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1950 Imperial


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Not uncommon for large-engine 6V cars, if you're referring to a slow-turning-when-hot starter.  The easy and cheap stuff first:  Do you have double-ought 00 (very heavy) battery cables, recently cleaned on all ends, including the ground attachment?  Then measure voltage at battery and at starter while cranking--how much voltage drop?  Measure voltage at coil when cranking, too.

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First thing to check is the connections between the battery and starter. They must be clean and tight. 6V systems are sensitive on this point. The other thing to check is the battery. How old is it? Is it in good condition? Is your charging system working correctly? You should know this if you keep an eye on the ammeter. If you drive for 30 or 40 minutes at a time that should be enough to charge the battery.

 

After all this, the last thing to check is the starter. It may be time for a rebuild. Best place is a good local auto electric rebuilder. They usually do a better job than the chain stores for the same money or less.

 

If you are not a mechanic the best idea may be to take it to the auto electric shop and have it checked out. Ask around among your old car owning friends and see who they use.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Starters on the straight 8 Chrysler's can be troublesome after many years of service but.... check those battery cables! This if it cranks over slow.

They need to be thick... not cheap Chinese low strand count replacements.

If the cables are old, or too small I recommend using # 2  welding cables made up with commercial grade terminals.

But first as mentioned some proper tests need to be done...voltage drop/ amp draw etc.

Your Chrysler starter is a tough one to find parts for... even for  the re-builders so don't just assume that's the trouble. You'll have more when you find out how expensive that starter repair can be or if you even find parts say like a solenoid. That alone could be 3-$400.00!!!!

Don't throw parts at it. This from a guy who has had and still does own several 1946-52 eight cylinder Chrysler's.

Good luck... you will get it fixed!

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Probably not your issue, but when I readjusted the rod and main bearing clearances on my '31 Chevy (by removing shims to get clearance close to .0005-.0010), engine would start fine when cold, but when up to normal operating temp, everything was so tight battery would not turn engine over. When it sat for 15-20 minutes, would start fine. Within a few hundred miles issue went away. For your engine, the slightly tighter internals for a hot engine may be just enough to place extra load on battery and thus your problem.

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  • 2 months later...

Just came across this post.  By hard to start, did you mean cranks over slowly, or just wont fire?  If it's a slow starter, what has been suggested is worth looking into.  If it cranks normally, but just wont fire, might be getting vapor locked.  Check the exhaust manifold heat valve.  Might be sticking.  Also make sure you have a non-metallic spacer under the carb.

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  • 2 weeks later...

1950 Chrysler eights don't use a phenolic spacer and don't really need one.

It also would create problems setting up the Sisson choke linkage.

I know the 1953 and later MoPar sixes did use the spacer and shields on certain model to prevent carb heat soak.

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