Won't fire on Starting fluid

[atlbluz]

My 1938 Plymouth has been sitting for way too long. 20 years. I have drained the old gas, and other fluids to get ready to crank the engine. I added a little Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder. I finally have gotten spark to the plugs, but it will not fire even on Starting fluid. Does anyone have any good ideas. I have new plugs, rotor and condenser. Any help would be appreciated. Greg

[frank29u]

I don't know about good idea, but my 29 Ply would not fire after sitting for only 1.5 years. I carefully cleaned points in place with 400 sandpaper and that did the trick. Is your spark strong enough? Could valves be stuck open? Mine didn't run worth a darn until the carburetor (updraft) was completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. Good luck. frank

[atlbluz]

The points look good. I don't remember how good the spark should be. I think the valves are ok, I cranked it to get the oil pressure a couple of weeks ago, before I triued to even start it. I had pretty good suction at the carb. I'll try cleaning the points and see what that will do. Thanks

[hchris]

My 1938 Plymouth has been sitting for way too long. 20 years. I have drained the old gas, and other fluids to get ready to crank the engine. I added a little Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder. I finally have gotten spark to the plugs, but it will not fire even on Starting fluid. Does anyone have any good ideas. I have new plugs, rotor and condenser. Any help would be appreciated. Greg

From the getgo you need fuel and spark, beyond that there could be a host of reasons for not starting. So to begin with the fundamentals; as you have tried unsuccesfully with starter fluid, how to check the spark ? easyist way is to remove the high tension lead from the top of the distributor cap and position the metal tip within say 1/4 inch of the block or some good metalic earth point, now wind the starter and see that you have a nice blue spark from the tip of the high tension lead.

If you dont have a spark, lift the cap off the distibutor, manually turn the engine to a position where the points are closed, turn ignition on and with a small tip screwdriver or similar open and close the points, you should see a small spark occur at the points, be careful not to earth the screwdriver against any part of the distributor, and you may need to be in shade or darken the area as the spark may not be highly visible in bright light; no spark here means you have to start back tracking wiring/connections, condensor etc. all the way to switch and starter button.

If all the above is good then start with the fuel system and beyond that compression checks, timing and so on and if you need further assistance just ask.

[Restorer32]

Like most things today Starting Fluid has been "dumbed down" considerably. It wll take more fluid than you might think to make it fire. Turn off all accessories and use a 12 volt battery to crank it faster if nothing else works.

[nickelroadster]

Remember that if you have fuel and spark it should at least fire. Have you considered that you might have stuck valves and therefore no compression?

[aussiecowboy]

I always tow start cars that have been sitting like this, too hard on the starter otherwise. Nice steady pace, start with the ignition off until you see oil pressure and then turn ignition on. I think sometimes sleeping cars just take a while to wake up.

[atlbluz]

I finally got it to fire. Replaced dist cap, rotor and condenser. Added new plugs the spark looked weak. Tested the coil it was fine. I finally took 400 grit sandpaper with contact cleaner and really worked over the points, althought they looked good they were hazed over. It finally fired and rean for about 15 seconds. This weekend I will make a gravity feed into the carb bowl and try for about 5 minutes. Then I need to pull the radiator and rebuild the water pump and clean out the radiator.

[Guest carlnut50]

I was going to remind you that on the Chrysler stuff you can install the dist. 180 deg off in case you had it out. Then it will only pop into the intake and exhaust manifolds. It is easier for me to remove the dist. when doing work on it because you are leaning way down to get to it.

[atlbluz]

I was going to remind you that on the Chrysler stuff you can install the dist. 180 deg off in case you had it out. Then it will only pop into the intake and exhaust manifolds. It is easier for me to remove the dist. when doing work on it because you are leaning way down to get to it.

I didn't take it out, but I pull the side panel off since I am verticlally challenged.