1932 Studebaker Indy car build

[Gary_Ash]

I got the quote from Typecast for the finned aluminum drums.  It was about what I expected.  Can I get a mortgage on one of my daughters?  Anyway, I gave Typecast the order, now I have to wait about 14 weeks for the drums, plus shipping time from the UK.  The new drums will look more period-correct.  Also, most of the Buick drums I own don't really have much life left in them, and relining them isn't cheap, either.

 

I made another significant commitment this week and had a 32,000 BTU heat pump system installed in the 3-stall garage. It can warm me in the winter, cool me in the summer.  Fortunately, I had 2" of rigid foam insulation put under the concrete floor when the garage was built, and the walls are fully insulated and covered with 4x8 sheets of 1/2" OSB.  We're expecting heating oil and propane prices to zoom upward in New England this winter, so it should cut costs in the coldest months and be greener.  The 50,000 BTU propane heater was eating stacks of $100 bills last winter. 

 

A rendering of the finned drums.  The real ones won't be this shiny.

[edinmass]

I'm certain you will be much happier with the new correct looking drums. To be perfectly honest, the fins on the other ones distracted me........guess I have spent too much time in pre war shops. It's all in the details. 👍

[68v]

Wow this post has some amazing picture! Super old cars and the build quality is amazing!! 

[Gary_Ash]

I haven't posted here for a while as nothing much was happening to the Indy car.  However, today became a red-letter day when the phone rang.  The caller was Bernd Link from Lucerne, Switzerland.  He has acquired the black #46 Studebaker Indy car after the pervious owner died.  He was looking for history and information about his car.  As he was doing some investigating in Switzerland, a guy at an organization that keeps a registry of old cars, reached into a file and pulled out my name and phone number.  I had been looking for #46 for the last two years after I heard that the previous owner was deceased an left my contact info with a number of people in Europe.  It paid off!

 

Car #46 is now licensed and registered in Switzerland and is street-legal, so it will be appearing at shows and events.  Bernd Link puts on a car show and swap meet in Lucerne each year called Swiss Classic World (see http://www.swissclassicworld.ch), next one is in May, 2022.  

 

Now the locations of the five cars that duplicate the ones that ran in the 1932 Indy 500 are known.  Link understood my dream of getting all five together someday.  Wouldn't it be great to do it at the Indy Speedway?  In the meantime, here are their pictures.

 

The original five Studebaker cars at Indy, 1932.

 

#18 at Laguna Seca race track.

 

#22 at the Indy Speedway Museum, Sept. 2021.

 

#37 at the Climb to the Clouds race, Mt. Washington, NH.

 

#46 in Switzerland.  This car has run on the Nürburgring track in recent years. 

 

#25, me at the wheel, Indianapolis, Sept. 2021.

 

 

[Gary_Ash]

I neglected to include a photo of Studebaker Indy car #34.  It has a body as the 1933 versions of the Studebaker cars used, streamlined by wind tunnel testing at Univ. of Michigan.  Car #34 uses the chassis that was on the original #25 car.  The current body was commissioned by Brooks Stevens, built by Ray Bessasie Jr., because the original 1933 body had not turned up yet, though it did later.  The car is now owned by August Grasis III in Kansas City, MO, and is raced frequently.  So, that makes 6 Studebaker Indy cars to get together.  And then, there are a couple more non-factory Studebaker-powered Indy cars, the Art Rose Special and the American Twist Drill Special, both with the smaller 250 cubic inch flathead straight 8 as I used.

 

Studebaker Indy car #34.

 

Engine and carbs in #34.

 

The five Studebaker Indy cars as they appeared at Indy in 1933.

[alsfarms]

#9, #8, #34, #40.....what is the last one?  For some reason, it appears different a bit that the front four....may it is just picture perspective?

