Col Wright

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About Col Wright

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/22/1949

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Brisbane Australia
  • Interests:
    Veteran motorcycles and antique cars

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  1. Mike, Hadnt given much thought to effect of machining. Let’s overlook that for now. Isnt the current aim to get the shafts running in line “as one”. The V blocks if aligned on a dead flat surface should do that if crank pin is just loose and your set up can relax. You can carefully rotate and check either end of each shaft for runout with crankpin just slightly tightened, hopefully they will be near spot on, then slowly torque the crank pin and recheck the shaft readings. If they change when torqued it’s the flywheels out of parallel. Let’s cross that bridge if needed. My thoughts are if pins both run with only minor deviation I would not worry about face of flywheel being slightly out ( could be your machining) as the effect will only be balance and these old things were never balanced as we now think and expect. Perhaps someone like Joe might like to comment on my ideas as I am neither engineer or mechanic just self taught. Good luck mate, this is a patience job. Col ( Brisbane Aus.)
  2. Hello Mike, Been following your rebuild with great interest. Your bottom end is almost a copy of my pre 20 Harley’s. Can I offer the following. The shafts should be on V blocks close to flywheels to reduce flex. Then check if flywheels are parallel . If not gentle leverage can fix. Now check the run out and adjust with one end of crank pin not torqued to allow movement with a blow from a copper hammer to flywheel. I freaked out with the taper being pressed in flywheel in a press! They can disintegrate with too much pressure in taper take care here. We clean taper perfectly, no trace of oil etc., make sure there is full taper contact ( there is a theory that a light fine emery removal of glaze is good?) Then torque progressively to max 80 ft/lb . Hope this helps, Spend a little time setting up and reduce your stress. Been there done that. love watching your posts.
  3. Hi Mike, i have been following your progress from Brisbane Australia. I know a chap who builds wood spoke wheels from scratch. When he steam bends the felloe or felly he makes it in two half circles which looks like two letter U’s . As soon as they are steam formed he attaches a piece of tie wire across the ends to stop them straightening as they dry. He lets them dry and does not use them until the strain goes off the wire. This takes some weeks or months. His timber is larger than yours but I would be careful to keep the bends held in position until the timber is again fully seasoned throughout. thought this may be helpful as I could see you might move too quickly. keep up the good work I am 70 and currently restoring a 1915 Indian. cheers from Down Under Col
  4. Bernie, pay no attention, these young guys don't understand the pleasure we get from our old personalised tools that have served us well and when picked up just fit the palm like an old pair of shoes. I to have a glass cabinet locked and full of my antique tools that will suit no one else but me. What pleasure we get from the familiarity of those old faithfuls. I do from time to time buy new stuff as I am sure you do but still like my old faithfuls. Keep on keeping on Bernie. Col Wright Brisbane
  5. Hey Bernie as one old bloke to another may I say this is a sign you are having a bad day. The question to me was quite innocent the person who posted probably just wanted to know what is the right spelling. Two deep breaths and soldier on don't throw away a huge group of restoration friends over something like this. I always remember that a spoken question is easily understood due to the tone of voice of the questioner whereas an email can often be read in harsh terms when it was intended to be quite the opposite. Onward and upward old fellow Col Wright, Old Fellow in sunny Brisbane.
  6. If in Australia you may be interested in a B25 restoration project i have just advertised on Ebay Australia. This is a great project and I have already spent quite a bit of money on new wood spoke wheels, felly bands, split rims and tyres. Although dismantled I believe there is more than enough to complete one car mechanically. Also has new radiator surround, bonnet etc. look it up its item No 190842957763 or just search 1914 Buick. If at all interested ring me details also in add. Col Wright Brisbane Australia 0408705212
  7. If you are reading this in Australia you might like to log into Ebay Australia and look at my 1914 Buick project Ebay item 190842957763. Many exciting bits include new wood spoke wheels and rims, lovely complete carbide and kerosene lighting set, new panels etc. Pre 1920 stuff has always been hard to find here and this is a good basis for a restoration. For the Buick buffs in USA we did not get electrics in our imports until 1915. You guys must have had some old stock to offload to the colonies.
  8. Hey B how good does she look front on WELL DONE! Can I put my two bob's worth in on your hood profile. I personally feel the front bow needs to be higher and the back bow repositioned so the back is near straight. I just think forward sloping rear hood profiles do not look right on pre 1930 cars. But its your car and you only have to please one person. Cheers from Col in Brisbane.
  9. Beautiful surround and badge for sale on Ebay Australia search under vintage radiator. its immaculate from what I can see. Col Wright (downunder)
  10. Hey Bernie, I am up here in Queensland and have been following your thread daily. This is my first post. Dont you dare give up. My theory is you only have to please one person YOU. This is a hoby afterall. Also my experience is the critics are the GONNAS who never do anything. get going and keep us posted I am retired and you epotimise what I hope I will still be doing at your age. I saw your Packard at Ballarat swap for sale before you bought it. Cant wait to see it finished. Best Wishes Col in Queensland