[Advice] Helping neighbor bleed the brakes on his early 50s Belvedere

[Guest FLguy2020]

Hello all,

 

My neighbor has a work in progress restoration project on an early 1950s Belvedere. The car is operational but the brakes need to be bled according to my neighbor.

 

Neither of us know the proper way to handle this task or if we will need any specialized tools. I've been doing research on the internet and haven't found any solid info to insure this task will go smoothly.

 

I read somewhere that I would benefit from purchasing some Line Wrenches for this project? Are there any other suggested tools for handling this particular job? ((The only tools I have are just the basics, ratchet set etc))

 

Thanks for any info you fellas can offer. Eager to have a go at this project and learn some things along the way.

[keiser31]

Always ADJUST the shoes PRIOR to bleeding the brakes or it will be to no avail. You might go to YouTube and see if there are any helps there. Do you have a shop manual?

Edited October 17, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[Guest FLguy2020]

Do you have a shop manual?

 

Cheers, I didn't even think of attaining a shop manual.

 

I've been searching online and have found the 1955-56 Plymouth Service Manual, reading through it, it appears to be applicable to the Belvedere.

 

However, I believe the car is a '54. Do you know if the systems in those years were different from the 55-56 models?

 

I only ask because I am having difficulty finding a free manual online for the '54.

 

Thanks again, this was a big help.

Edited October 18, 2015 by FLguy2020 (see edit history)

[61polara]

Tell you neighbor that your fee for your services is for him to purchase a shop manual.  It discribes how to bleed and adjust the brakes and many other things he need to know.  That way both of you will save a lot of time and it should be done right.

[keiser31]

The brakes should be the same for all of the early '50s Plymouths.

[Joe Cocuzza]

1- Make sure the master cylinder is topped off with brake fluid

2- Have someone sit in the car and pump the brakes several times and then hold the pedal to the floor

3 - While the pedal is held to the floor someone else go to any one of the 4 wheels and open the bleeder screw (1/4") and let the air/fluid come out

     (you can put a small hose over the bleeder valve to run the fluid into a bottle to avoid a mess) You can use a 1/4" box wrench.

4 - After the air/fluid comes out of that 1st bleeder valve, tighten the valve and repeat the process until mostly or only fluid comes out. It make take several times for the air to be bled out.

5 - Do this to all 4 wheels and always make sure the master cylinder is not low on fluid or you'll just be putting more air into the system

Note: As you bleed each wheel cylinder the brake pedal should become firmer and higher.

6 - Once all the cylinders are bled - I believe that there are 2 cylinders on each front wheel (upper and lower) and you are satisfied that the air is out of the system

     refill the master cylinder and put the cap back on before testing the pedal

 

There is an easier way to do this, too.

You can go to any Auto Supply store and buy a reasonably priced ($20-$25) vacuum bleeder kit

This makes bleeding the brakes a one-man operation.

Basically what you do is fill the master cylinder, hook up the vacuum pump to each bleeder valve, open the bleeder valve, let the vacuum pump "pull" the air out of the system.

Do this to all the wheel cylinders. The vacuum pump takes the place of the person pumping/holding the brake pedal.

[keiser31]

Also make certain that you start the wheel cylinder bleeding at the farthest cylinder from the master cylinder. Start at the right rear, then left rear, then the right front and finally the left front.

[countrytravler]

Fly me over,I'll do the job!

Edited October 18, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history)

[Chrycoman]

Yes, the brakes are basically the same from 1946 through 1956.  

 

The rear wheels have one wheel cylinder per side and the fronts have two - one for each brake shoe with one located on the top and one on the bottom.

 

Use a hose to cover the bleeder on one end with the other in a pool of brake fluid in a container (jar).   The purpose of the hose and jar is prevent air being sucked back into the wheel cylinder.  Makes the job a little easier.

 

The bleeder has a nipple on it where you can attach the hose while the other end of the bleeder is threaded to fit into the cylinder,  Between the two sections is what looks like a nut, but it is all part of the bleeder.  The 'nut' is what you turn to open the bleeder to let the brake fluid out and then tighten to prevent fluid escaping and air getting into the cylinder.  Loosen the bleeder just enough to let the fluid out. 

 

You can use a line wrench or a closed end wrench.  It is important as either will prevent rounding the 'nut' on the bleeder

 

And the best way to bleed them is to start with the farthest out from the master cylinder and end at the closest - RR, LR, RF, LF.  On the front wheels, bleed the lower cylinder first. 

 

The one major difference between the 1946-54 models and the 1955-56 is the master cylinder.  The 1955-56 models have the master cylinder under the hood while the earlier models were under the floor.  If you pull back the mat on the driver's side there should be a small panel held in place by a screw.  Removing that panel should reveal the master cylinder. 

[Guest FLguy2020]

Thanks again for all of this information! Hoping to be able to have a go at it tomorrow.

 

I appreciate you clarifying the use of the bleeder drain hose. I read in the shop repair manual that the hose should be used but it was worded to appear that it's use was just for a tidy way to collect fluid without spills. Definitely going to be using a drain tube submerged in a bottle.

[JACK M]

This is all good info.

Let me add that you may want to remove the bleeder valves before you start to be sure the they are clear. you cant bleed thru a clogged valve.

The vacuum method suggested can be troublesome as they tend to pull air past the threads of the loose bleeder valve. I have wrapped the threads with that white pipe tape with good results, but even with this patch it is not uncommon to get bubbles in with the fluid being drawn out making it look like there is still air in the line.