Al

[Gary_Ash]

Actually, the car numbers were 9, 6, 34, 46, and 47 in 1933.  Car #47 is essentially the same car as #37 in 1932.  Because it was actually owned by George Hunt, a Studebaker engineer, and Ab Jenkins, it didn't get an entire new body or new engine.  But, like the four factory-owned cars, it got its engine moved 8 inches forward to allegedly improve weight balance.  Careful examination of the old photos shows that steering gear, cowl, and seating area were moved forward and 8" was added to the body behind the seats in #37/47.  In the photo below, you can see the three holes behind the steering gear where the box was previously mounted.  A new grille was added to copy the shape of the other cars with the new bodies.  In later years, it was returned to the original design, and you can still see the three extra holes in front of the steering gear.  All but one of the other four got their 1932 bodies back when the company sold off the cars in 1935.  The one that kept its 1933 body, not sure if it was #6 or #9, went to South Africa where it raced until 1959.  The body and chassis were scrapped, but the engine was saved and still exists in the hands of an avid South African Studebaker collector.

 

Car #37/47 in 1933 configuration.

 

Car #37 restored to its 1931 configuration with the three extra holes from 1933.

 

 

[alsfarms]

Thanks for the clarification on design and car numbers.  I thought I was reading the numbers correctly, but couldn't determine for sure the part of the number that was on top of the hood.  How did these cars all place in 1932 as well as 1933 Indy 500?

Al

Edited February 3, 2022 by alsfarms
clarity (see edit history)

[Gary_Ash]

@alsfarms:  Studebaker did pretty well in 1932 with car #22 finishing third and #37 was sixth.  The other factory cars went out due to losing wheels or a crash.  The wheel problem was due to high tire wear early in the race, forcing the Studebaker team to borrow wheels and tires from another team.  Unfortunately, the wheels didn't fit correctly and came loose.

 

The factory cars did better in 1933, finishing in 6th through 12th position, all running at the end of the race.  Two other Studebaker powered cars filled the other slots in the 6-12 positions, so it was a good day for Studebaker.  And, their last day at Indy as a corporate team. 

 

See Wikipedia on the Indy 500 race results for 1932 and 1933:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1932_Indianapolis_500

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1933_Indianapolis_500

 

Car #37 from 1931/1932 continued to race, finishing 10th in 1937 against a field of Miller- and Offy-engined cars.  That year was the end of the two-man cars.

[EDIT:  It was actually car #22 that raced in 1937 after regaining its 1932 body.]

 

There is a lengthy, detailed description of the cars and people involved in Indy racing during the 1930-37 "junk formula" period.  It's a great read!

https://forums.autosport.com/topic/66109-indianapolis-junk-formula/ 

Edited February 7, 2022 by Gary_Ash
corrected error (see edit history)

[Gary_Ash]

I just got an email from Typecast Ltd in England that my new Alfin brake drums are finished.  The pictures look very good.  These are to the same internal dimensions as the Buick Riviera 90-fin and 45-fin drums, but have circumferential grooves instead of cross fins.  The iron liners are cast in.  This is a better 1930s look.  Can't wait to try them!

 

Drums in process before machining ribs.

 

Finished drum.  Size is 12" i.d. x 2.25" shoe width, 5 holes on 5" BCD.

 

1967 Buick Riviera 90-fin aluminum drums currently on the car.

[edinmass]

Very nice.....and a much better look.👍👍

[Gary_Ash]

I was excited to start putting the new brake drums on the car.  I jacked up one front wheel, took off the wheel and hub.  I was appalled to see that the brake shoe anchor block had come loose from the backing plate.  I stripped all the brake parts off, removed the backing plate from the spindle, and tried to figure out what happened.  At first, I thought the round block had been brazed to the backing plate and the joint had failed.  When I took the other front wheel off, the other anchor block was also loose.  It was a very good thing that the car didn't get registered and driven very far.

