dmgoulet Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Since I have been getting more involved with following postings online here at AACA, I thought it would be good to show my project progression. Here are some photos. The black & white multiple pictures is back in 1963ish when my dad replaced the original engine with a 286 Chevy small block I am the younger of the two boys. Then a photo of the engine sitting in the frame... My dad and I made the rear supporting crossmember from parts (some from another AACA member). I rebuilt this engine (1948 model 230 cid) while I was in the USAF) Then a photo of my frame just after returning from being powder coated. It looks just awesome! Then a photo of the engine back in the frame. Then another photo of the crossmember my dad and I made but looking at it from underneath. And finally a picture of the inside of the cab sitting on the frame showing transmission fit... I think it will work out alright. Ive got the cab back off the frame. I have a newer bellhousing that I need to modify to fit the correct foot-starter pedal so that it aligns right with the starter. ************************ Now for a Question!!!! ******************** I set the running board on its perches and am wondering about the straps coming from the 'skirt' to the top of the frame. It looks like they should line up with some holes in the top of the frame (they're off a bit)... did these bolt directly to the frame with rubber padding? Any info is greatly appreciated. The last picture should be of the running board on the frame. Thanks, Dennis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Nice Job Dennis. Are you talking about the running board sitting on the supports from the frame to the boards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Dave, I guess they are called 'skirts' that are just inboard of the running board and go upward ( hiding the frame ). If you look at my last photo, about halfway down the 'skirt' upper edge there is a strap that overlaps the top of the frame. and at the very end (where the rear fender will meet) there is another strap. The middle strap nearly lines up with a hole in the top of the frame. I am assuming this would 'mount' here somehow (bushing? rubber pads?) but not sure since these were never connected (just dangling) ever since I got the truck. The back strap isnt long enough to reach the frame. Did it mount to something else? Both straps have about a 1" hole at the end that would meet up with something. Hope you can see what Im talking about! Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Just looked at mine and they are the same, being the second series is kind of put together from other vehicles, I think the running boards and splash guards are the same as 33 Plymouth, It could be they hook up on the Plymouth frame, Mine are like yours just there not hooked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Great! Thanks. Kinda strange that nothing was done to either connect the straps or eliminate them. Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Those straps do absolutely nothing that I can see. Mine were rusted and I had a guy weld on new ones and extend them while he filled the splash aprons. I didn't know what I would need so extending them seemed the way to go. When I got to putting the aprons back on the frame I discovered they connected to nothing at all. I ended up cutting them back until they just sat on the frame and left them. Anybody out there know what they were intended for? If they were squashed between the body,the body mounting filler strap and the frame top, they MIGHT be considered part of the splash apron mounting. Yes,no,maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Thanks for the info. It would be interesting to see if any other vehicle using these aprons had utilized the straps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 They go to the body mount. From our 34 Dodge pickup that were put together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) Dave,Is the apron on the 34, and 35 first series, the same as 35 second series?Since the cab on second series is different and mounts different, there was no where to hook them up, so the just left them dangling?Interesting. Thanks daveJesse Edited May 26, 2015 by 30dodge35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 I thought older vehicles would be less complicated!!! <grin> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I thought older vehicles would be less complicated!!! <grin>Go work on a 2015 anything from a VW to a Gulf stream Jet. Then come back and comment. HEHE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 I know!!! My 97 Dakota is complicated... but heck, I worked on F-16s... with good documentation and the right tools anything can be worked on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 My uncle use to work on 104s, Take that and go work on a B1B. The stories that he would tell. Language not good!!! No thanks. And how often does the company supply you with the correct tools? I use to work in Ford experimental lab and half the time, the correct tools were not available. We started to do the EEC system and we would pull our hair out to try and diag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Hello Dennis, Why did you add the additional cross member support under the tranny? DId the '35 not have the bell housing frame mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 Dave... exactly. My point is that there is little documentation available (with illustrations) for these antique vehicles. And there are fewer and fewer grease monkeys from the Era with the knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 Surf City,the Second Series KC used the rear mount like my truck has. I am unsure as to the reason for the crossmember that is just forward of the bell housing. The earlier series KC had the rear crossmember that was crossed above the trans just aft of the bell housing. I assume the later style was more serviceable than the earlier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Mine was removed when I got truck,it had a hemi in it, I had to find it and reinstall it, when I went back to original powertrain, I modified it so I could remove it during engine changes, I think it was put in there between transmission and engine to support the frame from cracking. Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 My spalsh apron straps were not that bad off and they had no large stamped holes in them like those in the photos. I think they may have been used in cars to mount in the body mount bolt position. Those bolt positions don't exist on my KCL. But it came originally as a cowl and chassis. This may explain the lack of holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Ok, I'm working on fitting the running boards to the frame... I had to rework the brackets that support the running boards as the front ones were angling down about an inch or so. Before getting the front fenders into position I need to secure the bracket that is under the radiator and that the fender supports mount to. Is there any insulators between the frame and this bracket or any kind of spacer? I noticed that there is supposed to be some sort of felt strip that runs along the top edge of the running board skirt. Is it mostly to stop metal to metal contact with the bottom of the cab? Also, since my running boards are warped and splitting in the middle, I bought some reproductions that look just awesome. The original are connected to the skirt with some sort of rivet. Would one recommend pop rivets as a replacement or recommend something else?Thanks on advance for advice.Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
multiscepter Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Regarding those straps, just a hunch, could they be intended to minimize rattle and/or flexing of the running board?John Edited May 31, 2015 by multiscepter (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 It's kinda bugging me about those straps... if not utilized on the 2nd Series KC, what did they connect to on the 1st Series? The frame is the same (except for maybe cab mounts) as well as the fenders and running boards. Inquiring minds MUST know!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 I've been working on a solution to using a foot activated starter as the original had. I didnt have any of the original parts (as usual). I did have a bell housing that was from a later model, however the foot starter it had was much different (for a different cab). I located a foot starter, and a starter motor (both off of a 33 dodge engine). I started by shaving off the pivot point on the later model bell housing because it was in the approximate location that the base of the '33 starter pedal needed to be. I made a U bracket to cradle the starter pedal. Ive got to get the cab back in place and determine the travel needed for the pedal. I think i will need to make longer linkages between the starter shift fork and the starter pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 That looks great! Will the cab/firewall clear the starter pedal? Just curious if it aligns with a slot in the firewall... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) Thanks.It does fit in the slot on the floorboard above the hole for the shift lever. I think it is standing a bit too upright which is why I may need to make longer linkages. Edited June 19, 2015 by dmgoulet (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Bracket look good, sometimes you have to engineer fixes on some of these, The second series is unique in it was only built for 6 months, I don't think the running boards and apron on second series is the same as first, Dave might know for sure, I will need to ask hotrod Charlie, or bryan , They would know for sure, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Does anyone make aftermarket clutch fork boots? Or will I need to make something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 I just parted out a 1935-2 Dodge KCL pick up.Some pictures. Just learned that 5 cab to frame bolts are spring loaded. the driver side front uses a straight bolt and nut. Maybe this will solve the splash apron mounting question. Truck has never been apart from what I have seen. The frame is going by by if anybody needs additional info-pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Great info Dave. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Great pictures A lot of good parts for 35 KCJesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 (edited) Not a whole lot of progress, but some none-the-less. Got the driveshaft rebuilt (again managed to find enough parts to build one). I also actually had the wrong front engine support bracket... I think it was from a plymouth. Instead of a flat top edge, it was rounded down forming a cradle. I had a makeshift front mount that I made many moons ago that wasnt right either. I cut the top section off of that one and spliced it into the top of the plymouth one. Not perfect, but it will work just fine. Dennis Note: pay no attention to my messy garage... its about one car width too small, and too many projects going on. Edited July 14, 2015 by dmgoulet (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looking good, my frame is like yours curved plate at crossover, the one Dave has in his other post must be a later serial number Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 He explained that the KCL extra length I'd at that point...thus the longer plates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looking good, my frame is like yours curved plate at crossover, the one Dave has in his other post must be a later serial number Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Awhile back there was discussion about the clutch torque shaft mount on the front face of the bell housing. This is what I put together. It looks like it will work just fine. Maybe even stylish enough for the era? Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Dennis looks pretty close to what I have on mine, except mines flat on block , it will work, That the problem with that part, people pull engines and it goes with engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Does anyone know where to get the ignition coil lock switch and cable that would work in my truck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 We have a bunch. I would have to see an example of one. None of these are marked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 (edited) I know it needs to be around 12 to 14 inches long, and the hole in the dash is 1". I cannot see how the key switch secures to the dash face. Maybe a nut on the face like a aftermarket switch or maybe secured to the instrument cluster bracket. The bracket has a 1" hole for the key switch with a keyway notch at the bottom. Edited August 18, 2015 by dmgoulet (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 I'm confused now. I was commenting about the key switch for the coil. Not sure where the running board/skirt topic came into play ☺ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Someone had a post about the tabs for the splash apron. Went to check and its gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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