My next project "La Petite Chanteuse"

[oldcar]

Today I decided to move my attention to the rear axle. The reason for this change is simple. I had to move it and in order to do this I decided that it had to loose some weight. First by removing the brakes and then as it had eventually had to come apart, why not make a start on it now? The left side brake drum and hub came off nice and easily but the right side has decided to be difficult. The rear wheel/axle bearings are retained in the ends of the axle tubes by a ring nut requiring a 2 inch across the flats ring spanner something that not every tool kit has. In the past unthinking people have over come this by using a hammer and drift. To add to the confusion with the usual British thoroughness (in the 1920s) as with the wheel nuts these have right and left hand threads. Going by the amount of dirt and solidified grease it is a long time since this has been apart. The rear brake drums hold four shoes on each side. Two for the foot brake and two for the hand brake.

Bj.

Edited August 22, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

My good friend Ben C Benson will be pleased to learn that my trusty Monkey Wrench has come to the rescue. It opens up to the required two inches easily.

Bj.

Edited August 22, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

I know that this is a long long way from Chevys, Buicks, Mustangs or Corvettes but please be patient, miracles still happen.

My son Steve has just turned up these early 1920s drawings for me. All I need now is a printer that is big enough for me to print them out to full size so I can mount them up on the garage wall.

Go back to #35 and let your imagination run wild.

Bj.

Edited August 24, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Landman]

Bernie, is yours a boattail roadsterr like that ?

[oldcar]

Hello Pat

This Singer when acquired was totally dismantled, even the chassis, if you look at my earlier posts, had been taken apart (they are bolted together). There was not even a suggestion of a body so I will be constructing that from the ground up. The drawings are for a 1922 Aston Martin. Previously I have used an earlier Aston Martin body style on an earlier Singer and on of all things a Dodge Four (See attached photographs.) The staggered seating arrangement is ideal for the Singer as the chassis is only 2;6" wide at its widest point. There is a connection between Aston Martin and Singer in that prior to starting his own company Lionel Martin was a works racing driver for Singer.

Bj,

.

See also the earlier 1926 Singer photograph at the start of this thread.

Edited August 25, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Five hours later and a start has been made on laying out the dimensions for the body frame and an order for materials e-mailed to the supplier for delivery early next week. Not the BIGGEST, the smartest or the "prettiest" workshop and certainly no fancy-nancy, state of the art, fully automated, power equipment but an actual working one.

Stand well back!

Bj.

Edited August 25, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Some light relief... Our son Paul and his partner Nicole are "touring" in Central Australia. Their emergency sat-nav beacon sent us this message with their location. Findmespot.com It is worth looking at the "satellite" version and zooming in on their actual location. The colour of the background is correct. That is why it is called the RED Centre!

Bj.

For all the armchair travellers here is Paul & Nicole's location today.

http://fms.ws/DZyFN/30.31140S/139.33458E

Edited August 26, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Some light relief... Our son Paul and his partner Nicole are "touring" in Central Australia. Their emergency sat-nav beacon sent us this message with their location. Findmespot.com It is worth looking at the "satellite" version and zooming in on their actual location. The colour of the background is correct. That is why it is called the RED Centre!

Bj.

NEAT, Bernie,

Zoomed in on Brisbane and found the house I lived in 1969/1970.

Ben

[oldcar]

While it may look as though nothing is happening, I can assure that you my brain cells are working overtime! Unfortunately not even simple things like body frames just jump together. Anybody who has built one from just a few lines drawn on a sheet of paper, and I am sure that there are not all that many of you reading this can put their hand up for that one, will affirm that there is as much or possibly more "thinking" time as there is actual working time.

I am sorry but you will just have to be patient, my CNC body frame machine is "off-line".

Bj.

Edited August 27, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

In an attempt to explain exactly what I am talking about here is a photograph of the frame I built about 10 years ago for a similar Singer Junior. One big problem is that my standards have gone up quite a bit in 10 years.

Bj.

[oldcar]

Another day. A start has been made on the body frame with the main (bottom) rails in place. Sorry nothing really worth photographing. More of the same today.

Bj.

