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  1. And this particular one was really seized on the flywheel πŸ˜†
  2. I agree with Bloo and yourself. It all comes down to clearances on how you orient, in or out, the clutch plate assy. It is very likely that the protruding splined boss interfered the release collar enough to limit thrust bearing travel and subsequently disc slippage needed. Even this is a different Studebaker engine and clutch assy used on a 35’ Studebaker 1T241 truck, you can see the short boss side and spring assy being installed away from engine equally as your illustration.
  3. By the way, the picture of the clutch housing with shaft installed show the thrust bearing retainer/slider with the small spring turned backwards, if it was installed this way, the thrust bearing may not see the correct load applied. The spring on the picture shall be behind the retainer/slider, not visually as shown. See the Studebaker manual cut-thru.
  4. Gary, It might be bonded, but if the storage has not been to humid, this is not very likely. I assume you have a change in resistance once thrust bearing is loaded by clutch linkage, and that the clutch interaction push force increase for the given travel. If no sense of the typical spring resistance, then you may have either a range issue as David pointed out, or some internal mechanics fault. Last is that the clutch pressure plate assy can be adjusted on each coil spring vs lever vs pin screw. I assume the clutch has the same features as my 35’ truck with the Champion truck engine. It looks very similar. If so, there might be a need to adjust this to get the optimal thrust bearing contact and position to release the clutch. Especially if your range in the linkage and actual shaft movement or mis aligned/not optimal. just my input.
  5. Quite a bit of work to access the pin hole. For the invert socket pipe plug and installation, just ensure sufficient time to allow the sealant cement to dry up prior filling with coolant. And not to over tightening the plug causing a abnormal local stress hotspot. And I am sure you will top up the engine collant system before re-assembly. Just to be on the good side.
  6. Sorry to read this Gary. This kind of show stoppers are not easy to accept when your are at the very end of a great build. Kind of weird that a third dowelpin has been specified by Studebaker beyond the two common pins on each side of the bellhousing. Any attempt to remove pin without removing bellhousing/transmission are probably not optimal, especially if a threaded plug are to be installed. Pin is hardened and from the pictures not really accessible without removal as described. I would go for a NPT or any similar coned plug prepared with liquid sealant. Use a brass version based on the remaining non-cast iron accessories on your engine to avoid the post-issues having something acting up materialvice on the corrosion side. At least you got this alert early, not later when engine was hot any you had enjoyed the thrill of speeding about the track somewhere. And you are getting really good tinkering the cars mechanics. Even if this is one bad feeling now, it builds character. We all know from experiences. To well Gary. You will fix thisπŸ‘
  7. Oboy, I thought you guys lived in the U.S.A where everything are allowed in the entusiast automotive world. Sounds more like Norway all over; rules and regulations.... Best advice; get all required b&w correctly done accoding to regulations, after approval; remove the unwanted elements and enjoy the wind in the hair down the road hauling ass in a 1932 Studebaker. No one will have second thoughts, by the looks it is original built by Studebaker.....by spec it is πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘Œ
  8. With the foot force vs finger force action, this will work very well Gary. It is much better to have sufficient spring force connected to ensure easy throttle return. Looks very nice!
  9. That was a sad ending. I hope #46 will re-surface and are taken care of in the same spirit as Mr.Kunz. Some times we connect with particular interesting individuals over our belowed Studebakers. Same did I as my 1935 ACE truck journey stumbled into a to come dear friend of mine, Jim Proffit. I am very glad I was able to visit him and his wife in Poland (ex-american) before he unfortunately passed away in 2018. An very special mechanic (by his own terms), his legacy surpass the term in many many ways. He had several driving and mechanic experience for Brooks Stevens 33 Studebaker Indy car #34 when Brooks owned the car. Not too far from your 32. Prowd to have gotten to know and meet the gentleman. Too bad these relations never last. Hope it is ok to share a picture of Jim in his favourite element; speeding!
  10. You guys are really getting hard worked progress in the shortest time; what a marvel this is coming to be!! πŸ‘ Wish I had that progress!
  11. A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from Studebaker friends in Norway!
  12. Very good Gary, this is one favorite built. Only thing is the vertical mounted front braking cylinders; you will get some challenges getting the air frome these. You may even need to remove them from the car to fill em and vent em before returning them back leaving the brake hose attached and blocked. I tried vacuum venting and it is not very optimal on classic rubber cup based brake cylinders since the seal technology allows air to re-enter if vaccum gets prominent on the hydraulic side. Robert
  13. Just fabulous work GaryπŸ‘Œ I enjoy every single update you post as this is an inspiration for most of us car/truck nuts. Keep up the quality work and pace. Thank you, Robert, Norway
  14. Hi, Just for your info. I notice this is a cast or at forged iron, and an attempt to weld repair the same. If not a replacement is found, there will be no problem to weld or braze this properly together. For cast iron, I have used bronze brazing many times on highly strained parts with great success. Robert
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