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Push Button vs. Pedal Start


Paul Falabella

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My 55 Roadmaster has a push button starter. It appears the wiring for the starter, radio and antenna are routed through a pair of Potter and Broomfield VF4-45F11 relays. Anyone heard of this? Gonna be a problem returning to pedal start? Can of worms,leave it alone?

Also, behind the drivers kick panel,high up is a factory(marked Delco) relay, doesn't seem to be on schematic. Any ideas what it's for?

Thanks.

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Paul, the kick panel relay is probably for the power seats and/or windows.

Going back to gas pedal start from modified push button is doable, but the difficulty depends on where push button and relays is wired and whether there are defective parts that caused this modification in the first place. Someone sure liked 'personalized' electronics.

Willie

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Nailed it Willie!. Page 104A,Master Body Parts Book, shows Relay,door window electric and Breaker,circuit, which I also could not identify. Another mystery solved.

The radio and antenna thing I think have to do with the antenna being a newer replacement and protecting the radio from starting with it on.

That leaves the pedal start deal.

Thanks

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Guest NikeAjax

How stock do you want your car? The reason I ask is, if want to put a one-wire-alternator, which I LOVE having, you'll be bypassing the switch on the carburetor: yes I already know I'm a satanic-communist for not keeping my car absolutely stock! I also have an MSD-ignition, disc-brakes, and electric windshield wiper, oh, and hardened valve-seats... These are all super nice to have if you drive your car and not showing it as an original piece of auto-history.

Please note: these are MY opinions, and don't expect ANYONE to agree, just putting it out there for you to think about...

Jaybird

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Only two opinions are important about a modified car. One the owner's and running a close second is any potential future buyer. Of course, even on a stock car they have opinions about a lack of maintenance, little things you need to adjust for, and the like. Our cars are costing more to buy and keep operating and the investment gets heavier.

When it comes time to divest of your investment one can sell a restored 1956 Buick or Bernie Daily's interpretation of a 1956 Buick. A restored 1956 Buick can be valued objectively based on originality and condition. The modified interpretation of a 1956 Buick is a subjective sale based on the taste of a collective group of individualists at the time of the sale.

Bottom line is enjoy yourself but don't whine someday when you find out a satanic communist really likes your car and doesn't have any money to buy it.

I'm gonna watch the last scene from Devil's Rejects, enjoy the music, and back to work like the free bird I am.

Bernie

Bernie

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Guest Rob McDonald

PAUL, push button start is just sooo fashionable right now, along with keyless entry. Heck, many GM cars of a certain vintage have keyless entry - the ignition switch is in the On, Unlocked position and the keys were lost years ago. The security factor is gone but it sure is convenient!

I can see why you'd wonder why some previous caretaker installed an elaborate accessory starting circuit. I'm guessing that he had some trouble with the carburator, not the carb-mounted starting switch itself. Fully depressing the accelerator pedal to activate the starter may have caused engine flooding problems. Rather than dealing with that issue directly, maybe he chose to remove the pedal-to-the-metal trigger, so that he could feather the gas pedal while coaxing that big ol' nailhead to life.

My sage advice - which you clearly don't heed regarding things like roof colour =>:^] - is to restore the gas pedal starting system but only when you're majorly dealing with the carb at some point anyway. It's a cool vintage Buick feature (shared with Packard) and it works well when everything else is reasonably sorted out.

That's my two cents worth. However, Her Majesty's Canadian government recently killed the venerable and attractive Maple Leaf penny and advised retailers to round-down on amounts ending in $0.01 and $0.02, while rounding-up on amounts of $0.03 and $0.04. Thus, my two cents shall be rounded down to zero, which is probably where it belongs.

(I mention this to my American friends who might unfortunately be travelling in Canada, so that you'll know why you're alternately being stiffed or bonused when receiving change. It's another new layer on traditionally rude Canadian retail and hospitality service. Fact is, we're invariably polite and apologetic when we bump into you in a crowded doorway but inexcusably rude when we're paid to serve you. It's an unfortunate legacy of our deep English roots. Sorry.)

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Well the radio was an easy fix. Just routed it back through the light switch. The power antenna did not work from the same source, so is back connected to the ganged Potter & Bloomfield VE4-45F11 relays(I didn't read technical school matchbook ads for nothing ya know!).

That I assume is because it is a later aftermarket unit. I suspect if I could find an original(not likely), it'd work just fine with the light switch.

Now the starter is another story. The carb is rebuilt but suspect the heat riser may be sticking as she doesn't idle without a little nudge on the gas until there is some temp. That might be a problem with the pedal start so needs to be addressed first.

And Rob, you can bet your bottom looney,when comes time to redoing below the side moldings, I'll consult you as to color oops colour!

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if the heat riser valve is stuck open, I would leave it open.

If, it is stuck closed, or part way closed, I would remove it.

It might take a couple of more minutes to warm up. But, it's not worth a potential exhaust restriction to keep it.

A well timed (tuned) engine will start easily with the carburettor starter switch. (Properly timed [tuned] is what you want carburettor switch start or push button start).

Sent from my BlackBerry 9370 using Tapatalk

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