'26 rear springs

[R.White]

I need to remove the spring eye bolts but I think there is a problem.  I assume that the hole provided in the valance is to enable removal of the bolts and not just for greasing??

 

Unfortunately, if I do need to extract the bolt through this hole, they are not in alignment and I am not sure how to get round the problem.  Will I need to loosen the body bolts and raise the body up slightly?   Detaching the axle from the springs seems a bit drastic! 

 

OR am I missing something??

 

Ray.

 

  

Edited September 6, 2016 by R.White (see edit history)

[TonyAus]

Looks like another antipodean bodge.  If the valences had been fitted properly the shackle pins should have lined up with the holes.  Felt (or uncured rubber) packing should first go on the top of the chassis followed by the valances and then the body. I bet the packing (if any) has been fitted on top of the valences rather than under them.  As you will have to lift the body in order to remove the shackle pins you may as well fix the packing at the same time - and the radiator will probably need shimming up so the bonnet fits.

 

 

[R.White]

Thanks Tony.  It takes a lot to make me swear but this is just about the last straw!  The annoying thing with having to raise the body is that I can only just get the car in under my garage door with the top up as it is.  Any higher and she won't go in without lowering the top.  Something we have to consider with our rotten weather.  Not so much a problem as an damned inconvenience.  As it happens, I don't see any packing anywhere. Just the wood frame bolted to the chassis.  Raising the body is just too involved for now.  

 

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

I've a good mind to unbolt the axle....

 

Ray.

[keiser31]

I was going to suggest to unbolt the axle.

[Taylormade]

Ate you removing the eye bolts to get the rear axle and springs off as a unit, or for another reason?

[R.White]

18 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

Ate you removing the eye bolts to get the rear axle and springs off as a unit, or for another reason?

Long story!

 

I need to remove the engine for a rebore but according to every workshop manual I have read they recommend removing the gearbox first to avoid damage to the clutch.  To remove the gearbox you need to separate the prop shaft u/j and to do that the rear spring pins have to be removed.  The axle can then be pulled back until the prop drops out.  Unfortunately the body has been mounted without sufficient packing under the valance and consequently the holes don't line up so the spring pins can't be knocked out.

 

At the moment I can't face getting into raising the body so I have only the option of unbolting the axle from the springs so that it can be jacked up and moved backwards.  I have not even contemplated enlarging the holes in the valance although that would be an option, if a moronic one.

 

Ray.

[Taylormade]

Oh, wow.  Sounds like what I have to do to get the transmission out of my 32 thanks to the Floating Power feature that makes it necessary to remove half the drivetrain to get to it.  Sounds like  unbolting the axle to move it back may be the only logical way.  Be careful, the axle bands were the only frame part I broke when i took my car apart.  Soak the bolts in penetrating oil and wire brush the visible threads before attempting to take them off.  Luckily, I found a place that made me new ones, but it was a pain.

[MikeC5]

If the threads look good on the axle U-bolts that would seem the easiest way.  I would heat up the nuts with a propane torch a bit to make sure it isn't rust locked.  I did check mine when I had the body off and they were able to turn.  Judging by the rust on the lower parts of the body on my car, I was surprised.  Hopefully, that is a good omen for you.

[TonyAus]

Looks like undoing the U bolts and moving the axle rearward is your next best option.  However, I suggest that you knock out two of the four rear shackle pins so the axle can drop rather than dragging it over the tops of the springs.  And don't forget to disconnect the brake rods first!

[R.White]

6 hours ago, TonyAus said:

Looks like undoing the U bolts and moving the axle rearward is your next best option.  However, I suggest that you knock out two of the four rear shackle pins so the axle can drop rather than dragging it over the tops of the springs.  And don't forget to disconnect the brake rods first!

 

I have already removed the brake rods but I wasn't planning on removing the rear shackles. Good idea, that.  Disconnecting the rear shackles will allow the springs to drop down from the axle so it can be rolled back enough to pull the torque tube apart without faffing about with a trolly jack!

 

One of the good things about this car (there are some!) is that being an Australian import there is no rust on it. The bolts look fine and with a wire brush and a good dosing of penetrating oil they should undo o.k.

 

Ray. 

Edited September 7, 2016 by R.White (see edit history)