Jump to content

My '35 KC 2nd Series restoration


Recommended Posts

Since I have been getting more involved with following postings online here at AACA, I thought it would be good to show my project progression.   Here are some photos.

 

The black & white multiple pictures is back in 1963ish when my dad replaced the original engine with a 286 Chevy small block :(

I am the younger of the two boys.

 

Then a photo of the engine sitting in the frame...  My dad and I made the rear supporting crossmember from parts (some from another AACA member).  I rebuilt this engine (1948 model 230 cid) while I was in the USAF)

 

Then a photo of my frame just after returning from being powder coated.  It looks just awesome!

 

Then a photo of the engine back in the frame.

 

Then another photo of the crossmember my dad and I made but looking at it from underneath.

 

And finally a picture of the inside of the cab sitting on the frame showing transmission fit... I think it will work out alright.

 

 

Ive got the cab back off the frame.  I have a newer bellhousing that I need to modify to fit the correct foot-starter pedal so that it aligns right with the starter.  

 

************************   Now for a Question!!!!   ********************

 

I set the running board on its perches and am wondering about the straps coming from the 'skirt' to the top of the frame.   It looks like they should line up with some holes in the top of the frame (they're off a bit)... did these bolt directly to the frame with rubber padding?   Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

The last picture should be of the running board on the frame.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Dennis

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-105733-0-54310100-1431987028_thumb.

post-105733-0-52710600-1431987278_thumb.

post-105733-0-35979100-1431987388_thumb.

post-105733-0-72141000-1431987475_thumb.

post-105733-0-72017800-1431987529_thumb.

post-105733-0-53103100-1431987590_thumb.

post-105733-0-03478900-1431988486_thumb.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave,

 I guess they are called 'skirts' that are just inboard of the running board and go upward ( hiding the frame ).   If you look at my last photo, about halfway down the 'skirt'  upper edge there is a strap that overlaps the top of the frame.   and at the very end (where the rear fender will meet) there is another strap.  

 

The middle strap nearly lines up with a hole in the top of the frame.   I am assuming this would 'mount' here somehow (bushing? rubber pads?)  but not sure since these were never connected (just dangling) ever since I got the truck.    The back strap isnt long enough to reach the frame.  Did it mount to something else?   Both straps have about a 1" hole at the end that would meet up with something.

 

Hope you can see what Im talking about!

 

Dennis

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just looked at mine and they are the same, being the second series is kind of put together from other vehicles,

I think the running boards and splash guards are the same as 33 Plymouth, It could be they hook up on the Plymouth frame,

Mine are like yours just there not hooked up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those straps do absolutely nothing that I can see. Mine were rusted and I had a guy weld on new ones and extend them while he filled the splash aprons. I didn't know what I would need so extending them seemed the way to go. When I got to putting the aprons back on the frame I discovered they connected to nothing at all. I ended up cutting them back until they just sat on the frame and left them. Anybody out there know what they were intended for? If they were squashed between the body,the body mounting filler strap and the frame top, they MIGHT be considered part of the splash apron mounting. Yes,no,maybe?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave,Is the apron on the 34, and 35 first series, the same as 35 second series?

Since the cab on second series is different and mounts different, there was no where to hook them up, so the just left them dangling?

Interesting.

Thanks dave

Jesse

Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

My uncle use to work on 104s, Take that and go work on a B1B. The stories that he would tell. Language not good!!!  No thanks. And how often does the company supply you with the correct tools?  I use to work in Ford experimental lab and half the time, the correct tools were not available. We started to do the EEC system and we would pull our hair out to try and diag.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave... exactly. My point is that there is little documentation available (with illustrations) for these antique vehicles. And there are fewer and fewer grease monkeys from the Era with the knowledge.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Surf City,

the Second Series KC used the rear mount like my truck has. I am unsure as to the reason for the crossmember that is just forward of the bell housing. The earlier series KC had the rear crossmember that was crossed above the trans just aft of the bell housing. I assume the later style was more serviceable than the earlier.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine was removed when I got truck,it had a hemi in it, I had to find it and reinstall it, when I went back to original powertrain, I modified it so I could remove it during engine changes, I think it was put in there between transmission and engine to support the frame from cracking.

