1926 Standard Torque Ball Packing - Size

[26-25Buick]

It's time to fix that oil leaking out the back of the torque ball as I can't keep oil in the gearbox anymore and it's making a mess on the garage floor but unfortunately Bob's is out of stock (TBP-14) of the packing for torque balls for our car. Rather than pulling the old one out and measuring it does anyone happen to know what size it is so I can try and find a source for it out here in Oz.

[Larry Schramm]

I have to rebuild the torque ball on my truck this winter.  Ugghh!

[Hubert_25-25]

Neil,

My torque ball is out of the car.  The groove is .255 wide and .210 deep.  It looks like the wool packing is 1/4 x 1/4 and 16" long.  I am not a big fan of felt, so I am always looking for alternatives.  I would think a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 rubber would work better, if it is a low durameter like 10A or 30A, so a little squishy.  I am wondering if anyone has tried anything like this?   For that matter, 1/4" round O ring material would fit in the groove.

There is also a flat spot on the top of the torque ball housing.  I would think that it is best to put the split in the seal at the top on this flat side. 

I am also thinking that you should have a very thin paper gasket on the flange with the 6 bolts, or use RTV sealant here.

Hugh

   

[dibarlaw]

Bob's had a white packing material and it fit fine with only about 1/2" to trim. I believe Restoration Supply stocks the same material.

[26-25Buick]

Thanks for the quick response guys and the great photos Hugh. Next question is will the torque ball cover slide far enough back to change the seal without removing the prop shaft?

[dibarlaw]

Neil:

The torque ball cover does slide back. I had no problem with mine while replacing the seal.

[tonybuick]

hi Hugh   and all I used a o ring in my buick works well and I fitted a gasket

[26-25Buick]

Excellent news. The job sounds like it should be straight forward and hopefully completed by only lifting the floorboards. I've ordered some felt for a first up try and given the car only does about 500 miles a year will hopefully last a long time. In the end it only cost AUD $13 for 120 inches of 1/4 x 1/4 grade B engineering felt, while I probably have a life time supply of felt at least I haven't got a lot invested if it becomes a replacement item on a regular basis.

 

Hugh I think I might add some sealant as you suggest as belts and braces against a leak in the future at the housing joint. I had a small weep at the top plate of the gearbox under the selector and interestingly I found there was no gasket/sealant under there so I would not be surprised if there is no gasket for the ball housing installed on mine either. Also I like your idea of using rubber as a long term fix especially if you knew someone who could vulcanise it in place for you.

[Hubert_25-25]

Neil,

   Here is how I plan to do mine.  I will look for 1/4" diameter neoprene or EPDM rubber O ring material 17" long.  The groove is roughly 1/4" wide, but a little shallow of 1/4", so it should allow a little compression. I would cut the rubber just a little bit long, so it fits in the groove, but the ends are pushed a little tight so that it will not stay deep in the groove in a few areas (if you know what I mean) until it is all assembled.  I will then put RTV silicone in the groove with the O ring material, and let it get a little tacky.  Then it will hold the rubber material as I do the assembly.  I will put the cut on the top side, and I will also put a ring of RTV as a flange gasket.  I could make a thin paper one too.  You could do the same process with the felt, and the RTV may provide a bit of elasticity and binder to the felt where it may last longer.  A prewar Buick without oil leaks - Absurd.     Hugh

[Hubert_25-25]

Looking at this post from 2 years ago since I last responded, and just now replacing the torque ball seal.  I purchased the 1/4" x 1/4" white teflon braided packing seal from Bobs.  You can get this stuff at McMaster Carr and lots of places as well.  I did cut the ends at a bias when I installed it into the groove in the end cover.  This replaces the 1/4" x 1/4" felt with a long wearing teflon rope seal.  You can see just a little of the new seal in the photo at the red arrows.  I also put the rope joint at the top of the groove.  The new rope is denser than felt so when I assembled this, I noticed that the torque ball was difficult to move, so I used a socket and extension to make sure it would move when it needed to.   I am hoping that it is just new and will loosen up some over time.  It is a little stiff but it does pivot up and down the entire distance it should move.  The Standard series did not have a leather cover to keep the dust out.  A dust boot is a good addition.     Hugh

 

Edited November 27, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

On 10/20/2016 at 5:57 PM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Then it will hold the rubber material as I do the assembly

Ref making your own "rubber" O-ring. You can join it with cyanoacrylate glue a.k.a. superglue. I made a new O-ring for the pool sand filter top this way and it worked a treat. You just have to cut it nice and straight on both faces first.