Finally now to get it started

[rowan782]

Just bought my first Buick - a 1956 Special 46R.  Transport driver fired it up and drove it off the trailer into my garage.  Now I can't get it started.  Finally noticed the middle position on the ignition is "ON" not the right which is "OFF".  Thought OK. But no.  I know your'e supposed to push the accelerator, right?  Also.  what grade of gasoline?  Any good motor oil will do?  thanks

[JohnD1956]

Take a look at the passengers side rear corner of the carb.  The starter switch for the accelerator is there.  See if it's hooked up. If not then chanes are you have a starter button somewhere on the dash board, or under it, near the drivers seat. 

 

If it is hooked up then you turn the key to the on position, and then push on the gas pedal till it starts to spin over.  This could be a 3/4 travel to full pedal to the floor push.  Note, One or two pumps to begin with should set the choke, and when started the fast idle speed is around 14-1700 RPM to open the choke.

[SpecialEducation]

Simple answer on the fuel & oil:

 

Specials were lower compression, so regular gas will do as long as timing is set right.  Avoid ethanol. It's detonation resistant, but it will eat the soft parts in the fuel system (especially fuel pump diaphragms).

 

As far as oil goes, a good brand diesel motor oil that meets the CJ or CI spec will take care of those flat tappets & cam (don't add ZDDP to oil that already has it, that's bad).  There are more expensive alternatives, but CJ is cheap and highly available.  First number doesn't matter much, but the 2nd number should be 30 unless the engine is really lose. Don't go over 40 unless oil pressure is in the toilet. If you put in 20w50 thinking racing oil will surely protect it, and oil pressure is through the roof, yer probably starving it. 

 

Hey. How about some photos!?!

Edited January 18, 2017 by SpecialEducation (see edit history)

[Beemon]

Valvoline VR1 racing oil has the right amount of zinc in it, too. When you get to rebuilding, I would look into Amsoil or Royal Purple if you plan to drive it a lot. Synthetics tend to weep, and the standards for producing are so low that most are comparable to conventional fluids, but Amsoil is the type of company that will issue you a refund if their oil doesn't hold up in a lab test. The engine just needs to be clean or you'll be de sludging it and that can cause more problems than regular conventional oil. 

 

If you can't avoid ethanol, a pump rebuild is imminent. Also periodic inspection of solder joints on the carburetor. Don't ask me how I know...

[Bhigdog]

A lot of people added a start button or switch. Look for one..........Bob

[old-tank]

 

Your 56 Special will run well on the lowest octane regular.

Zinc has been discussed before.

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/203503-zinc-in-motor-oil/

Extra zinc or high zinc will not not hurt, but is probably not necessary.  Probably only needed in racing engines with high valve spring pressures.

Straight weight oils and thicker multi-vis oil have as much or more zinc as was available in the 1960's.

I inspected the cam and lifters on one of mine at 80,000 miles of running Castrol 20w-50...all in pristine condition.

Willie

[rowan782]

Thanks a million.  Tahiti Coral & Dover White

Edited January 19, 2017 by rowan782
More info (see edit history)

[SpecialEducation]

Wow!

[rowan782]

Yahoo! Yes a button under the dash. thanks again everyone.  But what was I thinking?  I had a Special 51 years ago, Sorry for the other photo, I clicked it by mistake and couldn't get rid of it.

[rowan782]

The two boys on the trike are in or on the '57, can you pick them out?