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Stupid question...


Guest Minispdrcr

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Guest Minispdrcr

I know this is a simple answer. But I just want to make sure I get the correct piece

What goes here, of course talking about the hole

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Guest NikeAjax

A gonkutated-phranistan...DUH! Actually, that's where the snorkel to vent the crank-case goes: it's a tube that goes to the bottom of the car and when the car moves, the oil-vapors are drawn off. I took mine out and replaced it with a PCV (positive crank-case vent, or, pollution control valve).

OH, and BTW, that's NOT a stupid question bruddah: a stupid question is more like, "What is Justin Bebier's favorite color..."

Jaybird

Edited by NikeAjax (see edit history)
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It should stay open.

Unless you put in a pvc system.

The draft tube that is supposed to be there has a goose neck and extends straight down to the bottom of the car, with a bologna cut on the end that draws out the vapors as the car goes down the road (venturi effect)

Don't close it off, it's needs to stay open so the vapors in the crankcase can get out.

Unless you put in pvc system, then the vapors are sucked into the intake and burned and sent out the tailpipe.

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Guest Minispdrcr

So it's ok just sitting open like that on top? Or should I get something like the tube?

Another question

How do the vacuum lines hook up to the bottom of the fuel pump?

Edited by Minispdrcr (see edit history)
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Guest Minispdrcr

Oh I didn't see your reply Jaybird. I have a 1955.

What I meant by the second time is, if it's ok just venting out on top like that or should I try to get a tube that goes to the bottom.

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Guest NikeAjax

Gosh, if you don't know: you don't know... that's why were here, to learn--ask away!

What I did was to drill a hole into my air-cleaner, put a brass fitting on that to accept a hose: run that hose to the crank-case-port. You can put a PCV-valve:

Pcv_valve_1.jpg

on the other end, then find something to fill the space between the wall of the port and the valve. It's really pretty simple! Not only does it help with pollutants, it also keeps oil-fumes from wafting around in your engine compartment: once those settle, they collect dirt--FAST!

Jaybird

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Guest NikeAjax

Yes, you could use they snorkel, but go with the PCV-valve: it's much, much cleaner! Those fumes will deposit on the underside of the car--ICK! See the schmootz right above the port, that will be on the bottom of the car, on the tranny muffler, etc!

Jaybird

Edited by NikeAjax (see edit history)
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Would you leave your oil fill cap off? Of course not. You can't leave that open hole into the engine either because water, trash, leaves, anything can fall in there. Put the road draft tube on it so the system can work.

A PCV system is designed to suck fumes out of the engine , thru the PCV valve and into the intake manifold. When you do that you also have to provide a filtered air inlet to the engine so it doesn't suck in dirt. Normally the filtered air was sourced thru a screen or filter, most were filtered at the air cleaner housing with a small filter clipped in place inside the housing on the prefiltered side of the main element.

The road draft tube system used the filler cap to filter the dirty air from entering the engine. That cap has a wire mesh in it. If you convert the system to a PCV, you need to consider that the road draft tube will then become an inlet to the crankcase instead of an outlet and will suck dirt unless modified to filter the air.

Just install the road draft tube and be done with it.

TJ55

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If you put a proper sized grommet in the draft tube hole, you then put the PVC valve there.

The air could enter through the mesh in the oil filler cap.

That could keep the air flowing in the original direction.

And close off the offending hole

Keen idea! Adjust the idle mixture to compensate.

There is only an 1/8" npt port on the intake manifold with a tee for booster and vacuum pump/wiper connection, is that enough and will it affect those accessories? I wonder if you would need another hole in the intake?

The PCV has a limited flow and is orificed, I personally think that the road draft tube would be more efficient at venting blowby on an old worn engine under load. If the road draft is closed off, all excess blowby will have to exit thru the filler cap.

Just sayin'.......

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Guest Minispdrcr

Well might as well keep up with this thread lol

When installing the booster. Do you take silver nuts off or put it on like I just have?

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Did you just place the holes anywhere?

Holes would best be at the bottom. I essentially mutilated mine trying to get a previously working unit back to working again and am still looking for a more suitable boot. Check with your rebuilder, or just install and if the brakes stay applied, the chop some holes or replace.

Willie

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