1937 40 Special Advice needed

[Mark Hatton]

I have a 1936 Manufactured 1937 Model Series 40 Special 248 CI  four door trunkback right hand drive, and live in the UK. My motor needs a rebuild (a re-bore and a crank grind at least), I have dropped the sump and found that the con rod bearings are not replaceable, which makes this an expensive fix here in the UK. I would ideally like to buy a remanufactured engine with replaceable shell conrod bearings from the US, and would also like another gearbox as mine is not good. Has anybody any recommendations as to who to go to? What years of engine would be a straight fit? Would a column change 1939 gearbox be adaptable to my floor change mechanism? The rest of the car is really good, so it is worth some effort & money on my part to sort it out. Absolute originality is not as important to me as reliability & useability.

 

Mark Hatton

[MCHinson]

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. 

 

It may be difficult to communicate with him since he generally only communicates by phone or by mail (not email), but the guy you need to talk with is Dave Tacheny. I think he is the guy who has the most parts for 30's Buicks. Dave's address is 11949 Oregon Ave. N., Champlin, MN 55316. His phone number is 763-427-3460. You may also want to consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. A Membership Form can be downloaded from this site: http://www.3638buickclub.org/membership.html. 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Mark, welcome. We are glad you are here.

 

  Any 248 or 263 engine is a bolt in change. You only need to exchange the front plate that has your motor mounts. The 37 clutch/flywheel housing will bolt right up Simple, really. I think all '49s and for sure all 50s and later have insert connecting rod bearings. The later 248 connecting rods will work in your '37.  263 rods will not. Also, the '37 rods can be machined to take inserts, I am told.

 

  If you really want another engine, I would shoot for the 263. A little more bang for the buck [Pound]. They are available.  Most that you find will need rebuilding. Same as yours.   Having said that, I have a rebuilt 248 that will probably be available soon.

 

  Good luck

  Ben

 

  

[1939_Buick]

Is your car RHD?  A USA Buick or McLaughlin Buick ex Canada? There is a Buick UK club.

 

With later engines you need to be careful that they are not for Dynaflow (auto). The crank is different, but can be modified.

 

You need to be careful about left hand drive vs right hand drive. The bell housing - clutch lever is different for RHD. But you can put your RHD bell housing & clutch on a new engine

 

Buick usually changed gearbox design - dimensions annually in the 1930’s. What is bad with your current gearbox? Synchromesh? Jump out of gear?  Some internal parts are common for several years.  New parts are available at a price, but takes time to find. Any replacement gearbox may have the same problems as yours, so be careful.

 

You definitely do not want a ’39 column change. Is not a bolt in swap. And ’39 gearbox’s have a lot of 1 year only parts. ’39 gearbox’s are not as good as those before or after. Do you have a local source for a ’39 RHD gearbox?

[Mark Hatton]

1 hour ago, MCHinson said:

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. 

 

It may be difficult to communicate with him since he generally only communicates by phone or by mail (not email), but the guy you need to talk with is Dave Tacheny. I think he is the guy who has the most parts for 30's Buicks. Dave's address is 11949 Oregon Ave. N., Champlin, MN 55316. His phone number is 763-427-3460. You may also want to consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. A Membership Form can be downloaded from this site: http://www.3638buickclub.org/membership.html. 

Thanks for that. I have encountered Dave Tacheny before a few years ago when he supplied me with a distributor for my 48 56S. I shall contact him again

[Mark Hatton]

1 hour ago, First Born said:

Mark, welcome. We are glad you are here.

 

  Any 248 or 263 engine is a bolt in change. You only need to exchange the front plate that has your motor mounts. The 37 clutch/flywheel housing will bolt right up Simple, really. I think all '49s and for sure all 50s and later have insert connecting rod bearings. The later 248 connecting rods will work in your '37.  263 rods will not. Also, the '37 rods can be machined to take inserts, I am told.

 

  If you really want another engine, I would shoot for the 263. A little more bang for the buck [Pound]. They are available.  Most that you find will need rebuilding. Same as yours.   Having said that, I have a rebuilt 248 that will probably be available soon.

 

  Good luck

  Ben

 

  

Ben,

 

I hadn't imagined that replies would come so quickly! I'll look for a motor and transmission, as I would like to have a spare. I would be interested in your 248 motor if it was available, assuming that I haven't sorted out another one beforehand, and you are prepared to help me get it to the UK. I haven't yet decided how to deal with the problems my motor has. I was originally planning to replace the shell bearings, fit new pistons, and check out the valves etc (a 'light' rebuild), which I could do without taking out the motor. This may still be possible if I could pick up a full set of later rods. A decent replacement motor would likewise be a quick fix, hence my interest in yours!

 

Regards, Mark

[Mark Hatton]

31 minutes ago, 1939_Buick said:

Is your car RHD?  A USA Buick or McLaughlin Buick ex Canada? There is a Buick UK club.

 

 

With later engines you need to be careful that they are not for Dynaflow (auto). The crank is different, but can be modified.

 

 

You need to be careful about left hand drive vs right hand drive. The bell housing - clutch lever is different for RHD. But you can put your RHD bell housing & clutch on a new engine

 

 

Buick usually changed gearbox design - dimensions annually in the 1930’s. What is bad with your current gearbox? Synchromesh? Jump out of gear?  Some internal parts are common for several years.  New parts are available at a price, but takes time to find. Any replacement gearbox may have the same problems as yours, so be careful.

 

 

You definitely do not want a ’39 column change. Is not a bolt in swap. And ’39 gearbox’s have a lot of 1 year only parts. ’39 gearbox’s are not as good as those before or after. Do you have a local source for a ’39 RHD gearbox?

I didn't know the Dynaflow engines had a different crank, so shall be aware of this - thanks. My gearbox has a damaged gear, so it makes rhythmic clicking noise in first and second. It also jumps out of first sometimes, but can be easily held in gear no problem when you know. It is completely quiet in top. I know of a complete 39 Coupe for sale in the UK, and was hoping that both the engine and gearbox would fit. I won't buy it for the engine alone, as it is too expensive for that now I know that the gearbox is not the same. My gearbox is certainly useable, especially as it is great in top!

[F&J]

6 minutes ago, Mark Hatton said:

It also jumps out of first sometimes, but can be easily held in gear no problem

This could be broken detent spring in the shift rail area....and / or, worn shift fork on 1-R

 

the reason it is quiet in 3rd, is the fact that input shaft is locked to the output shaft in 3rd, and even though the cluster gear still turns, it has no "load" on those gear teeth.

 

.