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1931 Buick Series 50 cooling fan bearing, what type of lubricant


barryb5

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The specs and adjustments manual calls for motor oil. I use 50 W oil as the thicker oil leaks less. There is a small gear pump in the hub that circulates the oil onto the bearing. The proper method for filling is remove the screw, fill with oil, turn screw hole to the bottom and allow excess oil to drain. turn to top and replace the screw. There is a standpipe inside the housing that keeps you from overfilling. Manual calls for this to be done every 5,000 miles. I would watch for leakage and check more frequently if there are signs of oil loss. One of the hyperdermic needle plunger type units works well to fill as the small hole is a nuisance to get oil in without spilling and dripping over the whole housing.

Bob

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i'm not sure if the fan system is the same on '31s and on '30s (which is what i have), but to my knowledge it's not a bearing system at all, but a system of little gears that spin the fan.

If it is the latter, one thing you may want to do - although it is time consuming - it to disassemble the entire mechanism (fan, belt, everything).

inspect the actual gears.

I did this to mine after the fan failed and fell off.

the gears were all broken inside. (due to years of wear and tear and probable lack of lubrication over the years.)

in this case there is a gent who manufactures a sealed bearing retrofit that works wonders.

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Barry:

The fan on my 1925-25 was very loose and I thought it was leaking and soaking the leather belt. Yours should have a "V" belt. When I took it apart it was packed with crusty grease. I bored out the cast iron body and machined bronze bearings. The main shaft gear was good and the fiber gear which helps distribute the oil along the shaft was also good. This part was available from BOBS. After I reinstalled, all seemed to work well for a while then it seemed it was still leaking. So I simply made a replacement interior body of aluminum, new shaft and sealed bearings. Construction article in the Service tips book sold by the BCA or in a 1987? Bugle article. I also did a patent search and have the patent drawings for this type of unit.

Larry

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Don't know for sure, but if it is like my 1934 - 57, the fan hub has a chamber for oil (30w?). You remove the plug, fill with oil, and then turn the fan so that a predetermined excess amount runs out of the chamber, then turn right side up and replace the plug.

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I am converting a unit for a 1928 Standard and it has that little pipe inside about 1" long inside that I will have to cut off.

Here is what the unit would look like before the fan is re-attached with the old parts in the backround

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Thanks for the information. I have taken the entire assembly apart and cleaned and oiled it. I am going to use some spindle oil. Spindle oil is somewhat sticky and has a different feel from regular motor oil. The stickiness prevents it from slinging off and hopefully will prevent it from leaking. I will run this for a couple of weeks and remove, inspect, and see how it is working for the application. I appreciate the responses.

Edited by barryb5 (see edit history)
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Thanks for the information. I have taken the entire assembly apart and cleaned and oiled it. I am going to use some spindle oil. Spindle oil is somewhat sticky and has a different feel from regular motor oil. The stickiness prevents it from slinging off and hopefully will prevent it from leaking. I will run this for a couple of weeks and remove, inspect, and see how it is working for the application. I appreciate the responses.

Here is a sure fire solution to any oil leakage problems but you will need to check to see if this will fit a 31'. The principle is the same in any case:

http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/cooling-system/1929-30-all-ser.-ball-bearing-fan-hub-replacement.-.-fh-290.html

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Do you have one of these Michael? If so, can I assume you like it?

Thanks,

Yes, I do have one. I have installed it and it seems to fit very well and looks 100% stock as all the differences are internal. Have not yet fired my engine as my car is still under restoration so I can't comment on performance just yet. Seems to totally eliminate the lubrication issue though.

Thanks,

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