Edited August 28, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[JV Puleo]

Hi Bernie,

I like the Singer... well, I like British cars to begin with. When you are bolting the chassis together, do you use the same size bolts as originally used or do you ream the holes one size larger? I only ask because I've bolted a formerly riveted chassis in the past, and found that I wasn't comfortable unless the bolts were tight in the holes. As you probably know, RR chassis were bolted together but the parts were lined up and the holes reamed with a bridge reamer before each bolt was set. They were then fixed by using a punch on the edge of the threads/nut. I'm wondering if you've developed any special technique for this.

Joe P

[oldcar]

Hello Joe

Nice to hear from you again. The Singer chassis was as were Lagonda bolted together in the factory. Rather than Independent suspension the chassis were designed to allow a certain amount of twisting. One reason why many English open cars with aluminium panels tend to develop cracks at some stress points. My Lagonda Rapier is a classic example with this exacerbated because the passenger is given a door while the driver has to climb over the side. This was the standard practice with all sporting Lagondas, even four seater larger cars only had three doors. (2,3 and 4.5 Litres)

Singer relied on the body frame to impart a certain amount of stiffness. Having said that there are just six mounting points for the body. With the engine bolted directly in, the crankcase also lends a great deal of stiffness to the front section of the chassis.

Bj.

Edited August 29, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Will all the super sensitive people and absolute purists look away now.

For more years than I care to remember I have willingly confessed that I am a far better welder than I am a carpenter. This being so, this Singer as with countless others of my "restorations", will have a steel tube body-frame.

Having said that to me at least there is one mitigating reason for my actions. "What would in all probability remain a pile of junk or worse still become fodder for the scrap metal mans muncher, I am "restoring to life" a going and usable vintage car that someone can use and enjoy.

Once the restoration is completed with paint and interior trimming (upholstery etc), it will take a very keen eyed observer/judge to detect the difference. Having said that it is not my intention to deceive anyone and as with everything else in life I am completely up-front. Often to my own disadvantage.

Shocked by this revelation? No one is compelling you to continue to follow this thread.

Bj.

[oldcar]

I really do not expect too many of you to even start to understand what is going on here. Basically I am "drawing" the body frame in three dimensions, free hand, using steel tube instead of a pencil. What you see here represents almost a week of concentrated work. Much of this time has been spent "thinking around the various problems as they present themselves". If you can understand that you are probably as mad as I am.

What you are looking at is the centre section of the body "tub" from the cowl back with the passenger (riding mechanic) seat staggered behind and to the side of the driver's seat. The two sides of the body are totally different to each other. I am just starting on the drivers (right) side.

Bj.

Edited September 2, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Landman]

Bernie do you bend your tubing with a machine or on pegs welded to the bench?

[oldcar]

Really Pat

Can't a boy have any secrets?

As you are probably aware I have a vast state of the art workshop fully equipped with all the latest sophisticated machinery, most fully computer controlled. I also have fresh carefully laundered white overalls each day and I always wear my baseball cap with the peak at a jaunty angle over my left ear on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and over my right ear on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. On Sundays I wear my WW1 leather pilots "flying helmet" with the ear-flaps turned up and buckled over the top of my head. My built in stereophonic sound system plays Thelonious Monk in the mornings and Charlie Parker in the afternoons interspersed by selected early Gerry Mulligan, in particular "Bernie's Tune" which incidentally, very few people are aware, was perhaps written especially for me. My large staff of highly skilled professional assistants all have university degrees in advanced engineering. There is absolutely no chance of my getting my hands dirty as I always wear two layers of surgical gloves. This really is over-kill as everything is sterilised in a huge autoclave before entering the premises.

Among my collection of quaint antique hand tools, usually tastefully displayed in sealed glass cases, is this one piece of equipment of unknown and obviously obscure origin that I believe may in an earlier age have been used by primitive pioneer restorers in an attempt to obtain bends of a uniform nature in steel tube of varying dimensions. I have especially taken it out of the display case and carefully dusted it off in order to photograph it for you. I trust that you find this informative and somewhat amusing. I have to admit I constructed this some 30 or 40 years ago when I first started to build tubular steel body frames. About that time 13 inch was a popular size tyre used on the more common make automobiles made for the mass market. It has proved to be durable, easily transportable and can be stored out in the open for long periods without any discernible damage. Even the most ham-fisted operator can achieve a reasonably acceptable bend. The one handicap is that it will only create the desired bend in one direction and only at one end or the other of a length of tube requiring frequent cutting and welding.

Bj

1918-2007 Almost every make worth owning.

