Question regarding small part refresh

[Eric's.64.Superwildcat]

Hi guys,

I have the '64 down for the season and I'm dismantling and cleaning various parts. As I remove various nuts, bolts, brackets and other small parts I've been cleaning them with my Dremel tool (or bench grinder) and refreshing them. Usually this means spraying it with black primer and then Eastwood's GM Chassis Black paint. However, I'm not sure I'm doing the right thing. I've recently looked into a metal blackening system (basically a phosphate etching system) from Eastwood located here: http://www.eastwood.com/metal-blackening-system-set.html.

I'm looking for the expertise on this board. My question is as follows: Which is the best process to use to ensure the parts look great and have the best rust resistance once back in service?

1. Clean parts with dremel tool and replace them without further action

2. Clean parts with dremel tool and continue doing what I'm doing (rattle can primer and GM Chassis black)

3. Clean parts with dremel and use a phosphate etching system such as the one referenced above

Thanks.

[RockinRiviDad]

By no means am I the "expertise on this forum" as u requested advise from. I'm just an average joe learning as I go. So I hope u don't mind my opinion.

That etching stuff looks cool. I would've tried that if I saw it before I went my route. I've been using the rattle can method & brush on stuff.

In any case it all depends on the route you wanna take…stick to 100% stock & original or just clean it up to look sharp?

Whatever route u choose I'm sure it'll look good. Probably not the answer your looking for but pride in your ride shows with any amount on elbow grease.

David

Edited December 26, 2013 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

[Guest Rob J]

As somebody whose done his fair share of restorations, nothing beats a good quality bead blast cabinet setup when it comes to cleaning and restoring parts. It involves an investment in equipment, but well worth it IMO. The most costly (and important) part of the equation is a good quality Air Compressor. Last year I broke down and bought a 5 HP 60 Gallon Quincy Compressor, and am ecstatic with it. It runs my blast cabinet with ease. I can't tell you how happy I am with this setup.

Regarding refinishes, I use a combination of powder coating, and various types of Eastwood detail and chassis paints. For satin black, I have been using Rust-Oleum 7777 Satin black, and am very impressed with it. It does take a while to dry and harden, but the sheen is perfect for many under hood items, and it's a very economical paint.

HTH, Rob.

[RIVNIK]

Excellent photo-documentation, Rob!!

[JZRIV]

Unless you're shooting for a concourse restoration where your car will be judged under the utmost scrutiny, keep doing what you are doing. You may need to take a small brush and touch up the bolt head after tightening with a wrench as small pieces of paint can chip off.

Black or dark gray phosphate plating was used for many fasteners. My personal opinion is phosphate was the cheapest and weakest form of corrosion protection and really only needed to last long enough to prevent rust until the car was assembled and sold. On cars that were driven regularly in the rust belt areas of the country this plating had a very short life span.

I simulate dark gray/black phosphate plating on fasteners by using dark grey primer (not black, but almost) and then a finish coat of satin or flat clear. Once you experiment a bit you can get a finsh that is very hard to differentiate from the real phosphate and it will last longer IMO.

[Guest Rob J]

What Jason said.

Even though it's a bit more expensive using this paint than what Jason uses, this is what I have used with good results. And, as Jason stated, it lasts a long time.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-zinc-phosphate-aerosol.html

[RivNut]

Hi guys;

1. Clean parts with dremel tool and replace them without further action

Thanks.

If you take the proper precautions, you can easily remove rust from nuts, bolts, etc. by letting the soak for a few minutes in muriatic acid. Do it outside on a windy day so the fumes from the acid don't get on (metal) or into anything (lungs) then rinse them well and dry them. Use what ever you want to coat them for the final finish.

[Eric's.64.Superwildcat]

Thanks to all.

I've decided to stick with my current method. Jason's rationale regarding the original purpose of the phosphate finishing was convincing, and Ed's precautions for using muriatic acid were borderline scary. :-)

I may experiment a bit by trying the Rust-oleum 7777 black only because I've heard so many people recommend it, and I may try a clear coat to tweak the gloss level and, possibly, the hardness of the outermost coat.

As usual, thank you very much for the advice.

[RockinRiviDad]

Two thumps up. I'm a Rustoleum 7777 user too & love it

David

[slosteve]

So I went to Home Depot today to get some 7777. Does it come in a rattlecan? I couldn't find it. :confused:

[Guest Rob J]

Yes, it comes in a rattle can, as well as a quart and gallon size. I buy it at my local Home Depot, and they always have plenty of rattle can stock. Look again.

[RockinRiviDad]

Slosteve, I had the same problem when I first went looking for it. If your looking for the number 7777 on the can (like I was) it's not on the face of the rattle cans like it is on the quarts. Look on the sticker affixed to the back of Rustoleum Satin rattle cans. That's how the Home Depots in my area label them.

David

[Guest Rob J]

That's the stuff. It is amazingly good paint, especially given the price. Please note that it does take about 30 days for it to harden completely, and prior to that 30 days, freshly painted parts must be handled with care.

[RockinRiviDad]

Rob J, I agree…great paint. Cold weather here in So Cal really isn't anything like the cold weather u guys experience. But when I tried using this paint in cold weather it seems the satin sheen comes out glossier than normal. So I found that shaking the can a good 3-5 mins prior to spraying in cold weather is what it takes to get it right.

David

[Guest Rob J]

Cold weather here in Miami, FL????? It was in the 80's today….

[RockinRiviDad]

LOL wow…yea we had high's of 72 today

David

Edited January 22, 2014 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

[Eric's.64.Superwildcat]

I finally picked up the Rust-Oleum 7777 satin black and I had a chance to use it on some small parts. I like it MUCH better than the Eastwood GM Chassis Black. I like the finish much better and it is half the price. I'm officially a convert.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.

[Guest Rob J]

We'll send you the bill, as a commission on the money we are saving you.

[JZRIV]

So I went to Home Depot today to get some 7777. Does it come in a rattlecan? I couldn't find it. :confused:

All the Walmart stores in my area carry the spray can, always have a good stock and its the least expensive.