'63 Wildcat 4 speed console shifter?

[JJorgensen52]

Hello,

I am looking into the details of converting my Wildcat to a manual transmission, hunting down linkages and pedals is proving a challenge!

Anyway, I would consider, since I do very much enjoy driving my classics, installing an overdrive transmission (Probably Tremec TKO-600). In doing some basic comparison, it looks like even the most rearward shifter location on a 5 speed overdrive is too far forward for a console equipped Wildcat.

Is there anyone here who has a 4 speed console shift car that could provide some insight to this? I know a BW T10 isn't longer than a TKO, and I'm curious how they mounted the shifter and linkage to achieve the proper location.

Thanks in advance!

[Pete Phillips]

What a beautiful New Hampshire scene in your photo--I love N.H.

I have a '63 Wildcat 4-speed car, but have lost the foot pedals somewhere among the 4 or 5 welding and paint shops that the car has been in over the past 6 years. So, that's what I am looking for. Have chased several leads, but to no avail yet. My car does not have the console, but rather, the floor plate showing the shift pattern and covering the hole in the transmission tunnel. The few Wildcat 4-speeds came with or without consoles. Good luck in your search. If you find two sets of pedals, let me know!

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

[NTX5467]

Many of the later model manual transmissions have the shifter on the top of the transmission case, like the old (and more modern) truck manual transmissions. The transmissions used in cars (with floor shifts, in the middle-50s and newer), though, have a remote-mounted shifter with external rods to activate the gear selection activity. Keisler has done some 5-speed manual conversions for Mopar muscle cars and checking out their website might offer some guidance in how it all works. There will be some issues with driveshaft length and such, plus getting the correct yoke to interface between the driveshaft and the output shaft of the transmission . . . plus the related u-joint sizing/adaptation issues. Nothing a competent driveshaft shop can't do, though.

Remember, too, if you're going to use an OverDrive manual transmission (5-speed OD, for example), you'll need at least a 3.42 rear axle ratio, with 3.73 being an alternative. Otherwise, you'll not be able to use the OD gear except at 70+mph, especially with a carbureted engine. Additionally, you'll also need the necessary clutch linkage mechanisms to go from the foot pedal to the transmission (which possibly can be sourced from Chevy Impala or similar Pontiac models), unless you're going to use a hydraulic clutch mechanism, which will only require the related clutch master cylinder and some tubing/flex lines to the clutch release bearing assembly. For general principles, you might check the online catalog for "Chevy Impala" from Classic Industries, or get one of their print catalogs (over 700 pages, I suspect, as the one for my '77 Camaro is). They have the clutch/brake pedal "hanging" assembly, plus many of the related items to "make it work" . . . some of which might also cross-over with Camaros and such, too.

IF you now have an automatic tranmission, be advised that the "transmission hump" will probably need to be enlarged for the manual transmission installation. Some of that stuff might also have similarities to similar Impalas, too, or at least close enough you could graft them into place and it work reasonably well. Check out the "floorpan section" of the Classic Industries catalog for more visual information (I suspect there are only a few actual suppliers of such stamped sheet metal, but many who sell the same things as vendors, so shopping for price and quality are necessary).

Take care and keep us posted on your project's progress.

I concur, that is a beatiful picture!

NTX5467

[Guest wildcat465]

The 4 speed shifter in 63 and 64's for console equipped cars came out of the same spot that the automatic shifter lived. Note the funny angle, you mostly lift to shift from 1st to 2nd.

Thusly, this Rube Goldberg device is what was used to connect your hand to the transmission. Note the length of those shift rods.

Buick felt that the contruction of this shifter would be best left to these guys:

If you really want to change your car to a stick, finding the right parts will be the biggest challenge if you are looking for a factory look.

If factory look is not important, well then, all you need is an imagination and cubic dollars.

Enjoy your car either way.

[JJorgensen52]

The 4 speed shifter in 63 and 64's for console equipped cars came out of the same spot that the automatic shifter lived. Note the funny angle, you mostly lift to shift from 1st to 2nd.

