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My 57 Buick special project


Mack0331

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Today's progress I got the rear bumper off. I actually had to cut it off cause the bolts were not budging. Got the rear end out that was incredibly easy. Then I cleaned up the rear of the frame with various wire brush attachments for a grinder and drill and got it painted with por15. 

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9 minutes ago, dei said:

You're moving right along. :)

Don't forget to keep the home fires happy too. If I had that space I'd live there too....

Yeah I get up earlier than the wife and kids and work out there until 2 or 3 on the weekends. Trying to get stuff done while its still new to me and I'm motivated lol. 

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1 hour ago, Mack0331 said:

Yeah I get up earlier than the wife and kids and work out there until 2 or 3 on the weekends. Trying to get stuff done while its still new to me and I'm motivated lol. 

 

ALL GOOD SIR.

As the saying goes, At least the wife knows where you are and keeps one out of the bars. :D

 

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Overcame my first little challenge. One of the bolts through the lower control arm and ball joint was seized in there solid!! Got the nut off fine but the bolt wouldn't budge. Beat it with a sledge and mushroomed the end of the bolt but the bolt didn't move. I ground that side flush to the control arm and figured maybe the bolt head is rusted solid to the arm so I ground the bold head off flush to the arm on the other side . beat it with hammer and punch still wouldn't move. Gave up for the night. 

 

Got a little propane torch today and heated the hell out if it but still couldn't get it to budge. Just couldn't get enough force with the punch. OK time to rig something up. I taped a small socket to a hammer and set that up against the end of the bolt after heating it with the torch again then smacked that hammer with a sledge . this way I could get some real force on it. After a few good solid hits and me hoping the socket wouldnt fly apart and take out a eye it gave way and started to go. From there I could get it out with a punch. Improvise , adapt , and overcome ! 

 

I ordered a deluxe front end rebuild kit from kanter now that I got that last ball joint off I'll mail those in to them as cores tomorrow and should get the kit in about 3 weeks. 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

Any reason the kanter springs are 3x the price of others ?

 

Is a vintage Buick,  coil springs is just the first of price gouging you'll probably run in to. Your best bet is to find a source that will tell you the loaded height of the spring and then go through a moog catalogue of you're trying to save big bucks. 

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2 hours ago, Beemon said:

 

Is a vintage Buick,  coil springs is just the first of price gouging you'll probably run in to. Your best bet is to find a source that will tell you the loaded height of the spring and then go through a moog catalogue of you're trying to save big bucks. 

All those I posted from rock auto say they are for 57 Buick's. I was wondering if there's something special about the Kanter ones that would make it worth buying them instead.  

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Probably claims "oem original specs", but there should be no reason why a Moog part wouldn't work. I would cross reference in the shop manual what the body height should be for stock springs. Take your measurement under compression, and then jack the car up and see what the unloaded height is. Then compare what Moog says for loaded height.

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My first parts order arrived. Front end kit from kanter. The new ball joints will be here in a week or two. Not throwing stuff together yet cause I may have a deal going for a rolling chassis with fresh rebuilt motor and trans. I only wanted the motor and trans but he wants to sell it together and the price is VERY good. If I get that I may use that chassis and throw all my new parts on that one. 

 

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Progress is slowing a little due to waiting on parts. Just ordered. 

Scarebird front disc brake conversion kit
 Coil Springs  Front Set 
 Coil Spring Insulator front
Coil Springs Rear Set
Shock Absorber Set front
Shock Absorber Set Rear
Control Arm Bumper upper
Coil Spring Insulator  Rear upper
Coil Spring Insulator Rear lower
Control Arm Bumper lower
 Stabilizer Bar Bushing

 

Springs are custom ordered to OEM specs so it will take about a week for them to ship. I should have my ball joints back about that time too so once all this stuff arrives I should about have the suspension wrapped up. 

 

I'm looking into torque tube stuff. Haven't torn it apart yet looking at the book it looks like there's a bearing in the rear , a u joint in there somewhere . is there a torque tube rebuild kit or something someone sells or I have to order everything individually ? Google isn't s huge help with this. 

