1928fb Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) Hi Everyone, I got the upper block off of the engine I found last fall. It was stuck so I took the head off and pored transmission fluid in each cylinder over the winter. It worked good but still needed a wood block and mallet to do the job. The engine in the car turns good but has a crack on the right side water jacket outer wall. I am going to use the upper block of the new engine and the lower block from the one in the car. The clutch in the car works, the one on the new engine is rusty from sitting out. I have had this car for 15 years and have found most parts. Still looking for a few. My next move is to find a machine shop to hot tank and check for cracks in the upper block and head. I will also need to check the cylindersto see if I can find pistons and rings, valves and springs. Any though or suggestions ? Edited May 26, 2015 by 1928fb (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Here are some pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Commander Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Hi 1928 FBLooks like a 1922 Special Six to me. Make sure to check you barrels and head closely for cracks. I have talked to numerous guys in the snow areas that have lots of trouble finding any parts that are not cracked due to its age, internal rusting and water left in the blocks. Once you check out your parts for cracks ... let us know what was found. I have found that new Special Six rings are a little tuff to find unless you get them with a new piston set.While you are at it, have your machine shop check the bores to see what size they are and if it possible to bore it at all. What is wrong with the valves. Can they be repaired? Can the block be re-cut? Make sure to check the old valves for being bent and also check the condition of the valve guide.The valves will bend and wear out the guides. Attached is a picture of my 1922 Special Six The CommanderRick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks Rick for your suggestions. I took the valves out yesterday and marked them. I hope to get it down to the machine shop this week along with the head. I like your car a lot . I had A picture of it on the wall of my business for years along with others . Thanks Again, Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Nice pics, people tell me that cracks can been fixed, had a cousin in Milwaukee that had a metal stitching company, would travel around fixing large engines that were cracked on very large ships that traveled the great lakes and oceans. I am lucky I have a big six with no problems. The engine breaks down into three parts does the big six do the same? very nice special six, just got my EK and am in a learning faze. you may have the smaller engine. looking for a 1923 big six to play with. took the EK for a ride today all seems well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Hi Ken, The big & special 6 engines are the same engine with a few differences. The upper block has a larger bore for the big 6. Also the heads are different. Glad to hear that you are able to drive yours. Mine will be a while. I sold my three 1928 FB Presidents 4 door sedans I loved to drive when I move to town . I have the M5 almost done I drive 1951 commander and 58 silver hawk .Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Hi 28fb, Contact Dave,, He found all sorts of parts for my motor when I was in need of help. He's a really good guy and is amazing at what he can find. Good luck and keep us informed on your progress. Earl Dave Thibault13 Nick LaneMaynard, Ma. 01754978--897--3158 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) What model vacuum tank does your car have? Mine was mutilated, and even so, I'm not sure it's the one that came on the car. Thanks, Earl Edited June 1, 2015 by Earl B. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) Have a collection of vacuum tanks, mostly 4 bolt Stewart Warner have one 8 bolt. On the 8 bolt the internal parts seem to be the same (float etc) as other 8 bolts tanks. Cars like the Packard had very large outer tanks but seemed to have the same internal parts, basically an 8 bolt unit. My 23 EK has an 8 bolt SW 117-1 tank. My extra 8 bolt is the same size but has ribs where the bands that mount the unit go, my 23 is smooth on the outside from top to bottom. Some of my 4 bolt tanks have ribs some not. Seems to me that the inside workings of the 8 bolt units are the same. most of the time you cannot read any markings on the top used for identification. Love them vacuum tanks, they work great and are easy to maintain. Edited June 1, 2015 by 1927Chevy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi Earl ,Thank you for the information about Dave and parts. My car had no tank when I bought it . Thanks Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I've been holding on to this vacuum tank as a spare but would be willing to sell it. Overall in nice shape with no stuck parts and all threads in good shape. The pot metal top shows no deterioration. The float mechanism works, each valve opens and closes and, based on using my highly sophisticated tester (mouth), seals and opens properly. The proper sized brackets I found are each highly corroded on one end. I would like $100 which includes shipping. Scottsmrdeza@lentel.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 One of the challenges I faced with my Light Six engine was that the pistons were significantly worn in the compression ring grooves which had a ring-to-groove clearance of 0.015" vs the 0.0015" spec. My bores were slightly worn but still very serviceable and I didn't want to spend thousands on boring the block, buying custom pistons and new rings. I solved this issue very reasonably by working with Dave Reed from Otto Gas Engine Works (http://www.ringspacers.com/). Dave set me up with some 0.030" hardened ring spacers and all new rings that have an overlap step vs the straight butt ends (reduces blowby). I had a local machine shop cut my piston compression ring grooves 0.030" over the stock width specification resulting in a 0.0015" ring-to-groove side clearance once I installed the rings and spacers. I also had a little wear in the cylinder (and a very slight taper that I could live with) so I used 0.015" oversized rings and filed the end gaps to get proper clearance in the narrowest part of the bore. My pistons were designed with 3/16" thick rings and fairly shallow depth ring grooves. Somehow Dave was able to find the correct rings and had several options of oversize rings. He was able to bore the ring IDs to make up for the shallow ring grooves - really a great guy to work with and the costs were very reasonable. I also drilled the pistons for oil control behind the oil control rings as my pistons were made prior to this being a design standard. Although I could have probably removed them, I left the original #4 rings on the base of the skirt. He are a couple of pictures of the parts. The first is the rings and spacer stack for one piston. Note that the spacers go above the compression and scraper rings. The second photo is the piston with everything installed with all the end gaps shown for photo purposes.Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Here is an update on my retirement project. I removed the valves, valve guides, push rods,and springs. Today I drove to the auto machine shop and dropped off the upper block and head.The guys including the owner were glad to see something different and said the hot tanking and checking for cracks would be about a week to 10 days.The shop is in a small town in the country. They have done good work for me before. So now I will wait to see if I can continue with this block and head.Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Up date 6/29/15Hi I received some good news about the upper block there are no cracks.Last week I found the head was cracked ,So I brought the 1923 head that came off the good block To check.I will find out about that one in the next few days.Now I will need to find Pistons & Rings, Valves & springs Valve guides To Begin with. If you have any of these parts let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I found a set of pistons and rods but I'm not sure if they are Special Six or Big Six. They measure 3.87" diameter at the base of the skirt and are 4.7" tall. Other than being dusty and just a little surface rust they are in really nice shape including the rings and ring grooves. I also found a brand new set of Toledo valves but the box is marked Big Six. They measure 1.714" dia at the head, .372" stem dia, and about 6-7/8" overall length. They are all stamped 221.Let me know if any of this will work for you.Scottsmrdeza@lentel.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 HIi Scott, Thank you for the reply to this post. The special 6 pistons are 3.50 diameter and the 3.87 are big 6.The valves I have the head diameter is 1.875 the stem diameter is .372( Same as yours) the length is 6.50. I do not think they will work.The machine shop is checking on what it will take to clean up the cylinders. Thanks again Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) Hi I got good news on the head so both the head and upper block were Magnafluxed and cleaned.So I brought them home untell I can find parts . I painted the head and water manifold. I also am Painting the upper block In & ex manifolds.The Picture of the upper block is the one I am replacing No need to Mag that one.Phil Edited July 2, 2015 by 1928fb (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 That's Great!! u don't have an extra generator do you?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Sorry, I do not have another generator, But will keep an eye open for one.Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Hi I am Cleaning & painting the fuse box and there are no fuses in it . I looked in the service manual for what amp they are but could not find it there. Does any one know what they should be. There are 5. Tail light, Extra,Horn, Head Light L & Head light R. Any help would be appreciated.Thanks Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) Philmy care and operation manual of the series 23 big six page 22 states "always be sure the new fuse is of the proper rating- six volts , ten amperes" . I have not looked in my car nor have I installed any yet.Ken Edited July 6, 2015 by 1927Chevy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 (edited) Hi, Here is what I have been doing while I look for parts.I found valves, valve guides,and valve springs from EGGE.They are out of pistons, but can make them for around $200.00 Per piston. Phil Edited July 20, 2015 by 1928fb (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Phil check this out Ken http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/pts/5126624902.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeboy Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 The craigslist listing is for a late 1923 or 1924 light six. As it has a nickel plated radiator it is probably 1924. The light six is not the same as the EL. I don't believe anything would interchange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeboy Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 (edited) I looked at the ad pictures again and the engine is not a light six in the ad. It is probably a dictator engine because it has the water port into the tin engine side cover. The light six goes into the block below the cover. It also has a closed bell housing/ Who knows what all the parts fit. The cowl is definitely a light six item. Edited July 20, 2015 by studeboy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Phil check this out Ken http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/pts/5126624902.htmlHi Ken, Thank you for the craigslist link. It was interesting to look at, but I think it is a light 6. The engine I think is late 20's. I have most of the parts for the car. I need Some over size pistons at a good price so I can have it bored to clean up the cylinders . Thanks Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 I looked at the ad pictures again and the engine is not a light six in the ad. It is probably a dictator engine because it has the water port into the tin engine side cover. The light six goes into the block below the cover. It also has a closed bell housing/ Who knows what all the parts fit. The cowl is definitely a light six item. Hi Studeboy, Thank you for your input I think you are correct . Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 The engine in the craigslist as is at least 1930 as it has the plugs in pairs. Up to then they were more evenly spaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Hey Guys! those tires are my size and I wanted some wood spokes for my 1923 EK, promise to leave the disc on but once and a while want wood Will they fit my 1923?Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 No, those are Light Six wheels and won't fit a Big Six without modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Stude Light are the big six wood wheels the ones with the unusual rear spoke , has rounded potion mid spoke rear Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Since I don't own or have access to a Big Six I don't have first hand knowledge. The spokes for all the 1923 models look similar in photos and in the parts manual. The hubs, bearings, axles, spindles, etc. are the biggest difference and why you can't just swap wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 This is my 1947 M5 I have also been working on That was in the earlier photos. I found it in a field no engine or transmission no seat and much more.I am near the end the engine runs great and I replaced all the parts that were needed.I need to get the glass in and the doors on and I will be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 very nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Hi, I am looking for a chain guard that bolts below the damper for my 1922 special 6. Thanks Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Hi These pictures are before and after I painted the hood.That was a lot of time and sanding. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1927Chevy Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 What color for fenders etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1928fb Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hi Ken. The fenders will be black.The body will be the same hunter green as the hood. The windshield frame and post will be black.The splash guard and frame covers will be black. The disk wheels will be black with the lock ring hunter green. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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