole is plugged for the driver's side.  Find the plug in the driver's side head, remove it, and install the sending unit for your gauge in it.  You may have to find a reducer to make things work but with the sender in this position, you'll be getting a true reading from your gauge. 

[telriv]

Just DON'T start stripping the plug.

[jsgun]

Anyone know if there's a temp difference between the passenger side front port, and the driver's side rear port? I thought the front would show more accurate because of the crossover. 

 

I'm using industrial grade rubber hose for grease guns for the oil pressure line to the gauge. 

[RivNut]

The water temperature closest to the top of the radiator (inlet) will be warmer than that at the bottom of the radiator (outlet) because it's been in the block longer and picked up more heat on its journey back to the radiator. So theoretically the temp at the front (oem placement) will be warmer.  But how much is probably insignifcant.  

[TheOldMan]

So Tom, what is the helping hand suggestion in getting the plug out of the drivers head for a water temp gauge without stripping it?

[rodneybeauchamp]

On 5/1/2019 at 12:16 AM, TheOldMan said:

So Tom, what is the helping hand suggestion in getting the plug out of the drivers head for a water temp gauge without stripping it?

 

Hi Oldman,

my plug came out of my ‘63 with the help of  section of water pipe to give the leverage needed. Probably not as strong as I was years ago, or perhaps more careful.

 

My electric temp gauge fitted nicely there and was no big deal to feed wires through. One thing is it gives is a consistent reading that I use to check how things are going. I thought about tapping into the crossover, but probably won’t do that now. 

 

Oil gauge is also electric and teed from the pressure switch location retaining the light. Awkward to get at, but tis a Riv!

Again, gives a pressure reading that I use as “normal”

 

Yes Tom, I thought mechanical gauges too, but bought high quality, made in USA gauges electric, with stepper motor control. Sweet!

 

Just my two bobs worth

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