How Bad is it to Change the Struts on a '90?

[ol' yeller]

I've read the procedure on Ronnie's site and the FSM. It doesn't look to be all that difficult. My local Les Schwab wanted over $800 to change all 4 assuming the mounts were OK. That seemed really steep to me. I'm not looking for instructions on how to do it, I'd just like input from those who have been there. Another option for me would be to buy them through Ronnies site and take them to a friend/mechanic who would probably charge a lot less. How physical is the job? I have some limitations due to heart problems.

[DAVES89]

Baumgarts [a tire and suspension shop] in Appleton charged me $250.00 to swap them out. I supplied the struts and mounts. I believe it also included the alignment. I would not do it at home for what I paid.

I did have to come back as the rear wheels needed shims. That was another $100.00.

I thought the strut job was cheap and the shim job high, but combining the two jobs and the pricing it was fair.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Get a three pound short sledge hammer and a good solid strut compressor (might e was $40 10 years ago from craftsman do not use a cheap) and a Saturday with beer. I suggest doing the tie rods and sway bar links while you are there.

[KDirk]

Concur with what Daniel has posted. I will add:

PLEASE BE CAREFUL!

And, no the all caps is not out of line for this. I almost had my ticket punched (so to speak) when doing fronts on my 91 as the spring popped out of the compression tool under extreme pressure (was already mostly compressed for assembly onto the strut) and let me tell you: you do not want to face that scenario, as it may be the last thing you see. Luckily (comparatively speaking) I took it in the knee and just got bruised really bad. If it had taken a different trajectory, it could've clipped me in the chest or face and probably would've be the end of me given the force and velocity at which it escaped. So, I cannot stress enough to have a good spring compressor and to know exactly what you are doing before attempting this job.

In fact, I might suggest having a shop assemble the struts for you and then install the complete units into the car if doing this yourself. The money paid to have the springs and bearing plates put onto the struts will be well spent for avoiding the need to mess with that part of the job.

KDirk

[ol' yeller]

Are bearing plates required at changeout? I have no clunking or banging in the struts. The fronts squeek a little bit going over speed bumps and the rears seem a to be somewhat harsh on potholes. The car has only 90K miles and I assume they are original struts. I did a strut job years ago on a 74 Superbeetle so I am well aquainted with using spring compressors. They make a version with safety locks that keep them from slipping off the springs which is what I'd probably get before doing the job. I'm kind of leaning towards buying the struts and taking them to a friend to install. The problem is that I can do anything in my head but the reality of doing physical stuff in my current health condition is usually a lot more difficult. I can still do intricate repairs that require care and time, just not the heavy physical stuff any more.

[2seater]

It really depends on the level of work you can do yourself. IMHO the fronts are easier to remove, but more dangerous due to removal and installation of the spring. They could be taken to a shop as a complete assembly for the spring swap to the new strut but you will still need an alignment afterwards. I would certainly replace the bearing plate as long as all apart. Daniels suggestion of related parts replacement is valid also, although they could be done later as a separate operation if needed. The rears are safe from a physical standpoint, just a big shock absorber, but getting the top nut off proved to be a toughy for me, even though my car is salt free. If your mechanic friend will do them for a few hundred $$, it sounds like it may be money well spent.

[Ronnie]

I would agree that you should take the car to a mechanic if you have any doubts about your ability to do the work. I've changed the struts on several cars and removing the spring can be dangerous if not done properly.

I have used several different spring compressors to do the job. I rented a compressor with a narrow hook that slipped on the spring before I got enough tension on the spring. Luckily all I got was a blood blister pinched on my finger. I took it back and got one that had a wide spring hook before I continued with taking the spring off.

If you intend to do the job yourself I would highly recommend you rent or buy a spring compressor with a safety feature that will keep the compressor attached to the spring to prevent it from coming off the spring if it slips. The spring compressor in the Reatta Store has safety pins that keep it locked on the coils of the spring.

All spring compressors can be dangerous if care isn't taken to keep them from slipping. The one that is listed in the Reatta Store is the safest design that I have used. There are probably some better ones but they cost more than most weekend mechanics are willing to spend. This one would be my choice or one similar if you are going to purchase one..

OEM 25550 Strut Spring Compressor - The Reatta Store

[Guest crazytrain2]

Daniel is also correct about the two pound sledge hammer, I had one heck of a time persuading the two bolts to come out of the steering knuckle connection. Leave the nuts losely on the end the bolts so as not to mushroom the threads of bolts as you knock them through. Pretty sure you will need a 15/16" box end wrench and an adjustable wrench for that top nut. I would also count the number of turns it takes to remove that top nut and duplicate when installing the replacement.

I forget what they refer to them as but they sell new struts in a complete assembly and pre-compressed. You might want to look at that route for replacements.

** I sort of took it for granted that the pre-assembled "quick struts" were available for Reatta. After seeing Ronnies post and checking for them I could not find them either. Sorry about that.**

As a question for the group - can you use the "cam" type of bolts instead of the stock version to give you camber adjustment? I see no other way to adjust camber unless you add an adapter to the mount at the top of strut tower. Just curious.

Edited March 30, 2013 by crazytrain2
My mistake (see edit history)

[Ronnie]

As a question for the group - can you use the "cam" type of bolts instead of the stock version to give you camber adjustment? I see no other way to adjust camber unless you add an adapter to the mount at the top of strut tower. Just curious.

Camber is adjusted with the two bolts that clamp the bottom of the strut to the knuckle. You have to slot the bolt holes in the strut tower to adjust caster if needed.

Here is the kit you might need:

Moog K90476 Camber Adjusting Bolt Kit - The Reatta Store

[Ronnie]

Wait a minute. Are we talking Park Ave. or Reatta on the front end adjustment?

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

All reatta bolts are metric.

Exception is on the engine, mainly internals.

Edited March 30, 2013 by D-a-n-i-e-l
because I can (see edit history)

[2seater]

If I remember correctly, on my '90, there is a small camber adjustment bolt facing the outside and above the clamp bolts. It is used to fine adjust the camber and then lock the large clamp bolts in place. It is just an assist for the adjustment and is not large enough to be structural.

The assembled struts with spring are called Quick Struts by at least one manufacturer.

[Ronnie]

I haven't been able to find a fully assembled strut/spring combo for the Reatta. If anyone knows of one please let me know. I would like to add it to The Reatta Store

[ol' yeller]

I don't find any either Ronnie.