 

With both blocks out, this indicated a bigger problem.  I Googled photos of 1966-69 Buick Riviera front brakes and found an important thing I had completely missed:  on the Riviera, a 9/16" hex bolt went through the block and into the steering arm.  Yes, THAT would keep the blocks in place and resist the push that the brake shoes make against the blocks.  Apparently, the blocks were simply pressed into the holes to hold them enough to permit full assembly with the bolt, plus two other smaller ones through the plates.  Now I'll have to make some spools to allow installation of a clamping bolt to the backing plates.  Since I had already welded on a 3/16" thick adaptor plate on the back, I think the assemblies will be strong enough to keep everything in place and aligned.  There are four 1/2"-20 bolts that hold the backing plates to the spindles.

 

These are the problems that occur when one starts mixing parts from various cars.  

 

My front brakes as first assembled. Anchor is at right with 9/16" hole.  Plate is mounted 90 degrees from normal

because of knuckle size.

 

A 1966 Riviera with the backing plate removed.  Bolt and tapped hole indicated.

 

 

Edited March 25, 2022 by Gary_Ash (see edit history)

[Autofil]

The press fit basically kept the anchor in place hiding the proper installation benefit.  Over time, the anchor has as you have seen the loose fit and one day ripping the tap off with a potential for the brake effect being completely gone or at best partly. Glad you discovered this early. Looking forward to see the new drums installed. 

[Gary_Ash]

The anchor block was pressed just tight enough in the backing plate to hold it in place for assembly, but not enough to resist braking forces.  I welded both blocks to the backing plates.  The plates are made from steel about 0.165" thick, but that might not be enough to keep the plates from bending under load.  Because the blocks didn't extend all the way to the 3/16" steel adapter plates I had long ago welded to the backing plates, I made up two spools 1" o.d x 9/16" i.d. x ~.30" thick, then tack welded them in place so they wouldn't move around when the 9/16" bolt was not in place.  I made a pair of reinforcing bars from 1/4" thick steel and welded them over the spools using a 9/16" drill bit to line everything up.  Even so, I had to ream the hole a little, but now there is 2.25" of solid steel to keep the block in place and aligned.  A 9/16'-18 x 3" hex bolt goes through each block and is secured with a nut on the back side.  

 

The shoes and small pieces got reassembled and the first drum is now in place.  On to the next side!

 

Anchor block loose from the backing plate.

 

Backing plate and anchor cleaned, ready for welding.

 

Spool inserted on back side and tack welded in place, ground flush to plate.

 

Reinforcing bars welded in place over spools and painted.

 

Side view of 9/16"-18 x 3", Grade 8 bolt inserted through anchor block.

 

New Alfin drum installed on left front.  Old Buick drum in background.

 

 

[Autofil]

That was a proper reinforcement you came up with. These blocks will never ever come loose by braking any longer. And the smoother backing plate suits the new drums perfectly. Safe braking! 😊

[Gary_Ash]

I wondered about how much force the shoes could apply to the anchor block.  The car with two people and a tank of gas would weigh about 3000 lbs.  The weight balance is near 50-50, so that would place 750 lbs of weight on each wheel.  With the brakes locked up and the tire skidding, the tire-to-road coefficient of friction is about 0.7 on a dry road.  That applies about 0.7 x 750 lbs = 525 lbs of force tangent to the tire.  The tire diameter is about 31 inches, so its radius is 1.29 ft.  Hence the tangent force applies 1.29 ft * 525 lbs = 678 lb-ft of torque to the wheel.  The brake drums are 12 inch diameter, radius of 0.5 ft.  The brake shoes have to create an equal amount of torque to lock the wheel, but from the smaller radius of the drum surface.  The braking force transferred to the shoes is then 678 lb-ft / 0.5 ft = 1356 lbs.  This is the force that the anchor block has to resist due to the slight rotation of the brake shoes in the counter-clockwise direction on the left front wheel.  This is a rough estimate because other effects take place, like weight transfer under braking, and the coefficient of friction may vary with tire compound and road surface.  But, it gives some idea of what happens inside the brakes.  So, yes, I think the welded and reinforced anchor block will survive with ease.  As the old saying goes, anything worth doing is worth overdoing!

 

Brake force diagram for the left front wheel with the wheel locked and tire skidding.

