64Rivvy Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 My rear power quarter windows aren't working at all and I want to test and fix them while I have the interior apart right now. Currently painting floors, have installed dynamat/stinger roadkill and am redoing carpeting, upholstery and panels. Is there a way to test the rear windows by bypassing the switches? I know I have power going to the back, I just want to rule out bad switches and figure out where the issue actually is.I have the full size laminated wiring diagram and shop manual, but am hoping someone has done this before and can give me some pointers. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Issue is probably all the old grease, dirt and whatever in your tracks. Mine did not work either but after cleaning they worked fine. You can test the switches with a meter and see if they work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 You can use a cordless drill battery or a battery booster box (jump box) Connect the positive to one of the wires to the motor and connect the negative to the body. Depending on which wire you connect the positive to the window will go up or down, switch to the other wire to get it to move the opposite direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Hi,I had problems with intermittent operation of the RHF window and vent switches on 63. I dismantled the switches and cleaned all contacts with a Dremel with wire wheel, re-assembled and all working fine. Have used same process for horn and headlamp wiring connections that had oxidised through age. Worth a try, good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 As mentioned, corrosion from age, seized or rusted pivot points, and poor electrical or ground connections are usually the culprits in power window malfunction. A little time and TLC will cure a lot of power window problems. The power window motors must also have a good chassis ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Power windows and power seats. Dried up 50 year old grease in the tracks and corrosion on the switches will be the cause of probably 90% of your problems. Your seat goes forward but it won't go back. Your wife is shorter than you so she moves the seat forward, you move it back to where you like it. That's the only part of the track where the grease doesn't harden. You try to move the seat back farther and it won't go. Clean the track and the screw drive and it goes back all the way. I had a glass guy tell me one time that the rear windows in a station wagon rarely quit working, but in coupes they wouldn't sork. Simple explanation was that the kids in the back seat continually used the windows and the grease never dried out and the switches never corroded. If you have a/c you probably don't roll down the back windows enough to keep them from drying out. It's a hardtop. "Hardtop it" every time you get in it. I'd be willing to wager that the non a/c equipped cars rarely have window problems. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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