carmover Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I need a fuel shutoff valve that screws into the Vacuum Canister on my 25.Mine is stripped out and I can't hook up the line to the carb. If Someone has one or knows where I can Get OneI would sure appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Are you talking about a valve that screws into the bottom of the vacuum canister? If that is what you are looking for, there is probably two routes to go. One is to put in a helicoil and use an original valve, or maybe go to a hardware store/ Lowe's etc and see if they have a brass valve that you can use in the bottom of the tank. The plumbing dept is a great place to visit for some of these issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 You can always use JBWeld to fix it, abit permanently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Restoration Supply Co. carries a nice assortment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Mine is the original multi-turn valve. But unless you intend to have your car judged, I suggest you go with a quarter turn plug or ball valve for convenience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 On my 1925-25 my float needle was always leaking and it seemed the shut off was not shutting off below the vacuum tank. I added another 1/4 turn ball valve just behind the carb and all is well for the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 As an additional item, I am going to add a fuel cut off solenoid to my truck so the fuel is always off when the ignition is off. Bought one that is sold for the Model T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Good idea Larry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmover Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Thanks to all who responded .I went by a Hardware store and bought a compression valve and on its list of uses it says it will work with gasoline.I also got a brass elbow fittingwhich will screw into the canister so the valve will be in the right place for the line to hook up to.I have got the float working properly and the needle and seat seem to be working ok.I am going to hook the line up in the morning and see if all of this works when I put fuel to it.I will let everyone know tomorrow how it worked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmover Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) I have been working on the 25 all day and the fuel line and valve is working fine.When I put fuel to it it cranked right up and the motor raced up and idled fine.I let it run for fifteen minutes then turned it offand let it sit with the gas on for about ten minutes and no fuel leaked out anywhere I cranked it back up and it ran for around five minutes and started to run rough and wouldn't idle I got out and the carb wasleaking gas from the air intake and was coming out of the primer button. Edited November 23, 2014 by carmover (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROD W Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Sounds like your float needle valve isn,t quite seating properly or the float has become saturated. Usually if you give the float button a bit of a jiggle that re-seats the needle. Remove the float cover and see if the float is moving freely on its pivot pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmover Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Rod, I checked it and I believe the problem is in the pivot pin. I took it out and it will pivot free for a little bit and then it will catch.It has a little play in it up and down.I ordered a kit from kantor and they said it would be 3 to four months before i could get it.The float is coated in super glue and is floating fine as far as I can tell.I have polished the ball end of the needle with emory cloth and tried closing the brass fitting with pliers and took out some of the playand it felt fine and wasn't binding at all.i cranked the car with the cover of and the fuel level was good and it was doing fine for a while then started to give trouble.I hope the kit gets here soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 You might also try coining the needle and seat with a very light tap. Or, you could also use fine grinding compound or even tooth paste to lap the needle and seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmover Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 I will try that Mark.Should the ball and socket on the needle have any up and down play in it? Mine has a little play but don't seem to be binding anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Yes, it will have some play. As long as nothing binds or hangs up, it should work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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