Ove Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Whats the best source for new blower motors for my 55 Century? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Suppliers for mid 50's chevys will have generic ($40) and original appearing ($110). Used ones are out there. Or you can disassemble yours to clean, lubricate and burnish the commutator. I have done dozens of these and there were only 2 that I could not fix: one was crusted solid with rust; the other had a gap in the commutator that required a tap to get it going if it stopped at that location.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ove Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Suppliers for mid 50's chevys will have generic ($40) and original appearing ($110). Used ones are out there. Or you can disassemble yours to clean, lubricate and burnish the commutator. I have done dozens of these and there were only 2 that I could not fix: one was crusted solid with rust; the other had a gap in the commutator that required a tap to get it going if it stopped at that location.Willieis it the same motor as in trifive chevys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 is it the same motor as in trifive chevys?Visually they look the same and others have used them with good results. I have not --- I restore my old ones. One pitfall that I can think of is that the rotation my be different, but most should be standard. If you order from a chevy supplier don't tell them it is for a Buick...it will become unreturnable.There are 2 blower motors on a 55 and only one is visible unless you have factory a/c, then you should restore those, since they are bigger than standard and they rotate clockwise for one and counterclockwise for the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ove Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 ok,thanks! its the one under the seat thats have some kind of shortcut and blows the fuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 That one has to be rebuilt (I think), because the power wire is on the fan side of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 ok,thanks! its the one under the seat thats have some kind of shortcut and blows the fuseDid you try disconnecting the motor to see if it still blows fuses? mite not be the motor but rather wiring shorted to ground. Might also be an internal motor short that is easy to correct. Sometimes things ain't what they seem..............Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ove Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 YES.I disconnected it cause it share fuse with the other motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Time to take it apart and look for the obvious.................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 I cannot get the shaft to let go of the upper bushing.... any tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 If that 'bigger hammer' does not work, move on to a better unit. Dissimilar metals will weld and the bushing will probably come out of the housing first, still attached to the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Of course the other motor I have here is in just as bad as shape but it's also off an AC car so it's different. Ugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956322 Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Any chance it's the same as a 56 non ac motor?? If so pm me 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Probably Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 Sometimes they stick like that. Sand/Scotchbrite the exposed shaft. Apply penetrating oil and then apply gentle constant pressure, like a small arbor press or such. Careful, the shaft, especially the threaded part, bends easily! Maybe a two jaw puller might fit. Taping with a soft faced hammer may work, but it runs a chance of bending the shaft. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 The bearing is spherical bronze oil-ite. It's held in place by a spring steel retainer spot welded to the case. If it won't tap loose and you've decided to junk the motor try this. Drill a 1/8" hole in the spherical dimple in the cap end. Drill well into the bronze bearing. Insert a 1/8" pin in the hole and bearing. This will keep the bearing from turning and allow you work the shaft back and forth. Since the co-efficient of expansion is much higher for bronze than it is for steel and the bearing is larger than the shaft I would also heat the cap in the area of the dimple to expand the bearing. I'm thinking that with patience , some heat and penetrating type lube you can get the shaft free................Bob 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 (edited) On 11/14/2017 at 9:22 AM, Bhigdog said: The bearing is spherical bronze oil-ite. It's held in place by a spring steel retainer spot welded to the case. If it won't tap loose and you've decided to junk the motor try this. Drill a 1/8" hole in the spherical dimple in the cap end. Drill well into the bronze bearing. Insert a 1/8" pin in the hole and bearing. This will keep the bearing from turning and allow you work the shaft back and forth. Since the co-efficient of expansion is much higher for bronze than it is for steel and the bearing is larger than the shaft I would also heat the cap in the area of the dimple to expand the bearing. I'm thinking that with patience , some heat and penetrating type lube you can get the shaft free................Bob This worked... the motor still doesnt. It appears that the brushes and the copper contact on the rotor are just done. Edited November 19, 2017 by wndsofchng06 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 45 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said: This worked... the motor still doesnt. It appears that the brushes and the copper contact on the commutator are just done. Close up pix , please. Too soon to give up....................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Do I have to look in my stash of units and parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 When these motors lay around long enough to get the shafts seized up just freeing the shaft usually isn't enough to get them working. Commutators corrode over, brushes stick, springs lose tension, etc etc. If the windings aren't toasted they often can be massaged back into service. Way too early to give it up if the windings aren't burned..............Bob 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 13 hours ago, Bhigdog said: When these motors lay around long enough to get the shafts seized up just freeing the shaft usually isn't enough to get them working. Commutators corrode over, brushes stick, springs lose tension, etc etc. If the windings aren't toasted they often can be massaged back into service. Way too early to give it up if the windings aren't burned..............Bob Well Bob, I see why you are the grand high exalted mystic ruler.... I got it unsiezed using your trick, but it wouldn't go. I had cleaned the brushes, contacts, etc.... I had given up. But last night I got to thinking, "it didn't even spark when I touched it to a battery.... I have missed something". SO I pulled it back out of the scrap pile today... and saw what it was! I was so focused on bushings and brushes, I totally missed this: When I first opened the motor up, this wire was stuffed between the coil and the case and I didn't even think about checking it. Last night after thinking about why I couldn't even get it to grunt or spark, I thought to check this and sure enough it was not connected. A quick spot weld fixed that. Now look..... 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said: 1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said: last night I got to thinking, "it didn't even spark when I touched it to a battery.... I have missed something Good intuitive thinking, Matt. I'm pleased I was able to help. Even your rooster sounds like he's "crowing" about your success........................Bob Edited November 19, 2017 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 And the big demo was announced by a rooster --- priceless! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 That was crazy timing 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggalonly Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 It seems one of my motors is working, but is moving slow. In fact, it only turns while on high. Any idea if cleaning up the motor helps in this regard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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