[Gary_Ash]

At last, I have all four of the new aluminum drums installed.  As with many projects, there were some details that slowed the job.  Having dealt with the front backing plate issues, I was sure the rear wheels would go quickly.  They didn't.  First, I discovered that the left rear drum didn't want to fit over the linings because the new drums were exactly 12.000 inch i.d. and the 55-year old Buick drum was much larger.  Even with the adjuster screwed all the way in, the drum still wouldn't fit.  I'd had the problem on the right side which we cured by grinding the overly thick shoes.  Since I didn't have access to the grinder just now,  I machined about 1/8th inch from the threaded end of the adjuster and re-assembled it.  That was enough to start the shoes into the drum.

 

But, the drum wouldn't go over the 1/2 inch lugs.  The holes had been drilled in the right places for the 5-on-5" pattern, but were slightly under size as I couldn't get a grade 8 cap screw through the holes.  I reamed the holes until I could slide a piece of precision size 1/2" DOM tube through the hole.  Still didn't fit on the hub!  I finally figured out that the studs I had pressed into the rear hubs from the back side were probably not exactly perpendicular to the hub surface.  A one-half degree tilt would move the tip by 0.008" or more, though maybe I only needed 0.002"-0.003".  I didn't want to keep reaming out the holes.  The old Buick drums had larger holes, maybe as large as 0.530", because they had once had ridged studs pressed through them, which is why they had fit without problems.  Once I figured out which were the offending studs and their direction of tilt, I screwed on a couple of lug nuts and gave them a healthy sideways tap with a 3 lb hammer.  Ahh, joy! The right side went easier, just needed the holes reamed.  Now all is together and the brakes work.

 

 

Buick 90-fin drum, circa 1967, on rear wheel.  Nice, but not 1930s "period correct".

 

Typecast Alfin drum on rear wheel.  Looks much better for 1932.  Normally, I'd prefer to see two threads poking out of the nuts,

but the conical nuts have plenty of thread engagement and they are put on tight.  The drums are also tightly centered on a raised portion of the hub.

 

Wire wheel installed on hub.  Too bad it's hard to see the drums.

 

The new front drums.

 

Ready to cruise - and stop!

 

 

[Autofil]

I think the looks are definitely worth your effort. It is often such details that are often left uncorrected, but are noted as non-time correct items. Now it is hard for any tire kickers to know "better" 😉 The Stude stands out as my favourite replica ever. Thank you for bringing us along on this adventure Gary 😀💪

[alsfarms]

I agree, your refinements and tidying up of small issues are in fact good for you as your confidence is now greatly enhanced in your braking power.  As this is a race car, undoubtedly, you will sometime test the high speed waters, now with confidence.

Al

[Studemax]

Color me green with envy, Gary....

[Gary_Ash]

I'm again pursuing titling and registration at the Mass. Registry of Motor Vehicles.  I have a friend who is a retired Mass. state policeman, and he referred me to a trooper working at the RMV.  We chatted on the phone, and he said he would call me the next day from the Title Review Officer's office.  They did call, suggested  a procedure to get an RMV assigned VIN.  They were pleasant and helpful.  I downloaded the form, filled it out, took it to the local RMV office to pay the $50 fee for getting an inspection appointment.  Of course, the RMV computer didn't want to accept my application because the car doesn't have a 17 digit VIN.  The nice lady at the desk figured a work-around, took my money, and gave me an official receipt. One step done.

 

The Title Review Officer told me to write a statement that I had built the body myself from sheet metal and get it notarized.  So, I wrote out a page, included pictures of me working on the parts, and got my insurance company to notarize it.  Another step done.

 

Now I need to make an appointment at the state police Salvage Inspection Yard about 25 miles from here and trailer the car there.  They'll check over my various bills of sale and other documents, be sure that no stolen parts are included in the car.  I tried making an appointment on-line.  About 3 clicks in, it says, "Enter your 17 digit VIN..."  If I had a 17 digit VIN, I wouldn't be making this appointment!!!  It would not let me proceed.  There is a phone number to call, which I did.  They don't answer the phone, so it goes to an answering machine where some young lady swears they will call back ASAP.  I've called twice now, been a few hours, no call-back.  Grrrrr!  

