dmgoulet

My '35 KC 2nd Series restoration

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Does anyone make aftermarket clutch fork boots? Or will I need to make something?

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I just parted out a 1935-2 Dodge KCL pick up.Some pictures. Just learned that 5 cab to frame bolts are spring loaded. the driver side front uses a straight bolt and nut. Maybe this will solve the splash apron mounting question. Truck has never been apart from what I have seen. The frame is going by by if anybody needs additional info-pictures.

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Not a whole lot of progress, but some none-the-less.

 

Got the driveshaft rebuilt (again managed to find enough parts to build one).

 

I also actually had the wrong front engine support bracket... I think it was from a plymouth. Instead of a flat top edge, it was rounded down forming a cradle.    I had a makeshift front mount that I made many moons ago that wasnt right either.   I cut the top section off of that one and spliced it into the top of the plymouth one.   Not perfect, but it will work just fine.

 

 

Dennis

 

Note:  pay no attention to my messy garage... its about one car width too small, and too many projects going on. B)

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Edited by dmgoulet (see edit history)

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Looking good, my frame is like yours curved plate at crossover, the one Dave has in his other post must be a later serial number

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He explained that the KCL extra length I'd at that point...thus the longer plates

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Looking good, my frame is like yours curved plate at crossover, the one Dave has in his other post must be a later serial number

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Awhile back there was discussion about the clutch torque shaft mount on the front face of the bell housing.   This is what I put together.

 

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It looks like it will work just fine.  Maybe even stylish enough for the era?

 

 

Dennis

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Dennis looks pretty close to what I have on mine, except mines flat on block , it will work,

That the problem with that part, people pull engines and it goes with engine

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Does anyone know where to get the ignition coil lock switch and cable that would work in my truck?

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I know it needs to be around 12 to 14 inches long, and the hole in the dash is 1". I cannot see how the key switch secures to the dash face. Maybe a nut on the face like a aftermarket switch or maybe secured to the instrument cluster bracket. The bracket has a 1" hole for the key switch with a keyway notch at the bottom.

Edited by dmgoulet (see edit history)

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I'm confused now. I was commenting about the key switch for the coil. Not sure where the running board/skirt topic came into play ☺

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Oh yeah that was a few weeks ago we were discussing that.

Anyway, Dave, do you have the ignition coil lock and cable similar to what I described a few posts up? If so, what are you asking for it?

Dennis

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Hey all,

I have started aligning body panels/parts now that I believe I have my cab sitting correctly on the frame.  Using two 7/8" ash boards on each front side of the cab (4 boards total) and one 1/4" oak board at the rear cab mount pads, I have about 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the bottom sill of the cab. 

 

According to the parts manual, the Front Fender Crossbar (613995) is mounted to the front crossmember with bolts (600553) and shims (604741).   What I have for the shims are flat metal stock about 1/8" thick and have no number on them.

 

When the radiator assembly is put in place and the front fenders are bolted in place, I am running into some fitting problems.  The lower 1/2 distance of the hood side panels rubs against (and nearly overlap) the lip where it meets the cab.  The top panels fit fine, and since the radiator has some position adjustment, the hood panels mate up fine.  It appears the whole front assembly needs to come up about another 1/8", but Im not sure 'where' the space needs to be added.

 

1.  Since the holes in the fenders for the bumper mounts is nearly spot-on, raising the Crossbar would affect that. 

2.  If I add shims in-between the Crossbar and the Radiator mount, that may affect how the fenders meed up with the Grill housing.

 

 

Does anyone have information on what is supposed to be installed for aligning this?   

Are the shims for the Crossbar just 1/8" flat stock like I have?

Is there supposed to be shims between the Radiator mounting bracket and the Crossbar?

 

Has anyone else resolved this issue and care to elaborate?

 

Thanks Much

 

Dennis.

 

Ive attached some photos to show the parts. 

 

 

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Dennis , I mounted the crossbar to frame with a 1/4 rubber by 2 inch sheet

as a bumper , once fender mounted and shroud put on radiator, it has to be adjusted together to align. ,adjusted engine cowling with rods

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Thx... I'll try fitting with thicker shim between crossbar and frame... and see where that puts the alignment of the hood sides.   Original factory parts diagrams would make this much easier.   scanning thru a large  list of parts and determining they are for my truck model is grueling.

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You may not find breakdown ,. The second series was only built 6 months, It was a truck in transition to the 36,. We find with all model changes during production, especially in early years with Engineers always trying to improve 

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A bit of progress on the alignment.   The original metal shims (as seen on bolts in previous post) is about 1/4".   I kept that in-between the crossbar and the fram.  I added another 1/4" shim betwen the radiator mount bracket and the crossbar (where the radiator mount 'studs' go thru the crossbar.    I'll re-install a fender tomorrow and see if it looks like it will align better.

 

Dennis

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I have the lacing on the cab surface, but not on the radiator shell.  I have a few screws spun in at a couple locations to account for it though

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I have been getting some things completed.

 

Clutch fork boot:  Made a snap in ring from some thick sheet metal and found a pattern online to make the boot using g black leather.

 

Welded holes and mating surfaces on clutch and brake pedal linkages and re-drilled/machined to operate smoothly.  My dad machined a new shaft for the pedals and machined pedal bushings to solid-up the pedals.

 

I fabricated some new front cab wood mounts from 7/8" ash board.  Using two on each side (stacked) gave me a 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the lower lip of the cab.  Using 1/4" oak shims at the rear cab mounts squared things up.   It does look like my rear crossmember is holding the trans up too high into the cab... I will need to lower it... which means my clutch torque shaft pivot bracket will need to be modified.  The joy of it all!!!

 

I did crank the engine over via the foot starter pedal... good to see that I got that right.    cranking without plugs in to circulate oil has revealed a couple oil leaks... I think it is the front and rear oil pan gaskets that are not sealing well.

 

I'm still fitting body parts and learning how to do body work.   There are some things I will need to get a professional to do... the lower cab sheet metal is rusted away... I know patch panels are available... Finances are holding me back for now.

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Question: Does anyone have a source or an alternative for the headlight bucket to wire harness connectors?

 

I found a picture of what they probably look like that I have included.  

 

Thanks,

Dennis

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Edited by dmgoulet (see edit history)

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