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JJorgensen52

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Everything posted by JJorgensen52

  1. @MrEarl, first question first - Coast Guard, going on 10 years next month. Now, regards to cars - as you can see, I too have a bit of a fleet of vehicles (there are a few others not on that list) some from before the Wildcat and some after. With the exception of the '50 GMC (which I am building, albeit slowly, for my parents) and the '69 K10 (my first classic; so rusty from being used as a driver that it's probably only good for scrap, but I may yet try to save it as it is a rare one), all are running, driving rigs I use semi-regularly. My wife is supportive of my hobby and I do get a naptime here or an evening there, so I have some time to keep plugging away. I asked this question because I have been debating with myself; you all have shared all of the options I was considering, plus some more besides, and a lot of interesting reasoning which I hadn't explored before. As several stated, it's costing me nothing to store and is protected from further damage, so I have no heartache there. Some days, when one of the other cars needs to be tinkered with I'd love to have that space, but the weather is kind here at my current station so working outdoors is very viable. I do, however, always have the spectre of a future military move taking me somewhere that I can't bring the shell with, and right now I have no viable plan for that circumstance - so far, I have been able to avoid it across 4 tours, and I fear my fortunes may change. The point that most resonated with me was those who commented on how a major restoration like this can seem daunting - that I think is really the meat of it. I hate seeing the car sit, but I also want to fix it all the way the right way and it's a long job. In the end, seeing how many others have been through or are in LONG term projects like this, I am heartened a bit. My plan in the immediate future is to start organizing and better laying out some of the small tasks, so I can get back at it and perhaps see her roadworthy again, if not fully restored. At the same time, I am going to start exploring options for how to store the car long term, if I have to move and can't take it with me. I think that will make this decision for me, more than anything. My thanks for your thoughts! It has been helpful.
  2. I can't agree with this one, I'm asking because I do! If I didn't care for the car this would be easy, cut my losses and clear it out of the garage. A lot of great points here, I really appreciate the discussion. It's brought on some good retrospective. I will share some of that later on when the little one is in bed.
  3. Good evening all! I've been absent from the forum for quite some time, which is a good indicator of why I'm posting tonight. I purchased a one owner barn-find '63 Wildcat coupe back in the summer of 2013 - it had been sitting in a barn since the mid-'70s and had under 45k original miles. It still has the bias plies on it from when it was parked. I did basic maintenance, then drove the car for about 6 months before starting to disassemble it for paint work. Upon doing so, I found some rust in the car - B-pillars under the trim, inner rockers, trunk above the body mounts. At that point, I started making plans to pull the body off the chassis and repair the metal properly. Then life happened. Fast forward 6 years, and the car has been sitting, disassembled and ready for the body to be pulled, in dry storage, basically untouched. I am in the service, so I've had to move several times, it's been in and out of commercial storage units, currently sitting in my climate controlled shop. Along with it I've accumulated a bunch of option parts to add to it (correct '63 AM/FM, winter's valve covers, a set of '64 Wildcat formula 5 wheels, a correct '64 wildcat T10 with pedals, bellhousing, correct Hurst shifter, bracket and linkage, along with various parts for that swap, straight rechromed center for the rear bumper, vacuum trunk release, parts for a rear speaker), and carefully labelled and boxed every nut, bolt and part removed from the car. I'm just now admitting to myself that having since gotten married, with one toddler and another on the way, that I have neither the time, nor the funds, to repair this car in the near future. While I love the look and feel of a big Buick, it's just not in the cards with everything else going on. So, tonight I'm wondering what to do. I can keep the car in mothballs as a someday project, or put it up for sale and look for another Buick enthusiast who can bring it back to life while I cannot. This was a complete, running driving car, which is still complete though in pieces and needing repair and reassembly. Photos from the day I brought it home, then as it sits (or close, it's got boxes stacked on it). What are your thoughts?
  4. My previous question is now moot - I have acquired a complete transmission and shifter setup from a wrecked '64 Wildcat with 40k miles!! An old hot rodder stored them, along with the correct dual quad 425, back in the late '60s, for a race car he was building - but never finished. Very excited, need to clean everything up before I take any pictures, though. I'm in the process of moving/building a new shop, so the 'Cat is in storage right now, sadly, but I hope to have it out in the fall and start working again!
  5. Well, this project has been dormant for a LONG time, I got tied up in too many other things... Anyways, I'm going to be getting back into the transmission swap - the next thing I need to do is get a new center section for my driveshaft, and that leads to a question: What output yoke should be in this car? The service manual shows a 16 spline count on the T10 output shaft, but that yoke only uses 1310 series U-joints, where the original joints in the car were 1330. Has anyone with a manual trans car had to replace U-joints, and if so do you remember what series they were?