 

I've been to that state police inspection station before for another car.  Those are scary guys:  black jump suits, buzz cut heads, .45 automatics on their hips, and lots of attitude.  I think they are all ex-MPs.  Eventually I'll get an appointment and answer with the proper, "Yes, SIR!" when asked a question.  Meanwhile, I sit here, waiting for the phone call.

[Gary_Ash]

On my 4th phone call to the RMV Inspection line, it was actually answered.  After being asked if I had already paid the $50 fee and getting my reference number, I was given an appointment for July 5.  Gosh, only 5 weeks away!  Not quick service, but I'll be ready when the day comes.

[Drawrings]

Gary, my grandfather owned this car.  My mom just found the model replica for it along with letters from e.t.reynolds, studebaker's chief engineer.

[Gary_Ash]

Your grandfather Virgil Exner was a great car designer.  Is your father Virgil Exner, Jr?  I’ve exchanged a number of emails over the years with Virgil Jr., hope he is doing well.  His Notre Dame classmate, Mike Cleary, owns the blue #18 car, and I rode with Mike in his Indy car just a few months ago in Palm Springs, CA. 

 

I have copies of a lot of correspondence that E.T. Reynolds exchanged with various Studebaker people, will look for any to Virgil Exner Sr.  Much of his correspondence in the 1980s about the Indy cars referred to #22. 

 

Thanks for your post and the great photo of the model. The model may have been one of those used for wind tunnel testing at U of Michigan in 1933. 

 

EDIT:

I jumped to the conclusion that Drawring’s grandfather was Virgil Exner Sr. but that may not be the case. Exner sold the car to Britt Wood of Picqua, OH, who later sold the car back to Studebaker, per a letter from E.T. Reynolds, chief engineer at Studebaker in the 1960s. 

 

Edited June 22, 2022 by Gary_Ash (see edit history)

[Gary_Ash]

Progress is sometimes made in small steps.  Today, I trailered the Indy car to the Mass. Dept. of Transportation's Salvage Inspection Station in Bridgewater, MA where a State Policeman went through my pile of receipts for many items that I purchased to build the car.  They do this to be sure the car isn't made or repaired with stolen parts.  We spent about 30-40 minutes going through everything I brought with me, which was a lot of detail.  The big problem was that I didn't have an actual title or previous registration for the chassis, engine, or body.  In the end, he had to call the head honcho of the division to discuss what to do.  As I had already talked with and emailed the head guy, the state trooper eventually said he would assign a new VIN and would let me call the car a "replica" rather than a kit car or custom.  I placed the new VIN sticker on the inside of the right frame rail and took the signed-off form which stated the inspection had been done.  The state trooper was polite and helpful through the process, said I had lots more documentation than many people who show up there.

 

Then I went on line and downloaded the Mass. "Application for a Title and Registration".  I filled that out and took it to the office of my insurance company, where they put a stamp on it to signify I had insurance coverage.  I drove to the local Mass. Registry of Motor Vehicles service center, but they turned me away because I had not made an appointment online.  But, I had gone online to do that and saw that there was no waiting line - and there wasn't when I got there - but these organizations work (or not) in strange ways.  Back at home, I was able to make an appointment for next week.  I've been at this project for 13 years now, so maybe one more week isn't a big deal.  I would like to get plates on the car before the snow flies in the fall. 

 

At some point, the registry will make a decision about what the value of the car is so that they can tax me on it at 6.25%.  As there are no similar replica cars being sold, I can only wonder how they will arrive at a "book value".   Stay tuned for the next exciting chapter (yawn) in registering the car!

[edinmass]

So far, so good. New drums look great. Having “been there, done that” with the inspection process I would say you are experiencing much less aggravation than most. I went to the floor with them on a tax issue on one of my cars. Long story short they said I would need to go to Boston for a hearing. I showed them the law where I had the right to a hearing in person at the Springfield office……….and refused to leave till I had my hearing……the fact that they didn’t have the position funded in the budget and hadn’t had any hearings there for years was irrelevant. I insisted they keep going up the food chain till finally they agreed to use the copy of my canceled check as a value……….let’s just say I was extremely happy with that number as a basis………score in for the good guys! 