Edited September 3, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

More of the same again today, despite a couple of interruptions some progress was made on the drivers side of the body frame. Another day and I should be able to move on to the tail. I will not blame you if you have trouble in discerning where the progress has been made but there is a good five to six hours work gone into the Singer today.

Bj.

[oldcar]

Another day and more photographs of bundles of twisted steel tube. I hope that you are not becoming too bored. At last the front section of the body frame is more or less completed. So far this has consumed no less than 26 metres of tube. Not that I have been throwing the stuff in the bin. In total to date there would not have been half a metre of waste. I now have to wait for the next delivery of two more 6 metre lengths of 12.7 X 12.7 (1/2 inch) tube so I can complete the tail section. Hopefully tomorrow.

Bj.

Edited September 4, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[dan at larescorp]

Starting to really take shape. Nice Work!

[oldcar]

Thank you Dan

Once the body frame is completed it can be removed and I can return to the main restoration. My theory is that it is pointless to have a fully restored chassis and then start building the body frame on it. Some damage will always happen no matter how careful you may be.

Bj.

[oldcar]

Not a great deal to report today, the good news is that another 12 metres of 12.7 X 12.7mm (1/2 inch) square tube arrived this afternoon and I have just picked up an 2400 X 1200mm (8' X 4') sheet of 1.2mm steel which will be ideal for seat backs & etc. Amazing what you can fit into the rear seat of a 1996 Peugeot 405-SRi sedan if you put your mind to it.

Bj.

Edited September 5, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

It may seem hard to believe but some days you can put in several hours work and still have little or nothing to show for it. Yesterday was one of those days. With the Singer's "staggered" seating arrangement, just getting the seat frames right is taking up quite a bit of time. This is critical as the seats are actually part of the body frame.

Bj.

[oldcar]

While it is still Sunday in the USA it is Monday in Australia. This means Petanque followed by coffee on Monday morning. This leaves just the afternoon for more work on the Singer. Todays photographs tell the story. with the seat frames 85-90% finished and the tail well on the way.

Bj.

[oldcar]

Hello again

Another longish day but at least there is something to show for my efforts. The sheet metal for the seat backs is in place so hopefully these photographs will make some sense to some of you at least. I have used pop rivets to fix the sheet metal to the frames as these will all be well and truly out of sight once the upholstery goes in but do not let us rush too far ahead. Any of you who may be struggling with the concept of a 'staggered' seating arrangement hopefully these three photographs may help to explain how the seats fit in. The 'riding' mechanic was very much a second class citizen. If you look at period photographs of racing cars in action during the late 'teens and early twenties this will be apparent.

Bj.

Edited September 11, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Another day and another (tiny) step forward. Most of this morning was taken up with making and fitting the sheet metal to the bulk-head. It would certainly speed things up if I had all that state of the art equipment like a folder for instance but would I be having so much fun? Much of this afternoon was spent on what could be described as "Belt AND Braces" tasks. You will have to ask your grand-father to explain that one. That and simple little but necessary things like the lugs that will ultimately support the dash-board. My next task is to draw up the petrol tank so I can get a quote on having one fabricated in aluminium.

The rear view of the seats also gives you a better idea of the amount of "off-set"

Bj.

.

Edited September 12, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[whtbaron]

Great to see you on another project! You know I like speedsters so I'm really liking this boat tail. Great job on the fabrication.

[oldcar]

Hello whtbaron

And all the people who are wondering if I have done a disappearing act, we have been away in the 1934 Lagonda for the weekend visiting Maryborough in the heart of the Central Goldfields of Northern Victoria. Checking the odometer since we have arrived home, we covered some 480 kilometres in two days driving there and back. The speed limit on main (divided) roads in Victoria (Australia) is either 100 or 110 kph. Being a law abiding citizen I usually drive to or near to the limit. I would hate to be accused of holding up the traffic because I am driving a 79 year old car......

Bj.

Edited September 15, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Monday and more boring stuff, welding and adjusting the frame. This included extending the drivers seat extension another 2 two inches. This is hinged to allow access to the main floor when it finally comes up on the "to-do" list. I did a thumb nail drawing for the petrol tank and sent it off for a quotation to make it in aluminium.

Bj.

[oldcar]

Another day and another tiny step forward. Today I have ordered three 1200 X 2400mm sheets of 1.6mm aluminium sheet and paid a deposit on the fuel tank.

Bj.

[oldcar]

Time flies when you are having fun!

