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My '35 KC 2nd Series restoration


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Oh yeah that was a few weeks ago we were discussing that.

Anyway, Dave, do you have the ignition coil lock and cable similar to what I described a few posts up? If so, what are you asking for it?

Dennis

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  • 1 year later...

Hey all,

I have started aligning body panels/parts now that I believe I have my cab sitting correctly on the frame.  Using two 7/8" ash boards on each front side of the cab (4 boards total) and one 1/4" oak board at the rear cab mount pads, I have about 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the bottom sill of the cab. 

 

According to the parts manual, the Front Fender Crossbar (613995) is mounted to the front crossmember with bolts (600553) and shims (604741).   What I have for the shims are flat metal stock about 1/8" thick and have no number on them.

 

When the radiator assembly is put in place and the front fenders are bolted in place, I am running into some fitting problems.  The lower 1/2 distance of the hood side panels rubs against (and nearly overlap) the lip where it meets the cab.  The top panels fit fine, and since the radiator has some position adjustment, the hood panels mate up fine.  It appears the whole front assembly needs to come up about another 1/8", but Im not sure 'where' the space needs to be added.

 

1.  Since the holes in the fenders for the bumper mounts is nearly spot-on, raising the Crossbar would affect that. 

2.  If I add shims in-between the Crossbar and the Radiator mount, that may affect how the fenders meed up with the Grill housing.

 

 

Does anyone have information on what is supposed to be installed for aligning this?   

Are the shims for the Crossbar just 1/8" flat stock like I have?

Is there supposed to be shims between the Radiator mounting bracket and the Crossbar?

 

Has anyone else resolved this issue and care to elaborate?

 

Thanks Much

 

Dennis.

 

Ive attached some photos to show the parts. 

 

 

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Thx... I'll try fitting with thicker shim between crossbar and frame... and see where that puts the alignment of the hood sides.   Original factory parts diagrams would make this much easier.   scanning thru a large  list of parts and determining they are for my truck model is grueling.

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You may not find breakdown ,. The second series was only built 6 months, It was a truck in transition to the 36,. We find with all model changes during production, especially in early years with Engineers always trying to improve 

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A bit of progress on the alignment.   The original metal shims (as seen on bolts in previous post) is about 1/4".   I kept that in-between the crossbar and the fram.  I added another 1/4" shim betwen the radiator mount bracket and the crossbar (where the radiator mount 'studs' go thru the crossbar.    I'll re-install a fender tomorrow and see if it looks like it will align better.

 

Dennis

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been getting some things completed.

 

Clutch fork boot:  Made a snap in ring from some thick sheet metal and found a pattern online to make the boot using g black leather.

 

Welded holes and mating surfaces on clutch and brake pedal linkages and re-drilled/machined to operate smoothly.  My dad machined a new shaft for the pedals and machined pedal bushings to solid-up the pedals.

 

I fabricated some new front cab wood mounts from 7/8" ash board.  Using two on each side (stacked) gave me a 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the lower lip of the cab.  Using 1/4" oak shims at the rear cab mounts squared things up.   It does look like my rear crossmember is holding the trans up too high into the cab... I will need to lower it... which means my clutch torque shaft pivot bracket will need to be modified.  The joy of it all!!!

 

I did crank the engine over via the foot starter pedal... good to see that I got that right.    cranking without plugs in to circulate oil has revealed a couple oil leaks... I think it is the front and rear oil pan gaskets that are not sealing well.

 

I'm still fitting body parts and learning how to do body work.   There are some things I will need to get a professional to do... the lower cab sheet metal is rusted away... I know patch panels are available... Finances are holding me back for now.

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  • 6 months later...

I wanted to keep it as is so I cleaned up the tips and where there was a poor connection I added a coating of sodder to the 3  tips. Not had any trouble since then. I have seen complete wiring harnesses on the net, though.

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  • 6 months later...

well, I managed to find some beat up headlight buckets on ebay that had the connectors still in place.   I bought it them for under 60 bucks.   I pulled the connectors out and gave them a bit of cleaning.   Got some headlight bucket wiring from Mac's as suggested,  Now that I have all the parts needed for this, I can start restore of the headlight buckets, harness, and reflectors.  I bought some lenses that are in great shape too.

 

Ever so slow progression.

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When you assemble the connections, look at the 3 hole spacer as there are the numbers 1-2-3 on it. The wires must be set in the appropriate hole in both connectors for the lights to work properly. A wiring diagram will show you which wire goes to which number.

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I did notice the numbers on the connector, and I recall seeing the numbers on the wiring schematic in my manual.  I doubt I can remove these terminals from the ends of these wires as they are crimped on.  I have purchased the semi-spherical ones, but haven't located the flat ones.

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You don't remove the terminals, just slide the brass connector down and then push each wire up and pull it out of the bakelite sleeve as the terminals nest in the sleeve. Locate which wire goes to the correct number by using the diagram and simply reinstall the appropriate wire in it's correct slot.Then slide the brass connector back over the sleeve.

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  • 5 months later...

Finally something new to share on my project. 

 

I purchased a wire harness from RIWire and carefully pulled the correct portion into the cab.  In an earlier post, I indicated I found headlight bucket connectors and the bucket wire harness. I rebuilt the sockets and connectors.  They are alive!!!!! Parking lights and headlights work

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  • 5 months later...

Haven't posted in awhile.  Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. 

 

I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster.  It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. 

 

I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole thru the cluster bracket and welded a steel screw to it thru the hole to hold the key switch in place

 

On my agenda is to get my broken loose fuel tank baffle repaired and have the tank sealed...luckily it is actually in good structural condition.  Also am still twiddling with aligning the front end body panels/parts (front fenders, radiator and shell, running boards and skirts, and the hood and cab)  it's close, but something is up because I cannot get everything to meet up with all mounting holes without oxerflexing some things...  and I want to get the electrical hooked up so I can fire the motor...I have been cranking it with the starter to keep the oil pushed around.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi all.    Still having a bit of trouble deciding if the rear of the engine/trans is too high, or if I need to raise my cab up some more.

 

Since my dad and I made the rear crossmember from pieces obtained in the distant past from members here, I am wondering if anyone can provide me some simple measurements.

I just put a straight-edge (my 4' level) in the groove of the under-side of the rear crossmember.   From that, I measured the distance between the bottom of the frame rails to the top edge of my straight-edge.   I measured 1-5/8" on both sides.

 

Can anyone possibly confirm if I am too high or too low?  

Here is an image of what it looks like.   Only problem is that the top of the transmission is too high that the metal plate that screws to the wood floor board wont sit flush against the board.

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any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Dennis

 

 

 

Edited by dmgoulet
duplicate picture (see edit history)
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  • 8 months later...

Slow but steady work in progress.  Adjusted the TC-4301a regulator using the Autolite generator/regulator manual.  Prior to adjusting, I was only getting 6.5 volts at the battery.  At high idle, just below 8v, and low idle, down to 7v.   I rebuilt the generator myself, and I needed to be sure it actually worked.  Luckily I succeeded.  Another checklist item completed.

 

While running the engine, I noticed it idles rich.  High idle for 15 minutes consumed almost 1/4 gallon of fuel.  Low idle for same timeframe consumes about the same.  I rebuilt the carb a few months ago, but there must be something still wrong with it.

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