[alsfarms]

Oh man..... ain't it fun.  But hold your line!

[Studemax]

Hang in there, Gary.

[Gary_Ash]

Casey may have struck out in Mudville, but I think I finally hit a home run here.  My visit today to the Mass. Registry of Motor Vehicles finally yielded what I wanted: a title, registration, and license plates.  It wasn't easy and it wasn't quick, as titling and registering a car that didn't exist before is way out of their ordinary routine.  I had to wait an hour after my scheduled appointment time to get to the counter, then it took two clerks to look at the paperwork, discuss how to proceed, and begin the process.  They took my pile of receipts, went off to make copies, and were gone for a long time.  As is usual with government activities, it was all about the money.  They added up all the receipts, including converting the ones in British pounds Sterling to dollars.  In the end, they got to about $20,000 in parts and engine rebuilding services, and charged me about $700 in taxes and fees.  I guess I gave them enough receipts to make them happy.  Ninety minutes later, they handed over a temporary registration and two license plates, title to be mailed to me in 4 to 6 weeks.  The registration does say "1932 Studebaker", model = replica.  

 

The plates I got were for a standard passenger car, but I think I had better get an antique plate or "year of manufacture" plate, if only for insurance purposes.  Now I have 7 days to get the car safety inspected.  I usually take the cars to the local Ford dealer for annual inspections, but I think this one will blow their socks off.  In principle, the car owner isn't allowed to drive the car into the inspection area, but they may have to make an exception this time, as the car isn't easy to drive and large people won't fit.  I'm almost street legal!

[Autofil]

A milestone achived, very good news Gary 🏆😊

[wborh37]

Steps, small steps.   Let us know after the safety inspection.   Got to love it.....   A ford inspecting a Studebaker 

[edinmass]

As a past owner of two Mass inspection stations, I can say you still have more hills to climb. The way the computer entry system works they have to answer pass or fail on windshield wipers(and a bunch of other similar items). The car doesn’t have them, so they’re gonna have to call in while the car is in the bay. So take it in during the middle of the month when they are not too busy on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Also make sure you explain to them that the car was just inspected by the state police and was approved. That’ll help. Most likely the registry will call Michael, the field service judge for the entire state inspection stations. His nick name is “Iron Mike”. Entirely possible that they ask you to bring it to the station on a given day and location so he can personally inspect it. 
 

PS- I inspected a 1897 car at my place…….the system wouldn’t take the 1800’s number. Took two hours to get past that. No windshield, no place to attach a plate, no place to put the sticker, the list was endless. Took three days and about seven hours work…….it was for a friend, so I didn’t mind. In the end, we got it done, including a permit to drive the car in the state of Massachusetts without a license plate displayed. The good news was they were willing to work with us. Hope your experience is positive and easy. 👍

Edited July 13, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Gary_Ash]

"We don't need no stinkin' windshield or wipers!"  At least that's what I'll tell the inspection station.  But, your advice is good, Ed.  I'll have to take the car in this week, as I nominally have only 7 days to get it inspected.  I've got my fingers crossed that they don't give me a hard time.  To mount the sticker, I have a piece of Plexiglas slightly larger than a sticker hung under the dash, since the sticker usually is adhered to the inside of the windshield.

Here are the Mass. inspection regulations:  https://www.mass.gov/files/documents/2017/09/27/540cmr4.pdf

 

I did buy a 1932 Mass. license plate on Ebay to use as "year of manufacture" so as not to risk having my antique car insurance brought into question.  I'll need to take that to the Registry to have them inspect it and approve it.  I've done this before without any problems - the paint just needs to be decent and not restored.  I actually bought a pair of plates, so I may have the 2nd one repainted, will only need one plate on the back of the car.  

 

Inspection sticker holder at red arrow.