  6. GM's part catalog shows the pan as a PN 25522386 - GM's stock distributor shows new inventory, so the local dealer may be able to find one: http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-pan-asm-25522386.html The '91 parts book (GM Parts Wiki links) shows applications from 82-84 across all the platforms with the 231 and later 4.1L engine (this information is also summarized in the vendor link, above): http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=131222 http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=131223 Short answer, yes some Buick models in that vintage, same engine, would work. Hope that helps.
  7. Too true! The fellow who owns it seems to be leaning towards parting it out ... must need the funds.
  8. I found this ad whilst searching for a 3.42 posi center section - I have not seen it in person, but it seems like a very complete and very nice project. As much as I need the posi, I'd hate to see a rare car get chopped. Somebody should save it! http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5057399760.html
  9. Wow! It's been forever since I had a chance to work on this car. I've gotten deeply involved in building a 1950 GMC hot-rod/cruiser (if you're interested, click here) - but I am still slowly collecting Buick parts, and I've finally gotten the four speed tail housing swapped, cross member straightened and the whole affair is bolted up into the car. Score! The next two steps are getting a new driveshaft mid-section made for the longer trans, and getting the shifter set up in the car. Hopefully this summer I will be focused on this one again.
  10. Anyone of you lucky enough to have a manual trans car - I am looking for a photo (and measurements if possible) of the radius arm return spring and bracket, shown here: This particular piece is missing from my set-up and I am looking into fabricating a replacement. Many thanks in advance.
  11. Good news! I have here now a correct T10-7B tailhousing with the right date code for this car, so I will be moving forward with getting the trans in, fabricating the shifter mount and linkage, and getting a front driveshaft section made. Bad news. I haven't had any time for this project in a while. Hopefully after the holiday I will get a chance to do the tailhousing swap. Happy early Thanksgiving, all!
  12. My area of repair is localized, I am going to hand make panels for the patches I need. It will take less time and fitting than replacing the whole pan.
  13. John, that is a sharp color! I admit I am still partial to the blue, but you're tempting me. I've got time to decide Also, a good looking car. I'd never seen a 98 of that vintage before. One more to add to the list...
  14. I've got a set of front floor pans, left and right, for 1961-1964 fullsize Buick. They're from Classic2Current fabrication. Cost $60 + s&h each new, asking $110 shipped. Still in the original box, just have changed my plan of attack on repairs on my car and decided I am not going to use them.
  15. Thanks!! I did in fact get a chance to install the T-10 tonight. Good news, bad news. Bad news is I've discovered my tail housing is not compatible with the transmission crossmember in this frame As it turns out, this tailhousing (7D) uses the middle of the three possible T10 mounting positions. Good news, everything fits like it was meant to go up there, I have adequate clearance all around and things are shaping up! Please note there is no clutch, flywheel or linkage at this point because I'm just test fitting parts. I also have sandblasted many of the parts but have not yet coated them so didn't want to get them greasy or cause rust before they're protected.
  16. You are both correct and incorrect at the same time, sir. The Dynaflow crank has a very large pilot hole (for the torque converter snout) which is just over 2" in diameter! You can see the "snout" in the first photo. I have a machined adapter (courtesy of Centerville Auto) which fits in the Dynaflow pilot recess and is machined to accept a standard GM pilot bearing (0.590") I also have a '63 Nailhead with a manual trans crank (which is machined for a pilot bearing), but I decided that since this motor runs so well and has so little mileage, that I would not take it apart to swap cranks.
  17. Dynaflow is out! With any luck, I'll have time tomorrow to test fit the bellhousing and T-10 with the other cross member.
  18. Fenders look worse than mine - pass there. For the vacuum trunk setup, the only important components are the pull knob release in the glovebox with the bracket and screws that go with it, and then the actual release can in the truck. It mounts inside the latch support right behind the key opening/under the latch. From the service manual: And the unit looks like this: The vacuum tubing is frequently cracked and easy to replace, anyway.
  19. Any chance the front fenders have good bottoms? Mine are both rusty behind the wheels. Also would be interested in the trunk release setup.
