"26 crankshaft end float

[R.White]

Please can someone tell me how the recommended 0.005" end play on the 5 bearing crank shaft is achieved?  If there is supposed to be a thrust washer it is absent on my engine.  The fore/aft movement is excessive.  The 'Mechanics Instruction Manual' says to set the end play when installing a new center main bearing but no information on how this is achieved.

 

Ray.

[robert b]

Ray the end float is set by the width of the center main bearing flange facings in respect to the crank journal width . This is set when machining the bearing when new . You can do what I have done in the past is to build up the front side of the main bearing with spots of solder , about 4 will do spaced around the lower half cap shell . bob

[R.White]

Thanks for that Bob.  I have been thinking along those lines as I have been going through the process of tinning the outer edge of the big end shells to take up the excessive clearance.  Never having done this before, it was at first quite nerve wracking but with a little practice using my new 100W soldering iron it becomes second nature.  I have learned that you need to keep away from the curve at the side of the shell as this can interfere with the radius of the crank pin so best to tin just the outer edge  (about 1/8th inch) and fettle it flat on some fine sand paper until a clearance of 0.010" can be obtained.  

 

I will try to do a similar thing with the centre main cap shell; although I guess in an ideal world it would be better to tackle the upper shells because there is a risk of loading the cap bolts if I just do the bottom shells.  

 

This reminds me of a similar situation with the Rover V8 where in some cases only the upper shells take the thrust.  Unfortunately, the Dodge engine would probably need to come out again to do the upper shells and I really can't face that again!

 

Ray. 

[robert b]

Ray make sure you only do it on the back face as this is not loaded when the clutch pulls back to disengage thus giving you full thrust surface. bob

[R.White]

Thanks for that Bob.

[Spinneyhill]

Is it possible you have found the source of the noise?

[R.White]

I do hope so!   I can lever the crank and it makes a big knock! 

 

Unfortunately, the knock I am trying to eliminate is more of a tap like I get with the lateral big end slap.

 

Whatever the result, I should have a quieter engine...I hope!

[cahartley]

My thought on this is if the knock (or whatever it is) didn't change when you engaged and disengaged the clutch crankshaft end play is not the problem....... 

[R.White]

I can't remember trying to listen to the tapping noise while engaging/disengaging the clutch.  Perhaps I should have done

 

Once you start looking for trouble you can be sure to find some.  I have measured the end float and instead of 0.005", it comes to a generous 0.012" .  When I lever the crank it makes a thump rather than a knock or tap so  I can't imagine it is the mystery noise somehow,

 

Ray.

[MikeC5]

I agree Ray.  I wouldn't ignore it but I would expect this would show up only during clutch operation.  I'm overhauling a Subaru engine at the moment and the maximum end float recommended is also 0.005".

As long as you can do it in-situ that is..  I also wouldn't remove the engine just for that.   

[cahartley]

If you should pursue the end play all you need deal with is the main bearing cap.

There is no need to go further.

I don't like the idea of using solder.......it's simply too soft.

Ideally I'd sweat a piece of brass sheet to the bearing cap shell.

Sand or file the bearing flange until it's shiny and tin it with solder.

Do the same with brass sheet piece and sweat them together.