Thusly, this Rube Goldberg device is what was used to connect your hand to the transmission. Note the length of those shift rods.

Buick felt that the contruction of this shifter would be best left to these guys:

If you really want to change your car to a stick, finding the right parts will be the biggest challenge if you are looking for a factory look.

If factory look is not important, well then, all you need is an imagination and cubic dollars.

Enjoy your car either way.

That is very helpful!!

Is there any chance you have a photo of what they did to the floor pan to clear the transmission? Also, a closer up shot of the shift pattern plate that replaces the shift indicator.

I'm looking to maintain at least the factory shifter location. I've got a pretty good idea how to achieve that with the TKO trans and some remote shift linkage. I have also crawled around under the dash and it looks like adding the clutch pedal is feasible, since the automatic bracket has holes conveniently placed where the clutch pedal should pass through (albeit they need to be enlarged, but they're there).

The biggest hang-up point seems to be the linkage itself - I see basically no way around the method Buick used, given that I want to keep a mechanical clutch. I guess the hunt for a 3 speed LeSabre continues!

[Lapham3]

James-I think a fair amount of these parts survive as others were in the 'gonna do some that day' mindset-for a goodly number, that day hasn't happened yet! Still, getting those guys to part with the goodies will be hard and the $ required will be high-good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn.

[NTX5467]

That's the first picture I've seen of that shifter. Thanks Wildcat465. The earlier Ford Cobras had a shifter that was of a similar "angle", as I recall. I suspect that, in the Cobra's case, it was because the end of the trans was pretty much between the seats, whereas on the Buick, it's "up yonder, somewhere".

If you want to see what it takes to put a mechanical-linkage clutch pedal mechanism where it didn't originally exist . . . you might find the Buick parts manual in the www.wildaboutcarsonline.com website. In the "Publications" area, as I recall, but I could be wrong. Having the clutch pedal is just the FIRST thing you'll need! Past that, there are crossshafts with bellcranks, pushrods, with brackets and bearings to keep it all in alignment and working freely. Probably a collection of about 20 different part numbers, by the time you're finished . . . which makes the need for a 3-speed manual donor car very important.

One other thing I was thinking about today, regarding your proposed transmission swap, was how it might affect the ultimate value of the vehicle in the future. Certainly, a manual transmission in a Buick, where very few were built with 3-speeds, much less 4-speeds, back then, would certainly be "something different" AND could very well change the general feel of the vehicle itself, finding an enthusiast who might share your desire for a 4-speed Wildcat might be more difficult than you might suspect. Especially a "modified" car situation, rather than original factory-produced. To me, the level of execution of the swap would be very important, IF I might be a potential buyer.

Another route to the improved performance you obviously seek would be a 1965 Wildcat, with the GM Turbo 400 automatic in it. As I understand it, that was the first year for a THM400 behind a NailHead V-8, switch-pitch, too. Or, you might find a "built" THM200-4R that could be adapted to the NailHead, too. Advantage of the THM200 family would be "more power to the pavement" through less power consumption in the trans between the flywheel and driveshaft. I believe the THM200-4R conversions are well-covered in the Riviera Forum. The THM200 also has a 2.75 low gear ratio rather than the 2.48 of the THM400, plus the .75 OD gear ratio. I suspect this type of swap/upgrade might be ultimately more saleable, when the time might come, than even a well-done manual transmission converson . . . especially in a "luxury brand" vehicle.

Another side issue is that if somebody might desire to install some sort of remote-start keyless entry/alarm system, you can't do that with a manual transmission, but you can with an automatic.

Past that, it gets into individual sensitivities reagarding "clutch use" and ease of changing transmission fluid rather than clutch friction plates . . . to each their own. Your car, your dreams, your visions, your money.

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[1965rivgs]

Pretty sure the LeSabre manual shift setup was "light duty" compared to the Wildcat. I might have the years confused but a quick check in the shop manual or `63 parts manual would indicate so. Paul, great pics. Have anymore?