First thing this morning the truck arrived with my three sheets of aluminium and four lengths of cresent mould. So on the basis of that there is no time like the present the first side has been roughed out and is ready to start "knocking into shape!" Don't be put off by the lovely marine blue that is simply the protective coating that the mill applies to the sheet to protect the finish. The frame has been removed from the chassis and is lying on its side.

Bj

Edited September 19, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

No work on the Singer this weekend. We had the Vintage Sports Car Club "Two Day Rally" a competitive road navigation event over about 350 miles of secondary, mainly hill district, roads. Our trusty 1934 Lagonda Rapier performed well for the whole event effortlessly keeping up with the traffic on the freeway on our return home. (60-70mph)

Bj.

Edited September 24, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Back to work and I have just discovered that my computer controlled lazer cutter is out of action! As a result I have had to resort to taking my antique "tin-smith's" snips out of the glass fronted display case and go back at least 150 years in time, to cut out the driver's side panel. Fortunately my long term memory is still functioning and I could recall how they functioned using nothing but hand power. First task was to cut out a brown paper pattern using nothing more complicated than a sheet of brown paper, a marking pen and a pair of hand operated scissors. For those unfamiliar with hand tools, the snips are shown in both photographs with two hand operated files and a two "G" clamps acting as temporary paper weights. The purpose of these is to hold the paper in place as there was quite a draft coming from my (open-)air-conditioner. In actual fact, as my entire staff of expert assistants were all absent, and in order to have sufficient room to manoeuvre the 2400mm X 1200mm (8' X 4') sheet of 1.6mm aluminium single handed, this had to be done outside. "G" clamps are again old fashioned implements using a thumb screw to tighten the clamping pad in order to hold secure the work in hand thus leaving both right and left hands free. These too along with the two "bastard" (correct terminology) hand files, have been temporarily removed from the normally locked, alarmed and hermetically sealed, display case holding my collection of antique hand tools.

Bj

Edited September 25, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Stude17]

Very witty Bernie but I'm sure if you take the time to visit any reasonable harware shop in your area you will see that tinsman snips, "G" clamps and hand files are all still readily available so people must still be using them and there is no reason to keep them in your display case. With all the aluminium body work you appear to do perhaps a set of "nibblers would be a worth while addition to your basic tool kit. After 50 plus years of being involved with home mechanical repair I have progressed beyond a basic kit of tools by addiing new tools/equipment as needed and if within my budget at the time. This is certainly a personal thing and I can't really see why you keep on about what tools other people may or may not be lucky enough to have. As for CNC tools they are not for me but they are certainly becoming more available and within the reach of many home car enthusiasts.

[Col Wright]

Very witty Bernie but I'm sure if you take the time to visit any reasonable harware shop in your area you will see that tinsman snips, "G" clamps and hand files are all still readily available so people must still be using them and there is no reason to keep them in your display case. With all the aluminium body work you appear to do perhaps a set of "nibblers would be a worth while addition to your basic tool kit. After 50 plus years of being involved with home mechanical repair I have progressed beyond a basic kit of tools by addiing new tools/equipment as needed and if within my budget at the time. This is certainly a personal thing and I can't really see why you keep on about what tools other people may or may not be lucky enough to have. As for CNC tools they are not for me but they are certainly becoming more available and within the reach of many home car enthusiasts.

Bernie, pay no attention, these young guys don't understand the pleasure we get from our old personalised tools that have served us well and when picked up just fit the palm like an old pair of shoes. I to have a glass cabinet locked and full of my antique tools that will suit no one else but me. What pleasure we get from the familiarity of those old faithfuls. I do from time to time buy new stuff as I am sure you do but still like my old faithfuls. Keep on keeping on Bernie.

Col Wright

Brisbane

[oldcar]

Thank you Stude17 and Col

In a way you are both right. I get a lot of pleasure of working on my various projects, this despite working under conditions that most people would consider "impossible". It seems as though there are a great number of very "precious" people out there and no doubt some of them either do not understand my particular sense of humour or are themselves totally devoid of any sense of fun. I am always amused by the people who put great store in having the very latest equipment and what to me are palatial work shops but seem incapable of putting a spanner on a nut. One only has to look at the number of unfinished projects and ones that were started ten, fifteen or even twenty years ago and have not progressed passed the stage of buying all the specialist tools and air-conditioning the workshop.

