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No I never did. I wanted to get one for a complete electrical conversion, but it's really hard to get behind it when you go through three Pertronix modules in a span of three months. I thought about buying the MSD distributor, but at that point you're dropping a lot of cash on something that might fail again. So I went back to stock setup. Points are a mechanical breaker system and will never fail. When they wear out, I can drive down to the auto parts store and buy a new point breaker and condenser for $15 and be done with it, vs waiting 2 weeks for a return confirmation and then another week for the replacement to arrive. MSD probably is the way to go, I just wish they anodized the billet aluminum in black. It's just with everything going the way of "Engineered in the USA, made in Mexico/China", the quality has really suffered.

 

To clarify, I wanted electronic ignition to drive an EFI system and was going to use the PowerGen for powerplant. All parts of the system have to work or you're stuck. And unless you cut off your generator bracket and weld in an alternator bracket, generator is the only thing that safely works.

 

Good luck!

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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I've never had an issue with NAPA's Echlin brand. I've bought some cheaper stuff from the other national parts outlet stores but none of them have held up. Good to hear the MSD unit is running good. What did you use for springs and bushings? Sorry a bit off topic. The MSD distributor with the MSD Atomic EFI would be the best setup because you then get rid of the vacuum advance and lock out the mechanical advance, buy the phased rotor and have the EFI system run the timing.

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This is the Borg Warner brand.. Once I find a good one I'm set for awhile but this is getting old and clearly unreliable...I  don't  remember anymore how I have it set up...I  thinII used one light silver and one blue spring with maybe the biggest or second biggest bushing.

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Two not-admitted-to issues with electronic ignition.  ONE, there is a minimum voltage that makes the module work.  Below that voltage level, the engine can still crank but will not fire and run.  Add jumper cables to another car and it starts immediately.  TWO is that there used to be a 1 degree/1000rpm retard built into the system.  Early systems mentioned that, which would allow for a few degrees MORE near idle and not exceed the total advance level.

 

With ignition points, IF a spark can happen at the spark plug or in the distributor cap, the engine can potentially start and run.

 

The main issue I've seen with older distributors is Cam Lobe Wear.  That can mean the point gap can vary between cylinders, even if the dwell meter reading is in-spec.  Sometimes, the wear can be enough that when the point gap is "in spec" the dwell reading will not be correct.  A dial indication will illustrate this situation very clearly.

 

NTX5467

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2 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

I have had issues with the BW points / condensor.  Hardly last 10,000 miles.  Try Standard if you can find them or the Napa brand if you can't.

NAPA Echlin is Standard Motor Products, FWIW.

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On March 19, 2017 at 1:01 PM, Beemon said:

I've never had an issue with NAPA's Echlin brand. I've bought some cheaper stuff from the other national parts outlet stores but none of them have held up. Good to hear the MSD unit is running good. What did you use for springs and bushings? Sorry a bit off topic. The MSD distributor with the MSD Atomic EFI would be the best setup because you then get rid of the vacuum advance and lock out the mechanical advance, buy the phased rotor and have the EFI system run the timing.

… fwiw… to truly control timing for efficiency and real fuel economy in an EFI conversion even with on board computer and such, one needs to also install a crank sensor module and separate coil packs for each cylinder and then also have the capability to hard wire into the entire computer interface along with the EFI firing.  About 8 years ago I was looking into a Mega Squirt setup just for that reason and at the time they had the EFI setup but not the capabilities to control timing.  It would be interesting, ( as I have seen one setup like this ) is to construct a covert fuel rail EFI system setup for the nailhead or tap and modify an existing stock manifold which would also include the aforementioned needed crank sensor and coil packs, then run all that to mother board … also would need to take an old 4 - bbl Carter apart and use that as the throttle body and attach your TIP sensors to that.  Gut out your A/C stock fuel pump and covertly run a line through it.  Have a stock looking gas tank made that has the needed electric fuel pump inside the tank and run your return line tucked into the inner side frame rail … just some food for thought ..

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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buick man, I would do the fuel pump like the late 50s fuel injection. Run the stock pump to a sump with a high pressure pump. The MSD distributor would be a crank trigger essentially (ok cam trigger, but basically the same thing). You could get a coil pack off of like a modern car, stick them on the spark plugs and run the wires, but the MSD distributor is all electronic so it really does the same thing. That's why the MSD distributor and Atomic TBI kit go so well together.

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It seems that Standard has assembled many former stand-alone brands of car parts under their umbrella.  Some "good enough", some allegedly "performance", and others.  Yet EACH (at least in plug wires) still has their own market demographics to cover.  If they are doing Echlin for NAPA, it's probably to NAPA's specs and not just repackaging another brand, I suspect.

 

NTX5467

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