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Clutch change out 1954 Buick Super 3-speed manual gear box


Guest PButros

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Guest PButros

Dear all,

greetings from The Netherlands.

I post this query on behalf of a friend of mine who owns a 1954 Buick Super with a 3-speed manual gearbox.

The clutch starts to slip so it is probably time for a change out of the friction plate etc.

Can anyone please tell me what is all involved to accomplish that??

Do we need to remove the gearbox or has it a telescopic spline shaft so you can just pick it out??

If it does require the gearbox to be removed, what is the correct order?

We are somewhat puzzled since te drive shaft is in a 'tunnel' which runs thru the chassis x-members.

If we have to remove all that it looks like it is quite an undertaking.

Any 'tips & tricks' are highly appeciated.

Kind regards,

Piet

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Yes, it is quite an undertaking. Wow, a '54 Super with a 3-speed--that is extremely RARE!!!

Either the engine has to come out or the rear end, torque tube, and transmission have to come out. Sometimes, you can wrap a chain or a very heavy strap around the rear axle, unbolt the torque tube from the back of the transmission, and pull the torque tube/rear axle assembly with a come-a-long back in the direction of the rear bumper, enough to get the transmission off and give you access to the clutch disc, without completely removing the torque tube/rear axle. You have to disconnect the emergency brake cable and anything else that is attached to the torque tube/rear axle assembly. Leave the coil springs in place.

How about a photo or two of the car??

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

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Yes, it is quite an undertaking. Wow, a '54 Super with a 3-speed--that is extremely RARE!!!

Either the engine has to come out or the rear end, torque tube, and transmission have to come out. Sometimes, you can wrap a chain or a very heavy strap around the rear axle, unbolt the torque tube from the back of the transmission, and pull the torque tube/rear axle assembly with a come-a-long back in the direction of the rear bumper, enough to get the transmission off and give you access to the clutch disc, without completely removing the torque tube/rear axle. You have to disconnect the emergency brake cable and anything else that is attached to the torque tube/rear axle assembly. Leave the coil springs in place.

How about a photo or two of the car??

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

You can remove a dynaflow using this method, but to remove a standard transmission, the rear end and torque tube will need to be completely removed. Even then the rear of the engine with transmission attached will have to be lowered to allow the transmission to clear the cross member ( that is because the pilot shaft of the transmission not only has to clear the flywheel, but also the clutch splines ). Depending on your equipment, it may be easier to remove the engine.

Willie

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Guest PButros

Pete, Willie,

thank you for your swift response.

By the looks of it it will be quite an undertaking, either removing the rear end and torque tube or engine alike..

We have a bridge, engine hoist etc. so either method is feasible, only question is which one is quickest / best....

I managed to find a manual somewhere in this forum, although I believe it is of younger date but that should be helpful one way or another.

Any suggestions as to where to buy a friction plate / pressure bearing??

Will post some pictures later as I'm not anywhere near teh car right now.

It was a true 'barn find' but apart from a small pinhole in the roof it is hard on both chassis and body, just worn paint and dry rust and very complete, nothing missing so that's a big plus.

The clutch cover was thought to be missing but was found in the trunk, indicating a previous owner had a look at it but must have given up because of the work involved.

When it arrived it started on first try adn all gauges / indicators are working, very impressive.....

Kind regards,

Piet

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As Pete stated, '54 Super's with 3 speeds are pretty rare. I have never seen one in person, and only pictures two, one two door which was blue but originally Condor Yellow and the other a green 4 door.

Unless you can tell that the motor mounts are fresh, I'd suggest pulling the engine with tranny and replacing both motor and transmission mounts while at it.

Be sure when ordering parts that you specify that the transmission is from a Series 50 (Super) as the Series 40 (Special) is a much smaller tranny and the clutch assemblies are much different.

You may want to check in over on the '54 Buick Highway. click here> 1954 Buick Highway - Welcome to the 1954 Buick Highway! There is a publication and literature section you can subscribe to that includes the Shop Manual. Although I'd highly recommend you purchase a hard copy. I keep an inventory of several and sell to BCA members or '54 Buick Highway members for $20 plus shipping. They generally run twice that on eBay.

