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  1. The design solutions either with steel bushings (not common to my knowledge) or the older style bronze bushings all comes down to the philosophy of which part to wear out first. Common is a hardened pin/bolt in combination with a softer material which also add some sort of softness to the equation of the moving joint. I have myself fabricated replacement bushings in bearing bronze for my 35 Stude truck, which can easily be reamed to fit the bolt/pin very nicely. As Gary have added means for lubrication, so did I. This is a field proven solution before the auto manufacturers changed over to the more common steel/rubber/steel vulcanised versions of today. On the GTHawks the outer king pins are type of round threads with matching caps. Those are actually steel against steel...
  2. Very nice to follow your progress. That cowl is really showing off the hard work you are putting into it. Thank you Gary ?
  3. Excellent cockpit skin, really nice to see the result from some late hours with some skilled metal masters. A inspiration for many of us. Keep the Studebaker racing legacy alive :-)
  4. Do anyone have unused or nicely used rim clamps for Clark Spider Wheels? Used on many applications in the 30s. This is for a 1935 Studebaker truck. Uses 6 x 4 clamps. fastening bolt 1/2". Interested to buy. Thanks! Robert NJ
  5. Tom, I am interested. Can you send a few pictures to my email, and confirm the threads size to be the magic 3.125"-16 UN? My email: Thanks!
  6. I think electrolytic is better in that sense. It will only remove rust, not the conductive material. An balance the solution pH level yes.
  7. That is how soft it gets. The thing is that for molasses, when the rust is gone, the active part of the molasses will continue processing the iron. For regular iron parts, the material loss is fairly limited. For gray cast iron, the molasses will remove the iron structure in the surface of the parts, leaving only the non-corrosive elements of the cast iron, which are soft and brittle. I will assume the same process was initiated with the ZEP industrial rust remover. I lesson learned indeed.
  8. Equipped with my big IBC container (260 gallon) converted for molasses rust removal, I have done several rust strip batches of various rusted truck parts. With a 1:10 molasses/water mixture, soak time has been 2-3 weeks heated to 100 degrees F. I have noticed that regular cast iron get very clean, but may loose the smooth surface finish. The same goes for regular steel. Machined surfaces maintain a smooth appearance. The big mistake and a even bigger jump in my learning curve came today; picking up the last batch consisting of rare/hard to find parts for my 1935 Studebaker truck build. The clutch housing and the water pump housing was obviously casted in the popular gray cast iron. Despite being popular among automotive design engineers, the material do not react very well with molasses.... Big mistake! Graphitic Corrosion in Grey Cast Iron is the terminology. Approximately a 1/32" thickness of the normally solid material hits a weak spot; getting soft and very much like the graphite of your pencil. You can scrape the surface of the casting, and it will leave a new harder surface beneath. All details like machined surfaces gets wobbly or flaking, and once cleaned up, the details are gone (at least the tight tolerances). Fine threads are gone too. I will be able to save the clutch housing, even if it means to re-surface the mating surfaces. The water pump....not really sure, I may need to re-manufacture some details as a minimum.... A tough lesson learned..... Mechanical rust removal, OK. Chemical rust removal, a completely different ballgame.
  9. That is correct. While the design is very much the same, the trucks used a larger thread base due to the larger bearing cups size. I have seen re-manufactured caps, unfortunately not for sale, but installed on a few trucks. The original material is fairly soft aluminium, great for durability, not very great due to the softness. They did or do tend to slip the threads....
  10. I have spoken with Bill, a very nice gentleman, we had a long talk. His 2T2 and 2M2 is very interesting trucks, but he do not have what I am looking for. Unfortunately. Thank you for leading me to this Studebaker and Diamond T resource, we had actually many common friends :-)
  11. Any Delco Remy starters? A 718V for a 1931 standard six or similar would be great. Thanks!