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Autofil

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  1. You guys are really getting hard worked progress in the shortest time; what a marvel this is coming to be!! 👏 Wish I had that progress!
  2. A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from Studebaker friends in Norway!
  3. Very good Gary, this is one favorite built. Only thing is the vertical mounted front braking cylinders; you will get some challenges getting the air frome these. You may even need to remove them from the car to fill em and vent em before returning them back leaving the brake hose attached and blocked. I tried vacuum venting and it is not very optimal on classic rubber cup based brake cylinders since the seal technology allows air to re-enter if vaccum gets prominent on the hydraulic side. Robert
  4. Just fabulous work Gary👌 I enjoy every single update you post as this is an inspiration for most of us car/truck nuts. Keep up the quality work and pace. Thank you, Robert, Norway
  5. Hi, Just for your info. I notice this is a cast or at forged iron, and an attempt to weld repair the same. If not a replacement is found, there will be no problem to weld or braze this properly together. For cast iron, I have used bronze brazing many times on highly strained parts with great success. Robert
  6. The design solutions either with steel bushings (not common to my knowledge) or the older style bronze bushings all comes down to the philosophy of which part to wear out first. Common is a hardened pin/bolt in combination with a softer material which also add some sort of softness to the equation of the moving joint. I have myself fabricated replacement bushings in bearing bronze for my 35 Stude truck, which can easily be reamed to fit the bolt/pin very nicely. As Gary have added means for lubrication, so did I. This is a field proven solution before the auto manufacturers changed over to the
  7. Very nice to follow your progress. That cowl is really showing off the hard work you are putting into it. Thank you Gary ?
  8. Excellent cockpit skin, really nice to see the result from some late hours with some skilled metal masters. A inspiration for many of us. Keep the Studebaker racing legacy alive :-)
  9. Do anyone have unused or nicely used rim clamps for Clark Spider Wheels? Used on many applications in the 30s. This is for a 1935 Studebaker truck. Uses 6 x 4 clamps. fastening bolt 1/2". Interested to buy. Thanks! Robert NJ
  10. Tom, I am interested. Can you send a few pictures to my email, and confirm the threads size to be the magic 3.125"-16 UN? My email: studebakerkid2000@yahoo.no Thanks!
  11. I think electrolytic is better in that sense. It will only remove rust, not the conductive material. An balance the solution pH level yes.
  12. That is how soft it gets. The thing is that for molasses, when the rust is gone, the active part of the molasses will continue processing the iron. For regular iron parts, the material loss is fairly limited. For gray cast iron, the molasses will remove the iron structure in the surface of the parts, leaving only the non-corrosive elements of the cast iron, which are soft and brittle. I will assume the same process was initiated with the ZEP industrial rust remover. I lesson learned indeed.
  13. Equipped with my big IBC container (260 gallon) converted for molasses rust removal, I have done several rust strip batches of various rusted truck parts. With a 1:10 molasses/water mixture, soak time has been 2-3 weeks heated to 100 degrees F. I have noticed that regular cast iron get very clean, but may loose the smooth surface finish. The same goes for regular steel. Machined surfaces maintain a smooth appearance. The big mistake and a even bigger jump in my learning curve came today; picking up the last batch consisting of rare/hard to find parts for my 1935 Stude
  14. That is correct. While the design is very much the same, the trucks used a larger thread base due to the larger bearing cups size. I have seen re-manufactured caps, unfortunately not for sale, but installed on a few trucks. The original material is fairly soft aluminium, great for durability, not very great due to the softness. They did or do tend to slip the threads....
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