Please do post some pictures of the car though, so if it is not one of the two I described above I can say I have seen pictures of 3. ;)

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Guest PButros

Mr. Earl,

you are also thanked for the info provided.

So from what I have learnt so far it is quite a special version to have a manual three speed.

That also raises concerns of availablity of spares and their cost. For that I would rather be the norm than the exception...

Will talk to my friend and see if he want's to fork out for a manual..

Pictures coming soon....

Kind regards,

Piet

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You'll find a short brake hose at the front end of the torque tube. Plan on replacing that while doing the job. It is good to replace the steel lines as well.

Pretty it up like this if you have the chance:

RR10.jpg

And be sure to use a diaphragm pressure plate to keep it feeling like a Buick. Sometimes there is a temptation to install a Borg & Beck 12 spring style and you end up needing to push the clutch pedal down with two feet.

Bernie

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post-31987-143141911472_thumb.jpg

Welll....I still have only ever seen pictures of two Supers with 3 speeds. ;) Here are pics of the car that I received from seller probably 5-6 years ago. He was located out west, maybe even California,and what with shipping, made the price of the car too much for me. But I see that didn't stop you from shipping TO THE NETHERLANDS. I remember the seller was a very nice guy and tried hard to make it work for me but we never could. I have always wondered what happened to the car. Now I know.

post-31987-143141911465_thumb.jpg

post-31987-143141911469_thumb.jpg

post-31987-14314191147_thumb.jpg

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Guest PButros

Bernie,

thanks for your input as well.

Now instead of removing the entire rear end, including the Torque Tube, would it be possible to support the rear chassis from the floor, with the car on the bridge, undo the rear end, lower the bridge and 'roll' the rear end including the torque tube far enough to be able to remove the transmission?

Taking out the engine is another option but I think one would end up with some trouble to align the spline with the pilot hole etc...

Mr. Earl,

by the looks of the looks of the color and the 'patina' on the hood it is indeed the same car..;), now that is what would call a rare coincidence...

The 'green' project car shown in the back of the last picture is my personal project, a '64 Thunderbird which I have in my posession since '95.

If it were'nt for that I would have picked the Buick for sure...

I personally like mid 50's and mid sixties, although miles apart from design, curvy vs flat, I quite like both of those styles.

Never really cared for the late '50's / early 60's when those fins we're trying to reach for the sky. It's just a personal thing though....anyone putting some TLC in old cars has my respect.

It came in a 40ft container together with a '49 Cadillac, '73 Cadillac Convertible and a '65 Mustang.

The Mustang was to replace another one that got stolen on a 'road trip' somewhere in teh south of Holland just one week after having received it's Dutch registration.

Luckily for him it was insured 'all risk' so it allowed him to order another one...

As far as shipping is concerned I guess if you manage to stick 4 cars in a container shipping for California to Holland is cheaper than having it trucked to Georgia...

I would be interested in a manual but since I'm not a AACA member I'm assuming the discounted price woudl not apply??

Kind regards,

Piet

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Guest PButros

Bernie,

great picture....Exactly what I was thinking...is that an Invicta??

Looks like you have a few projects on the go as well

didn't know Buick had wireless brake lights those days....

Piet

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Guest PButros

Update:

Gearbox came out fine after pulling back the rear and torque tube.

Friction plate is worn even beyond the rivets.

Has a hair crack in the flywheel and some grooves as well.

This thing must have run really hot...

Friction plate sent off for relining.

Need to figure our what to do about the flywheel....

So far thanks for everyone's help.

Piet

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1954 Buick Special Flywheel V8 264 Mint Original 3 6 Fly Wheel | eBay

The crack can be welded I believe. The flywheel would need to be rebalanced then I would think.

That's a flywheel/flexplate for a dynaflow and even then it is different from the one used with a 322.:) All standard tranny flywheels will have some surface crack that will mostly disappear with resurfacing of the flywheel.

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