Probably totally unknown outside Australia, we have a national sport called "Taking the Mickey!"

Bj.

Edited September 25, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Further to the above I completely fail to understand the mentality of people who have a fabulous vintage or classic car but get more enjoyment driving a huge truck towing a vast trailer than actually driving their treasured car. A properly restored car should be totally reliable, safe and pleasurable to drive under all conditions, there is nothing that I enjoy more than driving my cars in company of like minded people. Right now we are busy planing our next three month visit to Europe during the 2014 Northern Spring where we will be using the 1934 Lagonda as a daily driver. That is right, 1,000s of miles from home in a foreign country for three months, driving in a 79 year old two seater sports car, that I restored and maintain myself, every day. Wonderful!

Bj.

Alpine Passes Conquered.

in the French, Italian and Swiss Alps & the Pyrenees

During visits to Europe with the 1934 Lagonda Rapier CH1998

in 1994,6,9 & 2004& 9.

Col de l’Iseran 2,769 metres. (Both directions.) (F)

Passo dello Stelvio 2,758 metres. (I)

Col du Galibier 2,645 metres. (Both directions) (F)

Passo di Gavia 2,621 metres. (I)

Furka Pass 2,431 metres. (CH)

Col d’Izoard 2,361 metres. (Both directions) (F)

Albula Pass 2,312 metres. (CH)

Julier Pass 2,284 metres. (CH)

Susten Pas 2,224 metres. (CH)

Penser Joch 2,214 metres (I)

Ofen Pass 2,149 metres. (CH)

Col de Vars 2,111 metres (Both directions) (F)

Jaufen Pass 2,094 metres (I)

Col du Mt Cenis 2,083 metres (Both directions) (F-I)

Col du Lautaret 2,068 metres (Both directions) (F)

Oberalp Pass 2,044 metres (CH)

Cormet de Roseland 1.922 metres (Both directions) (F)

Mount Ventoux 1,909 metres (F)

Passo Tonale 1,883 metres (I)

l’Alpe d’Huez 1,860 metres (Both directions) (F)

Col de Montgenevre 1,850 metres (Both directions) (F-I)

Col du Somport 1,632 metres (Pyrenees) (F-S)

Col du Telegraphe 1,578 metres (Both directions) (F)

Lenzerhide 1,547 metres (CH)

Monte Bondone 1,537 metres (I)

Col de la Forclaz 1,526 metres (CH)

Gampen Joch 1,518 metres (I)

Col des Aravis 1,486 metres (F)

Col des Montets 1,461 metres (F)

CH) Switzerland. (F) France. (I) Italy. (S) Spain.

Other countries visited include Belgium, Germany, Holland & Luxemburg

In the UK, High Street in the Lakes District, 815 metres,

the Devils Staircase, Mid Wales, 481metres.

In Australia, Charlotte Pass, in the Kosciuszko National Park, 1.760 metres

Dead Horse Gap, near Threadbo Village, 1,580 metres.

Edited September 25, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Roger Z will probably tell me that I have shown you this one before but I think that it is worth showing again. Don't look at the car or the happy lady but look at the scenery. To coin a phrase, the peak of motoring experience. The summit of the Stelvio Pass,in the Italian Tyrol, 2758 metres. A long, long way from South Eastern Australia. No back up car, no four wheel drive with enclosed trailer, no little men in white overalls and baseball caps......

Bj.

Edited September 26, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Stude17]

Bernie as an Australian living in Brisbane (Hi Mr ColW) I fully undertand Aussie humour and not for one second did I ever believe you keep your hand tools in glass cabinets. I too have old tools that have been with me for a long time and like you I would be useless with out them. I doubt they will ever see the inside of a locked glass cabinet. As for an air-conditioned workshop with the high temperatures we have had over the last couple of days here in Brisbane I would use it without a second thought. A very impressive list of Alpine Passes and countries visited. Well done.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Roger Z will probably tell me that I have shown you this one before but I think that it is worth showing again. Don't look at the car or the happy lady but look at the scenery. To coin a phrase, the peak of motoring experience. The summit of the Stelvio Pass,in the Italian Tyrol, 2758 metres. A long, long way from South Eastern Australia. No back up car, no four wheel drive with enclosed trailer, no little men in white overalls and baseball caps......

Bj.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]215736[/ATTACH]

You are bragging again, Bernie! Deservedly.

Ben