tonybuick

they made a nice job when they made the disturber looks good

can you put a timing light on no 1 and turn it over by hand and when the light flashes mark it on flywheel with chalk and then see where it is firing the plug-in relation to the udc mark the problem is you usually set no 1 to udc and adjust dis so points just open but you cant see the point opening have you checked its not firing on exhurst stroke

they could have better brakes on it

we still do 200 mile days in our buick and travel at 45 to 50 mile per hour it is full oil pressure engine when buick made the 25 25 they got it pretty good buick are good cars but a 25 25 just seems to be the best we know someone who had a 28 and a 25 he always said the 25 was a better car

problem is by the time he buys them ships them to new zealand he could buy another car

hi if you look at the pictures it should answer a lot of your questions i was unable to source any of these bearings in new zealand where do you live you may have more luck if you live in usa you can see in one of the pictures how i removed the sleeve by grinding then i split it with a cold chisel so as not to grind the diff housing i brought the rollway bearings which came with the sleeve the rollers and the outer sleeve which fits in the wheel the sleeve which goes onto the diff was to short needs to be longer for the oil seal to run on so i brought some longer sleeves from surplus bearings if i was doing it again i would buy the rollway bearing and machine up a sleeve for the seal to run on push that onto diff first then bearing sleeve on would save a lot of money and the longer sleeve was really hard to get and the bearing shop said i brought the last ones, but you can never believe that i have done about 4500 miles on the bearings with no problems the last picture shows the difference between the rollway bearing and what the buick should have about 20 mm to short id machine up sleeve next time thanks tony

hi, it's been a few years since i did the bearings and have had no problems i used the disc grinder on the bearings and almost cut through to the diff housing then split it with a cold chisel i don't think there was enough room for a puller because of the back plate or my puller wasn't strong enough to remove it you need to drill the rivet out i will have a look tomorrow for the paperwork on the bearings and see if it's got more info on it but i got the inner sleeve from a bearing shop in Australia that deals in old bearings and old stock, and they got the sleeves from usa they told me i brought the last ones i got a spare set as well for the rollers and the outer sleeve which goes in the wheel i got them of a bearing shop and they were cheaper and had more rollers than the one bobs buick sells i should have paperwork for that but i had no luck buying the bearings in new zealand and they are hard to get i couldn't get front wheel bearings ether but i changed them out to tapered rollers i will report back tomorrow we have a holiday due to the queen dyeing

could the splines be worn making the plates unable to slide in or out easily causing the plates to hang up so it isnt a smooth action a bit on or off when working the clutch pedal

hi what part of new zealand are you buick diffs do seem to lose teeth i had the same problem on my 1925 i was able to find some good parts there was a guy in our branch of the vintage car club and he had a 1916 or 1918 buick and his diff broke as well and he found some one in oxford who cut new gears for his diff they where straight gears though so not so good maybe this is something to look into thanks tony

thanks for that they are heavy i can remeber when i took mine out i will give it a go as you have suggested i have been asked to help another buick owner put his back onto his car he removed it for repair and used crow bars etc to get it out and he bent the shaft from the starter pedal the water pump is still on the car but it would save time to leave this on and fit starter motor again the tapered pin etc has been removed i did my starter gen up when i did my car up and i haver never had to thouch it again thanks tony

hi which screws do you remove you have to remove the two that hold the sheet metal cover off as its trapped by the pump drive do you mean the 3 screws that hold the housing around the disbuter drive gear if you took that and that gear off you would free up a lot

can you remove the starter motor with out removing the water pump i always remove my water pump first but could you slide the drive dog foward on water pump and get the motor out asking for a fellow buick owner thanks tony

i think you should carry on when you get it running right you will never look back good starting better miles to the gallon and with the new set up and fuel pump you can take on long and high hills and it will keep going like a train you will need to fit a fuel pump but its also a new carb with a good float and seat so it will handle the pressure from the fuel pump marvel carb wont you can get a low pressure high flow fuel pump we make some in new zealand in 6 and 12 volt i dont belive you will melt pistons the carb dosent pump fuel in the engine has to suck it and the new carb will be doing a better job of metering the fuel than what the marvel ever did and i dont belive the old carb could limit the revs if so can i come and hold my foot hard down on the accelartor on his buick bet it revs it guts out if the carb is letting to much fuel in it will flood the engine run rough and you will need to clean the spark plugs if you do run for a long time like this you may wash the bores but you should have it sorted before you do any damage i put a down draft on my buick would never go back i have stopped many times to help other buick owners out to find vaccuum tank problems fuel running out of the carb not running right i would get in my buick and drive 200 miles any day it just goes so good i fitted the down draft carb 20 years ago and have done about 15000 miles in it i would mount the carb so it sits the same as it did on the car it came off i would fit or use a carb with a adjustable main jet and getting it set up on a rolling rd is good i would check what size engine the car was and its rpm of the carb you are using my buick is 191 cubic inch so i fitted a carb off a 202 cubic inch car (it work but used lots of fuel )but it revered to 6000 rpm the buick will only rev to 3000 so i went to a carb off a 173 cubic inch motor at our lower rpm the air following through it is more correct for the carb im not a expert but this is my 2 cents worth i also fitted a disturber from a morden car with autmatic advance works well and i can go to the local shop and get parts for the carb and disturber caps points etc good luck tony

i have a freind in the north island who is doing up a 26 buick what is this for my 25 dose not have one looks like some sort of oil filter thanks tony

hi so Are you changeing to 12 volt to make the electronic ignition work when i did my car up i fitted a hq holden disburter to it just a little lathe work kept the points cap etc cheap for replacement parts

hi all the small 25 do go well and they dont seem to break down very often which is good i new someone who had a 1928 and a 25 and he thought the 25 was better car to drive and gave less problems put the top down fill the tank enjoy it we can do about 200 miles on a tank and by then i have had enough for the day heavey steering and watch the breaks in the wet

well done now go for a 100 mile drive run it in change oil then try and wear it out

hi what year is the ford mount needing a mount for a another projet thanks

hi the scoll ends look smart i dont mind copies on these sort of items as it will be stronger and wont break the hard part would be finding a good patteren its got scrolls on the round cap as well i had all my door handles re cast dont have to worry about them breaking

Report post x #9 Posted Friday at 11:39 PM Thread and ID is obviously critical. On ebay I was lucky to find this pot metal survivor, and it survived the replating process too. Installed on my 27-25 and even though it's for 1925, I think it still looks appropriate. hi all i like this and its for my year( hugh you should cast some id buy a few of them)

all good

Yea marks on flywheel are very hard to see if you have trouble ill try and take a picture when i finsh work thanks

First is is exhaust there should be some timing marks on the flywheel which line up with marks on the left side of engine and you can then use a timing light from memory there are a 100 teeth so every tooth is 3.6 dregs if you want to advance it i don't advance mine to much

Is the clutch working between the starter and water pump it should only work one way when engine running it drives genset when cranking it slips as you can't turn motor from starter motor and from front grears