  20. No offense taken, this is a very pertinent question! It's great to have folks sharing their knowledge here, helps those of us still relative newcomers to the hobby to learn the right things to do. The answer is that I did not take as many pictures as I might have to fully illustrate the process. I did bevel the ends of both pedal sections prior to making my butt joint - because the pedal arms are not very wide, the depth of bevel only amounted to ~3/16" on either side, totaling about 50% of the total width of the pedal arm at the joint. When I did my MiG pass I was able to neatly fill the bevel and ensure good penetration into the base metal. The other photo which is missing here would show that once I was satisfied that my structure was sound, I made a few additional "filler" passes to allow me to blend my joint without cutting away too much of the material at the joint itself. Given that I'm never planning to race this car, or to drive it *too* hard, I was much more concerned with the visual aspect of the joint than I might otherwise have been. Thanks for the feedback, folks!
  21. Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the result, now I just need to get it all painted up.
  22. There were two pedals in the parts car - the original, manual brake pedal for a manual trans car, and there was an automatic trans pedal (with the wide pad) that had been "trimmed" to fit - meaning enough that it didn't hit the clutch. It looked hack and there was no good way to make the correct pedal pad (same one as the clutch uses) fit on it, because the metal pad on the auto pedals has a different curvature, and also the way it is attached to the pedal arm prevents it from being made narrow enough. The manual pedal will not fit the power brake booster, the linkage is significantly lower and shorter. It actually pivots on a different point in the bracket - by my measure, I would have had to add about 3.5" to the length of the booster pushrod to meet the pedal, and at that point the steering column is in the way. So using that pedal directly was not possible. The short of that is that I wanted it to look as much like the factory setup as possible (re: this post from a question I asked earlier). The only difference here is I lowered the pedal slightly closer to the floor, to satisfy my visual tastes.
  23. Well, I'm still a little less than enthused about taking a grinder to my manual brake pedal... but I did, and I'm very happy with the results. This first photo shows my cut line drawn on the power brake pedal - note that the pedal is 1-3/16" depth to this point and tapers below it. I am not sure what the roll pin is for - my car doesn't have this? Here's the pedal after the initial splice. I added about 3 degrees of forward angle when I cut the manual brake pedal, to keep the pad at the height I wanted. Welds finished. I was not happy with the shape of the welded section at this point, it was too obvious, so I welded some additional material in there and smoothed it out again. After the second go around, and some quality time with a fine metal file to blend it. I'm reasonably satisfied that anyone who wasn't looking for this would not notice it. And the final view. I am quite happy with the location, it's in line height-wise with the clutch, and sits at a height which falls in line with the clutch and gas pedals to give visual continuity. As an added bonus, this position actually makes heel-toe quite comfortable. Making progress!
  24. Tonight, got the old brake pedal bracket out and my sandblasted / primed clutch&brake pedal bracket test fitted. The clutch pedal is not on it's return spring yet, but I've zip tied it to the stop to set the height correctly Then, it occurred to me there was enough stick-out on the clutch pedal carrier to install the manual trans / manual brake pedal to the right of my auto / power pedal. I set the height according to the factory service manual diagrams. Also an interesting fact here, the clutch pedal rides on a pair of cartridge roller bearings, rather than bushings as I am familiar with from the Chevrolet world. The next photo shows the height difference in the two pedals when the pedal faces are level. Not sure how to get the image to rotate? I decided I would cut the manual pedal 8 1/2" above the bottom of the pad for my splice. To pick this point, I set the pedals at the same height and then took a square across the auto/power pedal at the lowest possible point where the pedals are the same dimension (the power pedal tapers to about 5/8" depth at the pad, where the manual pedal is consistently 1-1/8" all the way down). Then, I pulled the tape on the power pedal from the point I marked to cut. 8 1/2" will drop the pedal pad about 3/4" from where it is now, but brings it visually into line with the clutch pedal and satisfies my compulsive symmetric tendencies These last two are a bonus - this shows the bracket I made to hold a standard GM tail lamp switch to the auto brake pedal assembly. used a piece of 1/16" wall 1" square tube, a #10 machine screw and a preexisting hole in the bracket to mount the switch. This method will not work with the clutch pedal assembly - I'm planning to make a mount which mimics the style of the factory clutch stop, and weld it on to the bracket in the same fashion as the clutch stop. That way, hopefully it will look as factory as possible. Thoughts on this? My only concern was that lowering the pedal pad might cause binding with the floor, but I appear to have good clearance all around based on my trial tonight. I do not know how much thickness the carpet will add, that could present an issue. Unfortunately, my carpet is in storage at another location and I don't have access to it to try that out. One other thought. I was surprised to find both the dash braces and the pedal bracket assembly to be bare steel in this car. I'm used to the later trucks, where the brackets have some kind of anti-corrosion coating on them. Can anyone comment on whether any of the factory cars were coated? I had in my mind that I was going to paint these with the faux gold zinc.
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