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Starts and then immediately stalls


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Guest breather

Hi! I have a 1990 Reatta in which I just changed the intake manifold. Thought I had everything reinstalled how it came off but evidently NOT. The car does start but shuts right off. the only thing I could guess is that the vacuum lines are no correct or not . Upon checking, I don't see any loose vacuum lines or electrical connections dangling or loose. Any ideas?? I turned the idle up to keep the car running so I can do some errands in need. It slams into gear because of the high idle and I imagine is not too good for the tranny etc. PLEASE HELP!

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Did you jostle the MAF? Try disconnecting it and see if it runs better.

How did you raise the idle? It's not adjustable.

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If you can keep it running with increased throttle, the IAC as mentioned is possible, or a large vacuum leak as you surmised. A small leak should just raise the idle. The MAF suggestion is excellen as well. A vacuum gauge will give a good idea of a leak or not. Certain the intake manifold is sealed to the head? All plugs to the sensors installed: water temp, IAC, TPS and MAF?

It is possible to change the minimum idle speed with the throttle stop screw and nut combination where the throttle arm hits. If so, it will need to be returned to the correct position after fixing the stalling problem. The only way I know of doing so is to force the IAC closed in the overide, disconnect it, and set the stop screw down to about 500 rpm idle, and lock it down. The IAC will pick up the rest to the correct idle speed.

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It will be interesting to see what is causing this problem. I think if it was a vacuum leak or a bad sensor the IAC would be trying to compensate and there would be some RPM fluctuation before the engine dies that he didn't mention. I always look forward to hearing the outcome of a good mystery. :)

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Key is what the IAC is being commanded and whether any codes are set. Throttle up screw is designed so the butterflys can close completely (IAC is in parallel) without sticking.Since everything is discoonnected when changing a manifold, that is where to start. BTW idle over 1400 rpm when warm is liable to set a code.

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Guest crazytrain2

Call me crazy (lol) but try disconnecting the negative terminal on battery wait about 5 minutes or so and then reconnect (This clears the settings) and then start up the engine. I know that when I tore into my intake manifold I had to unplug all the electrical connectors and when I reconnected it would barely even run until I cleared things. Worth a shot IMO

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