1920's Buick owners, Check your hood fasteners!

[AzBob]

While driving the 1926-26 this morning, I heard a "tink" noise. Didn't think much more about it until I returned home and went to open the hood to turn off the gas, when I noticed I was missing a Hood Fastener!

 

Much to my surprise, I see threads and realize it had simply unscrewed from the spring housing.  A search ensued for the missing hood fastener. I retraced my route on foot as I had only gone two miles. To my relief, I found the missing hood fastener on the side of the road approx. 1/2 mile from my home no worse for the wear.

 

I found the other 3 hood fasteners loose as well. Needless to say, I have applied blue loctite and secured the hood fasteners tight on the spring housings. Lesson learned, check the hood fasteners for tightness. I had no idea they unscrewed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 7, 2016 by AzBob
spelling correction (see edit history)

[27donb]

Good advice, I just checked mine.

 

And while you mention the hood hold down hardware, where is the best place to get the rubber feet that push into the side of the hood?

 

I see Steele Rubber has them @ $6.00 each.

 

Any other sources?  Where did you get yours?

[AzBob]

Bob's Automobila Vol No. 61 page 57, has listed 1923-31 "Hood Latch pressure Pad" 5/16" high x 13/16" Dia. for $2.00 ea. 

 

Believe I will order a set myself . 

[Terry Wiegand]

Bob, thanks for the heads-up on this.  I'll check the cars for this condition.  I believe Restoration Supply has these hood latch bumpers also.  Check them out for the size.

 

Terry Wiegand

Doo Dah America

[Brian_Heil]

Hmmm.  All tight here in Michigan, but I did note the little rubber cushions are getting old and cracked.  Time to order new ones.  May see if a faucet washer from the hardware works cheaper and faster than Bob's.

[27donb]

7 hours ago, Brian_Heil said:

Hmmm.  All tight here in Michigan, but I did note the little rubber cushions are getting old and cracked.  Time to order new ones.  May see if a faucet washer from the hardware works cheaper and faster than Bob's.

 

I was wondering if these from McMaster-Carr would fit the bill, even though they only come in quantities of 10 or 25.

 

The seem to have the same dimensions as Steele Rubber products, 3/4" x 1/2" thick.

 

 

[Hubert_25-25]

AZ Bob,

Thanks for this post,  I was wondering how they plated these.  Now I know how they come apart.   Hugh

[dibarlaw]

In a pinch I used a cut off tubeless tire valve stem bottom since it had a recess for a washer. The McMaster Carr product looks good but since it mentions "Hard Rubber" it may not be very pliable.

[Brian_Heil]

I plan to go the McMaster route.  Stay tuned for my comments when they come in and thx 27donb.  May be a couple weeks.  Have a tour coming up prepping for.

[dibarlaw]

Brian :

 I am not concerned about the hood on my1925 flying off since it is still unresponsive. I am running out of things to re-do and trouble shoot. So far; new plugs, cleaned /reset points, compression check good, re-timed (twice), replaced condenser, replaced coil, re-checked the heat riser sleeve (no leaks) refit all the carb dashpot valve to venturi block according to Marvel book specs. I thought I had the culprit with a bent condenser lead shorting to the breaker plate. Fixed that and it ran great again.  I took it out for a ride and was barely able to get it back in the garage. Dead throttle and backfiring again.

So on tour we will be following you people at a respectful distance with our modern car.

[Brian_Heil]

Yikes.

 

What the heck could it be?

 

I once had a bad ballast resistor that drove me nuts. I feel share your frustration. We will find you a back seat if you desire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest 22Coupe]

I picked up the rubber ones from Bob's. The McMaster-Carr are too tall. If the rubber is really hard it won't compress some when you hook the latch and being too tall makes it worse. I picked up a second set from Bob's as over time one split from the compression but, still very usable. $2 each is cheap enough.

 

Cheers,

Gary

[Hubert_25-25]

TECH TIP - So I had the opposite problem.  How to unscrew the nickeled top from the spring barrel on the hood fastener.  I started with a piece of rubber in the jaws of my vise grips.  It kept slipping on the round barrel.  I then put a piece of coat hanger, or you could use a nail, in the hole in the barrel where the spring is oiled.  Then the vise grip did not need to be so tight since I created a temporary stop on the barrel.  I clamped the vise grips in a vise.  I thought I might break the ears off the nickel top piece, but I finally managed to spin it off.  You could also use this method to tighten them on and you will not mar the paint if done correctly.    For those who are luck enough to never have looked inside, here is a picture of the internal parts.  Hugh