Lebowski Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 What brain-dead idiot thought it would be a good idea to put the fuses on the back of the headlight switch way up under the dash? I need to replace the one that covers the tail lights, brake lights, dome light, etc. and I can't even see it with my head stuck up under the dash as far as it will go. Are you supposed to remove the fuse box/switch from under there just to replace a fuse? How can I replace it when I can't even see where it is? Please tell me how to do it before someone rear-ends me. Thanks in advance.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest newbymachineworks Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Never worked on an Edsel but drop switch out on of dash on a Falcon. Should be a push button on switch to release knob. Pull knob and rod out of switch, remove bezel and pull out of dash to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Never worked on an Edsel but drop switch out on of dash on a Falcon. Should be a push button on switch to release knob. Pull knob and rod out of switch, remove bezel and pull out of dash to the rear. Thanks for the info. I found a diagram for it in the factory shop manual on page 10-11. It looked easy enough so I went out to see if I could do it myself. I removed the junction block from the main light switch but didn't know that the fuses were in the junction block since they were on the top and I was under it. I continued on to do what you suggested which turned out to be completely unnecessary since there was no reason for me to pull out the control knob and shaft, remove the bezel and remove the main light switch but I didn't figure that out until it was out. I removed the bad fuse and replaced it with a new one and then everything went downhill from there. After reinstalling the main light switch by attaching the bezel to it I inserted the headlight control knob and shaft which was supposed to click into the main light switch but it wouldn't click into it. I twisted it in several directions, loosened up the bezel to see if that made any difference, pushed, pulled and twisted it many different ways for about 20 minutes until I gave up and decided that since I never drive it at night I don't really need the headlights anyway. Then I tried to plug the junction block back into the main light switch but they wouldn't attach to each other. I finally removed the bezel and dropped down the main headlight switch and plugged that into the junction block and attached them to the bezel. I spent several more minutes trying to get the control shaft and knob to click into the main light switch without success so I reattached the negative battery cable to see if my dome light, tail lights and brake lights were working and they were NOT. So after an hour and a half of lying on my back with my head against the clutch pedal my back was killing me so I decided that was enough for one day. Instead of accomplishing anything I now have no headlights to go along with no tail lights, brake lights or dome light. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capngrog Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Your experience with the Edsel's electrical system sounds all too familiar. I HATE doing anything under/behind a dash because it seems that there are so many hidden fasteners or components that require the mechanical equivalent of a "secret handshake" to access and remove. Everything is jammed together and it seems as though nothing is mounted or installed as logic would seem to dictate. With that said, my advice to you is to pause, take a break of sufficient duration, and then try again. With each attempt will come more knowledge/familiarity with how things are arranged, and eventually, you will prevail. Also, don't forget to ask for help from your friends. Good luck,Grog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest newbymachineworks Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the info. I found a diagram for it in the factory shop manual on page 10-11. It looked easy enough so I went out to see if I could do it myself. I removed the junction block from the main light switch but didn't know that the fuses were in the junction block since they were on the top and I was under it. I continued on to do what you suggested which turned out to be completely unnecessary since there was no reason for me to pull out the control knob and shaft, remove the bezel and remove the main light switch but I didn't figure that out until it was out. I removed the bad fuse and replaced it with a new one and then everything went downhill from there. After reinstalling the main light switch by attaching the bezel to it I inserted the headlight control knob and shaft which was supposed to click into the main light switch but it wouldn't click into it. I twisted it in several directions, loosened up the bezel to see if that made any difference, pushed, pulled and twisted it many different ways for about 20 minutes until I gave up and decided that since I never drive it at night I don't really need the headlights anyway. Then I tried to plug the junction block back into the main light switch but they wouldn't attach to each other. I finally removed the bezel and dropped down the main headlight switch and plugged that into the junction block and attached them to the bezel. I spent several more minutes trying to get the control shaft and knob to click into the main light switch without success so I reattached the negative battery cable to see if my dome light, tail lights and brake lights were working and they were NOT. So after an hour and a half of lying on my back with my head against the clutch pedal my back was killing me so I decided that was enough for one day. Instead of accomplishing anything I now have no headlights to go along with no tail lights, brake lights or dome light. Any suggestions?Getting the knob back in can be a trick. Try pushing the release button while pushing knob in, it should go in. Try it with the switch out to get the hang of it first. Edited December 9, 2015 by newbymachineworks (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 I tried replacing the fuse again and it blows before I can even get it in all the way so I guess that means that I have a wiring problem somewhere. When I installed the radio last week I noticed a spark when I was wiring it up so I thought the radio may have been the cause so I removed it and it blew the next fuse I tried to put in. I looked around for loose wires that could be causing the problem but didn't see any so now what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob Call Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Sounds like there is a bare wire somewhere that is grounded and as soon as you complete the circuit with a fuse it overloads the fuse. Start searching. If you put in a fuse big enough not to "blow" or bypass the fuse you can have a serious fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Electrical gremlins. Hate'em. Check each accessory on that fuse indivdiual for your short to ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roysboystoys Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Start by disconnecting the license plate lights. If the fuse still blows , go to trunk light , then glove box light , hood light,parking light until you find the one causing the problem. If there is a junction block to the rear lights , unplug it to isolate the rear from front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttotired Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Auto sparky help might get things moving With the headlight switch knob, as said above, push the release button while inserting the rod and put a spot of lube on it (that sounds dirty ), it might take a wiggle or 2, but it should click back in To trace out the short circuit, here is the trick, get one of your old, blown fuses and solder 1 wire to each end, so you have 2 wires coming of the fuse The other ends, connect them to an old (working) headlight, preferably the high beam side (3 terminals on an old sealed beam, high beam are the 2 opposite each other) Now, when you fit that fuse into the fuse box, it will make the light come on bright, now go around carefully moving wiring and stuff about, while watching the headlight, when you find/remove the short, the headlight will go dull You need to just move the wiring a small amount and watch carefully because you dont want to move the entire harness and loose the short and not know where it was The other thing, is dont make a rookie mistake (like I did as an apprentice) and sit that light on the carpet, it gets hot and will melt the carpet quite well Being that this is a ford (Sorry, never personally seen an edsel) I assume the interior light switches (in the door) have 2 wires to them and that makes the interior lights positively switched, so look around the kick panels and see if its there You put a radio in, you said you removed it, did you dis connect it? Did you put an antenna in as well? If so, perhaps a screw has trapped a wire (in the kick panel)? As it blows the fuse strait away, apart from the interior light, the short can only be on the power inlet to the other circuits (eg, the brake lights, switch is not activated, so no power will be trying to pass through it) The short could be in any part of the interior light circuit, because (I bet) the whole time you were working on it, you had the door open, closing the door switch contacts, you need to pop the door switch out (or at least push the switch button in) while your testing You can forgo the headlight trick if you want, but never put a bigger fuse in and every time you try to fit a fuse, your overheating the circuit and may cause more harm Best of luck Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlCapone Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 With all due respect, it might be time to seek the assistance of a professional before you butm your car up. I am serious and not trying to be funny. Sounds like you might be in over your head! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Unhook the battery and take the seat out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 I'll try some of those ideas tomorrow except for taking the seat out. What purpose would that serve? Thank you for taking the time to try to help me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rjones Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Taking the seat out gives you room to lay in the floor much more comfortably! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlCapone Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Taking the seat out gives you room to lay in the floor much more comfortably!And you can manouver much more easily. Follow Jack M's advice! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940TORPEDO Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Seat out is much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Here is another trick that I use.Get a piece of plywood about two feet wide (maybe less) and 5 to 8 ft long. Lay it on the floorboard under the steering wheel and hanging out kind of parallel to the door. Use jack stands or other props on the shop floor.Now you can lay on your back on this bed of sorts, its easier than taking the seat out but not quite as comfortable. Edited December 10, 2015 by JACK M (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 I have a stool about the same level as the rocker panel so I just sit on it and rest my back on the floor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 Getting the knob back in can be a trick. Try pushing the release button while pushing knob in, it should go in. Try it with the switch out to get the hang of it first. That was the tip I needed, Newby. I put it back together and have brake and tail lights now. I'm going to put all the details of what I did in the next post. Thanks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 (I bet) the whole time you were working on it, you had the door open, closing the door switch contacts, you need to pop the door switch out (or at least push the switch button in) while your testing When I read that a light went on in my head. I removed the door switch button and pulled the two wires out of it and inserted the fuse and it didn't blow. Thank you for that tip. I put the headlight switch back together successfully thanks to a tip from Newby so I have brake and tail lights now. I never drive the car at night anyway so I don't really need the dome light I guess. Plus the kick panels appear to be glued in so I didn't want to remove them because they appear to be similar to cardboard and I didn't want to risk damaging them. I still don't understand why they put the fuses way up there on the back of the headlight switch but at least now I know how to access them if I ever have another fuse problem. Thanks to all who offered advice and solutions.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttotired Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Glad to help It keeps these classics going Dis connecting the door switch has removed the short, have a look in your interior lights themselves (pull the globes out) and look for the short If you have recently changed the bulb in one, look at its contacts You would be surprised at how many short circuits I have fixed by fitting the correct bulb Edited December 10, 2015 by Ttotired (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GK1918 Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 I may have miss read this, but a fused headlite switch? All M.E.Lincolns I've worked on has breakers. Acc. vanity group options arefused. I have the same problem on a 59 Continental, as the lights are possessed, they go out come back on thats a weak breaker thatis part of the switch plus it has Autronic Eye that takes some juice. On this there is absolutely no way to get ya hand up there with allthose air conditioning ducts 500 miles of wires. Do you know these have a computer / univac type heat and air system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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