 

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I have enjoyed your thread and your new project car.  Looking foward to tracking your progress.  Would you mind giving me the dimensions of your garage?  I plan on making a new detached garage and just trying to get an idea of what a good size would be without taking over my backyard.  Thank you.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

I have enjoyed your thread and your new project car.  Looking foward to tracking your progress.  Would you mind giving me the dimensions of your garage?  I plan on making a new detached garage and just trying to get an idea of what a good size would be without taking over my backyard.  Thank you.

Not sure the exact size. Big enough for 2 full size cars with plenty of room to work. 

 

 

 

I continue to amass parts....

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19 minutes ago, Beemon said:

No, Buick differentials are their own differential from 56 to 62 (and before that range, too, but 56-62 use the same carrier)... you weren't expecting to put some Olds gears in there, too, were you?

No guy told me there are no hard parts available for these. 

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You can get pinion bearings no problem, but yeah... I went through this last year. Just hope they are good and move on. You can buy reproduction bearings for $400+ a bearing, so almost $1000 for two new bearings. Could get lucky searching for NOS, but then you're also hoping they don't have damage like surface rust. IMO, if you can't feel anything on the race and the bearing surfaces are smooth and without discoloration, they should be fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the rest of the frame cleaned and painted and my springs finally came. Was trying to figure out how to get the springs in since its a bare frame jacking the control arm up would just lift the frame. Decided to use my big ass ratch strap to strap the jack and frame together so it could compress the springs. Yeah it was a bit scary. I text me wife she was at work and told her to text me in 10 mins to make sure I'm not dead before I tried it lol. It worked!  Started putting a few things together. The scarbird disc conversion all fit together great. Yes I know that caliper is on the wrong side I just grabbed one to see if it would fit its not bolted on. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a motor. 364 from another 57 it has a 4 barrel so that's pretty cool. Guy also gave me the tranny with it didn't need that but hey I'll take it. Also got a rear end from him for the center section since mine is screwed. All for $200. 

 

Was going to get it stripped and to the machine shop but that's going to have to wait until next month. I went on vacation to marthas vineyard and had some people I thought I could trust house sit and take care of my animals and they ended up ripping me off . Got about $3k worth of stuff so my car money for this month went to replacing that. One of these days I'll see them again and they'll get $3k worth of ass beating. 

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1 hour ago, Mack0331 said:

 One of these days I'll see them again and they'll get $3k worth of ass beating.

 

Sorry to hear about that, you left that bit out on the Facebook group. Working and growing up in Kent, I know a couple of guys if you plan on setting up a hunting party...

 

At least you made off with the steal of a life time for $200. Most people would settle for nothing less than $1000 for all 3. Does the engine turn over? If you're interested, I have a set of 401 rockers that are 1.6:1 lift versus your stock 1.5:1. I'll be home the weekend of the 27th. They're yours if you want'em.

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1 minute ago, Beemon said:

 

Sorry to hear about that, you left that bit out on the Facebook group. Working and growing up in Kent, I know a couple of guys if you plan on setting up a hunting party...

 

At least you made off with the steal of a life time for $200. Most people would settle for nothing less than $1000 for all 3. Does the engine turn over? If you're interested, I have a set of 401 rockers that are 1.6:1 lift versus your stock 1.5:1. I'll be home the weekend of the 27th. They're yours if you want'em.

I haven't checked it out yet I just got it home and unloaded. Ill be replacing almost everything internally. Found out on top of the 4 barrel intake it also has the driver side dual exhaust manifold. I didn't know there was anything special about that but another guy told me they are worth like $600. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I was able to get it to the machine shop after all. So they are going to tear it all down get it all checked out then hit me with the quote for the long block in about 3 weeks. If I'm lucky I'll have enough by then to get it done. 

 

It is not fun seperating a trans from a locked up motor! I was able to finally seperate it enough to get a wrench in between the motor and trans and get at the bolts in there that way. 

 

So I loaded it up in my old truck and had my wife drop it off for me while I was at work. Managed to piss off the machine shop and my wife lol. Machine shop said they would have quoted me more if they knew how bad a condition the engine was in. I don't feel thats my fault though cause I did tell them it looked like its been sitting at least 20 years. I " forgot " to mention to my wife the money I gave here to give them was just a deposit and not what the whole build would cost but the machine shop told my wife that lol.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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