'65 console restoration

[RIVNIK]

Greetings! Hope you all had a great Christmas & holiday.        Problem: I got my new console from cornpanzer not long ago. After stripping it of corroded accessories it turned out to be in near-perfect condition, complete with all it's tabs. I prepped it and now need advice on paint. How can I obtain as close to original (black) finish? I was hoping to get sufficient results from an over the counter shaker can, for a couple of reasons....the rest of the interior is in very good "driver" condition, so a show car finish is not necessary. Secondly, I am a bit of a skinflint and would like to avoid the expense of taking it to a paint shop. If anyone has experience in this area I would appreciate your advice.          thanks, Drew

[Guest Dantana]

Greetings! Hope you all had a great Christmas & holiday.        Problem: I got my new console from cornpanzer not long ago. After stripping it of corroded accessories it turned out to be in near-perfect condition, complete with all it's tabs. I prepped it and now need advice on paint. How can I obtain as close to original (black) finish? I was hoping to get sufficient results from an over the counter shaker can, for a couple of reasons....the rest of the interior is in very good "driver" condition, so a show car finish is not necessary. Secondly, I am a bit of a skinflint and would like to avoid the expense of taking it to a paint shop. If anyone has experience in this area I would appreciate your advice.          thanks, Drew

I used SEM Vinyl paint and SEM vinyl prep as well as some primer. Came out nice.

[lrlforfun]

OK Drew: Ditto on that SEM black. Don't be stingy with the coats either.   Mitch

[CTX-SLPR]

I used Krylon Fusion semi gloss on mine but I'd not recommend it.  It scratches pretty easily and I'm probably going the vinyl dye route before I put it back in for what I hope will be the last time... whenever that is.

[RIVNIK]

Thanks for the suggestions , men!  After a few days (just in case I get some more good tips) I will track down the SEM. I believe it is only available online. Seems like the way to go. I've always had good luck with Krylons finish but like the Texas Sleeper says it is not very durable unless clear coated and that usually changes the finish. thanks again!     Drew

[RivNut]

SEM is available where ever auto paints or upholstery is sold.  I can get it locally here at True Auto (an auto paint jobber - supplies paints to body shops) and National Fabric - supplier of upholstery to interior shops.  A quick Google search shows that the O'Reilly Auto Parts stores carry SEM products as well.

 

SEM used to produce TOPPER a vinyl dye that was water based and came in a 12 oz. can.  It was designed to dye vinyl tops but it was the greatest thing for dying leather and headliners (too much reducer from an aerosol will wilt a head lliner.)  On leather, you'd apply it with a foam brush, let it dry, take some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (dry) and smooth it out, then apply a second coat with a damp rag.  Talk about coverage.  Unbelievable.  Used  on vinyl tops to restore consistent color and hide vinyl repairs.  Great for padded dashes as well.  You didn't have to worry about over spray.  

 

SEM is great for upholstery because it has a flex agent in it, but it's not a replacement for paint on hard surfaces.  The consoles in the first generation cars are fiberglass - or something similar, and should be repainted as you would other hard surfaces.  If you have the console out and can spray it with an automotive grade paint with a hardener in it, you'll have the best results.  You can also spray a final clear coat on it, do some color sanding, then buff it and you'll have a good hard, shiny finish.

 

Ed 

Edited January 5, 2016 by RivNut (see edit history)

[lrlforfun]

OK Ed: Topper? I dyed many a V-T with it over the years. Today? I have NO cars with a vinyl top and I haven't even seen a vinyl top on a car in the flesh in a very long time...even here in the Bay Area.  Good tip on the leather. It's worth a try on a ragged out 63 Riv.  Mitch

[RivNut]

 

 

SEM used to produce TOPPER a vinyl dye

 

 

Ed 

Used to is the operative wording.  It disappeared along with the vinyl top.

[telriv]

Sorry to disagree Ed but the consoles are a plastic material NOT fiberglass.

[RivNut]

Sorry to disagree Ed but the consoles are a plastic material NOT fiberglass.

That's why I added the "or something similar" to my post.  I wasn't sure exactly what it was they were made of.   I take it that the consoles were a rather large injection molded product then. ???

[my first riv]

I agree with Ed on the finishing of first gen Rivs center consoles. You can get really reasonably priced single stage paint and have a great looking center console. That hard plastic takes paint really well. But if all you want is a rattle can finish for a driver grade car, that can also look pretty decent but won't hold up to as much hard wear as pro grade paint will. PPG sells a shop-line of paint that is really reasonably priced and really durable that produces a great shine, I painted a 1940 chevy coupe with that line a few years ago and it looked great with good gloss retention and easy to work with as well as very forgiving for a novice painter to work with. I think the entire car for final topcoat (single stage) was around $500. I'd spray it again in a heart beat and I've sprayed just about every line of paint manufacturer out there. Just my two cents worth.

 

Cheers 

Mark