[edinmass]

4.02: Referee station………..page 4. Your introduction to Iron Mike? 🤔

 

Actually, you should probably give each call. Bypassing the VID questions and the camera in the bay that is live while looking for exemptions will probably set off red flags. Since the car is basically a open wheeled vehicle, they may have issues with no fenders. 

[Gary_Ash]

Here's my "out" on the fenders.  My registration does say 1932.  Anyway, there is that "if" statement... 

 

4.04.12(b)
Fenders. Front and rear fenders must be in place on all vehicles manufactured after model year 1949 if such vehicles were designed and manufactured to be operated with front and rear fenders. Every passenger motor vehicle under 10,000 lbs. (GVWR) , except four wheel drive vehicles which are equipped with tires which extend beyond the fenders or body of such vehicle shall be equipped with flaps or suitable guards to reduce such spray or splash to the rear and side.

[edinmass]

Problem is the computer system has a verification spot for each fender, And the inspector must guarantee that they are in place, and have no sharp or protruding edges. The entire mass state inspection system is a very big gray area. They never give the car owner of the benefit of the doubt.  Please understand the inspection station is paying $1700 a month to lease the machine. That doesn’t include his employees that are on hand to run the system. Any violation or gray area will shut him down for 30, 60 or 90 days.(Think like selling booze to a minor, it’s a public hearing and things tend to get ugly for violating the terms.) Many stations will see a car like yours pull in and tell you they refused to do the service.  On the car like that they are within their rights. I had a special station for Hampden county, that works both with the state police and the registry of motor vehicles. I also had to test data inspection machine in my business nine months ahead of the rest of the state. I had a pretty tight relationship with them, as my father was honorary RMV ambassador to the RV, Boat, and Harbor Masters for 15 years. Feel free to call me if you want some detailed advice. It’s worth what you’re paying for it but I think I can give you some insights that you won’t anticipate. Ed

[Gary_Ash]

I'm trying to get everything sorted out on the car before taking it in for state safety inspection on Monday.  I think I got the carbs synched pretty well, took a lot of fiddling to set the throttle positions alike.  Then it needed to have a way to set the idle speed from under the hood, which I had failed to provide.  I bent a little angle piece from some flat steel, welded on a 1/4-20 nut and screwed a bolt into it with a lock nut, then attached it to the firewall under an existing bolt.  The adjustment bolt head contacts a pin on the carb actuator shaft, so I can get fine adjustments on how far the throttles are open for idle.  It may take a couple of tries as the idle speed increased as the engine warmed up.  With the engine idling I was able to finally put the timing light on it and set the distributor timing at 14 degrees.  There is no vacuum advance installed, it's all mechanical.  

 

I summoned my courage and drove up the road for the first time ever.  I went up to the fire house, about 1/2 mile, turned around in their driveway, and came home.  The steering was a little squirrely, so I'll have to check toe-in, but all in all, it was a successful first drive.  I can only imagine what the other drivers thought when they saw me coming along the road.  The fun begins!

[alsfarms]

Well said and well earned!

Al

[Gary_Ash]

I fiddled with the new idle adjust screw, think I got it set well enough.  Idle is about 800-1000 rpm.  I adjusted the tie rod to bring the wheels more nearly parallel with the Coker Stahl Sport radial tires.  It worked better, though the brakes may need a little adjusting to prevent pulling to one side.  If this is as bad as it gets, these are issues I can deal with easily.  I drove farther up our rural road today, the steering not so squirrely.  With the 3.31:1 rear axle and 7.00-18 rear tires, the engine just barely wants to be out of first gear but doesn't want to be in third gear at 30 mph - I'll save that for the highway.   Maybe I put three more miles on the car.  I think I'm ready for the inspection station tomorrow, just hope it doesn't rain, fingers crossed.  It is like driving a beast, lots of torque, and plenty of acceleration.  Maybe tomorrow I'll be on a highway with 65 mph speed limits.  At this point, it's almost scary - but good scary!   

[wborh37]

waiting for a successful report