Tom Mooney

[JJorgensen52]

Pretty sure the LeSabre manual shift setup was "light duty" compared to the Wildcat. I might have the years confused but a quick check in the shop manual or `63 parts manual would indicate so. Paul, great pics. Have anymore?

Tom Mooney

From my '63 Fullsize shop manual, it indicates the 4400 (LeSabre) and 4600 (Wildcat) use the same linkage arrangement. Which is totally wild compared to anything else I've dealt with!

[NTX5467]

As "wild" as it might seem, that's pretty much the same design GM used on ALL of their clutch pedal linkages from when they went to hydraulic clutches in the later 1980s light trucks BACK into the 1960s, and prior on the cars. It doesn't look quite so onerous in real life, though, but having ALL of the pieces is important. A related KEY thing is that one of the ballstuds which that crossshaft pivots on is attached to the engine block, with the other end attached to a bracket on the frame rail. It IS a reliable and durable design, though. There are some consumable items in the mix, too.

As for "light duty" and "heavy duty" clutch linkages, no such thing that I've ever seen in GM. It's a pretty robust system, even with upgraded pressure plates and such for racing applications, I don't recall anybody needing something heavier . . . other than a scatter shield.

Just some thoughts . . .

NTX5467

[JJorgensen52]

As "wild" as it might seem, that's pretty much the same design GM used on ALL of their clutch pedal linkages from when they went to hydraulic clutches in the later 1980s light trucks BACK into the 1960s, and prior on the cars. It doesn't look quite so onerous in real life, though, but having ALL of the pieces is important. A related KEY thing is that one of the ballstuds which that crossshaft pivots on is attached to the engine block, with the other end attached to a bracket on the frame rail. It IS a reliable and durable design, though. There are some consumable items in the mix, too.

As for "light duty" and "heavy duty" clutch linkages, no such thing that I've ever seen in GM. It's a pretty robust system, even with upgraded pressure plates and such for racing applications, I don't recall anybody needing something heavier . . . other than a scatter shield.

Just some thoughts . . .

NTX5467

Perhaps I am wrong, but this appears to be entirely different than other cars that I've seen. Both of my trucks are manuals, and they have the standard Chevy arrangement: Clutch pedal pushes link through firewall, which rotates the Z-bar (pivoting on the frame and the engine block), and there's a second, horizontal pushrod with a length adjustment that sits into the clutch fork.

This car, the clutch pushrod goes through the floor, and pulls UP on an equalizer bar, which then rotates a radius pivot shaft that passes through the bellhousing and also holds the throwout bearing. I believe this is similar to how most 1970s and 1980s Fords work, except they use a cable?

[Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel]

Hi James, how is your project going?

all the parts required for a "factory" swap are pretty difficult to find but they are out there. Matt Menges had some parts but he is a hoarder like me. My 65's have the same bell housing and the linkage is similar, when the clutch is pushed the linkage moves downward, thru the firewall, rotates a cast iron z-bar that is connected to the shaft through the bell housing. So, the car I am still in the process of converting to a 5- speed has a hydraulic thro out bearing. I found pedals from a heavy Chevy impala that fit with some modificaCheers tedCheers ted

[JJorgensen52]

Hi James, how is your project going?

all the parts required for a "factory" swap are pretty difficult to find but they are out there. Matt Menges had some parts but he is a hoarder like me. My 65's have the same bell housing and the linkage is similar, when the clutch is pushed the linkage moves downward, thru the firewall, rotates a cast iron z-bar that is connected to the shaft through the bell housing. So, the car I am still in the process of converting to a 5- speed has a hydraulic thro out bearing. I found pedals from a heavy Chevy impala that fit with some modification Cheers ted

Well no wonder I can't find the parts, haha!

My project is on hold at the moment, I'm in the middle of building a new garage for this car and the new Buick project my brother is going to be working on, as well. Quite the undertaking!

What year Impala, do you know? I was given to understand from some information I found elsewhere that the pedals should be similar between the Impala and the Buick in that year, or at least close enough to be made to work.

[TOPCAT]

I have pedals and linkage from a 67 LeSabre.....

Peace WildBill