Jesse

Link to post
Share on other sites

My spalsh apron straps were not that bad off and they had no large stamped holes in them like those in the photos. I think they may have been used in cars to mount in the body mount bolt position. Those bolt positions don't exist on my KCL. But it came originally as a cowl and chassis. This may explain the lack of holes. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I'm working on fitting the running boards to the frame... I had to rework the brackets that support the running boards as the front ones were angling down about an inch or so. Before getting the front fenders into position I need to secure the bracket that is under the radiator and that the fender supports mount to. Is there any insulators between the frame and this bracket or any kind of spacer?

I noticed that there is supposed to be some sort of felt strip that runs along the top edge of the running board skirt. Is it mostly to stop metal to metal contact with the bottom of the cab?

Also, since my running boards are warped and splitting in the middle, I bought some reproductions that look just awesome. The original are connected to the skirt with some sort of rivet. Would one recommend pop rivets as a replacement or recommend something else?

Thanks on advance for advice.

Dennis

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's kinda bugging me about those straps... if not utilized on the 2nd Series KC, what did they connect to on the 1st Series? The frame is the same (except for maybe cab mounts) as well as the fenders and running boards. Inquiring minds MUST know!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I've been working on a solution to using a foot activated starter as the original had.   I didnt have any of the original parts (as usual).   I did have a bell housing that was from a later model, however the foot starter it had was much different (for a different cab).   I located a foot starter, and a starter motor (both off of a 33 dodge engine).  

I started by shaving off the pivot point on the later model bell housing because it was in the approximate location that the base of the '33 starter pedal needed to be.   I made a U bracket to cradle the starter pedal.   

Ive got to get the cab back in place and determine the travel needed for the pedal.  I think i will need to make longer linkages between the starter shift fork and the starter pedal.

post-105733-0-33429900-1434672693_thumb.post-105733-0-86420200-1434672738_thumb.post-105733-0-03500000-1434672779_thumb.post-105733-0-86639000-1434672811_thumb.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bracket look good, sometimes you have to engineer fixes on some of these, The second series is unique in it was only built for 6 months, I don't think the running boards and apron on second series is the same as first, Dave might know for sure, I will need to ask hotrod Charlie, or bryan , They would know for sure,

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

I just parted out a 1935-2 Dodge KCL pick up.Some pictures. Just learned that 5 cab to frame bolts are spring loaded. the driver side front uses a straight bolt and nut. Maybe this will solve the splash apron mounting question. Truck has never been apart from what I have seen. The frame is going by by if anybody needs additional info-pictures.

post-121135-0-82734500-1436663177_thumb.

post-121135-0-51369800-1436663187_thumb.

post-121135-0-49607000-1436663194_thumb.

post-121135-0-73660100-1436663200_thumb.

post-121135-0-14224100-1436663206_thumb.

post-121135-0-44665100-1436663211_thumb.

post-121135-0-33847300-1436663216_thumb.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a whole lot of progress, but some none-the-less.

 

Got the driveshaft rebuilt (again managed to find enough parts to build one).

 

I also actually had the wrong front engine support bracket... I think it was from a plymouth. Instead of a flat top edge, it was rounded down forming a cradle.    I had a makeshift front mount that I made many moons ago that wasnt right either.   I cut the top section off of that one and spliced it into the top of the plymouth one.   Not perfect, but it will work just fine.

 

 

Dennis

 

Note:  pay no attention to my messy garage... its about one car width too small, and too many projects going on. B)

post-105733-0-70849600-1436833408_thumb.

post-105733-0-07403100-1436833469_thumb.

post-105733-0-94496000-1436833497_thumb.

Edited by dmgoulet (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Awhile back there was discussion about the clutch torque shaft mount on the front face of the bell housing.   This is what I put together.

 

post-105733-0-15427300-1438730027_thumb.post-105733-0-88685000-1438730055_thumb.post-105733-0-24044100-1438730086_thumb.post-105733-0-92903700-1438730110_thumb.post-105733-0-42224500-1438730143_thumb.

 

 

It looks like it will work just fine.  Maybe even stylish enough for the era?

 

 

Dennis

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I know it needs to be around 12 to 14 inches long, and the hole in the dash is 1". I cannot see how the key switch secures to the dash face. Maybe a nut on the face like a aftermarket switch or maybe secured to the instrument cluster bracket. The bracket has a 1" hole for the key switch with a keyway notch at the bottom.

Edited by dmgoulet (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...