My 1931 Model 67

[JoelsBuicks]

I need your help.  It may be a bit early for this but the hood seal material or in this case the bonnet seal / webbing / lacing that attaches to the cowl is a bit of a mystery to me.  This fabric ribbon also attaches to the chrome grill and provides for a seal.

 

Having no remnants for these, I need the width of these (probably 7/8” or 1”) and I need to know how it fastens to both the cowl and the grill.  I may have seen brass split rivets at the grill but I just don’t recall.

 

The cowl (see pic) has these sunken spots for some sort of connector; perhaps a special screw and/or nut?  It actually looks like the hole and metal may be a thread to some kind of screw.  
 

All input is appreciated!

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I’ve been working on the bonnet.  Years ago I had these plastic-blasted to remove paint and then I sand blasted the rusted areas as the plastic did not touch the rust.  At first glance they looked in pretty good shape.  A closer look showed waves and wrinkles.

 

A careful hammer and lead shot bag as a dolly worked wonders and left for only very thin filler application.  A stiff and flat sanding block with stickyback 40 grit then 60 grit paper did a fast job in roughing the right shape.  
 

Side note, I love the 40 grit blue paper to shape newly cured polyester filler.  It requires very little pressure to do it’s thing and so flattening with a good stiff block is easy.  The downside is the deep scratch left behind and you have to be careful to not remove too much.  I usually follow with a 60 grit - so I don’t feel so guilty.

 

For me, even though it’s tempting to smooth the scratches With 180 or 220, I go straight to the high build primer.  It won’t entirely fill the scratches but it facilitates the much needed blocking to get things right.

 

 

 

Edited June 27, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[JoelsBuicks]

I started blocking the high build with 220 and realized that my bodywork still had issues and I was having a tough time seeing what was going on.  So, I used another high build primer, white and one that achieves a non shrink hardness very quickly.  
 

I taped off those louvres to avoid a bunch of unnecessary buildup.  
 

[JoelsBuicks]

The blocking with 220 and then 320 revealed a lot of problems that are difficult to detect without that color contrast.  I have used a guide coat before but didn’t need one.  It really amazes me what shows up once you start blocking.

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

Before any topcoating begins, I need a final coat of black epoxy on the backside.  This stuff seems to have the right amount of gloss  and once it cures, it won’t hardly blast off.  I’m hooked.

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

Three coats of gray epoxy primer is applied and sanded with 400.  A lot of effort goes into masking off the black epoxy on the reverse side - you don’t want any of that gray primer on that black backside. 
 

Just prior to topcoating I sprayed a highly reduced gray epoxy for the seal coat.  The single stage urethane color is branded as Wanda. 
 

I was pleased with the results and very glad to have the bonnet behind me.  Those hinged pieces were awkward to handle.

 

 

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[usnavystgc]

My gosh, it looks beautiful.

[JoelsBuicks]

Thank you!  Sonar Tech?  My childhood friend and still a great friend is a Navy Chaplain.   Think he’s been at it for about 38 years.

[usnavystgc]

Yes, you're correct, a Sonar Tech.  or as we like to joke around and say, STG stands for Sander, Tiler and Grouter.   cuz we did more of that than technical stuff.

[JoelsBuicks]

I needed to make some progress on the body and decided to start working on the roof.  A few years ago when I built the wood I had a bright idea to cover the wood with black polyethylene- 1/8” thick.  My reason was that I didn’t want those wooden slats to show through when the top cloth was resting against them.  I recessed the wood an eighth inch to accommodate the plastic sheet.  
 

Today I finished cutting the sheet and installed it with screws and black seam sealer.

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I used a white marker for gridding the screw locations.  I predrilled and then countersunk each screw.  
 

This turned out ok but I still don’t know how the top cloth gets fastened down.  In the next post or two I’ll seek some input on how to do this.

 

 

Edited July 19, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[Erndog]

Interesting way to do the roof. Might have to try that if I ever get that far.

[JoelsBuicks]

On 7/21/2022 at 7:52 PM, Erndog said:

Interesting way to do the roof. Might have to try that if I ever get that far.

Probably not one of my better ideas.  I just didn’t like the thought of chicken wire supporting a thin cotton blanket up above those wooden slats.

[JoelsBuicks]

The sheet metal surrounding the roof opening had a lot of small dents.  I pounded out them best I could back after blasting but before the epoxy.  The filler seen in the pics is very thin.  This part will eventually be painted black.  

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

The repairs exposed a lot of bare metal and so I got it moved to the paint booth and coated with epoxy.

 

Of course the epoxy reveals many slight undulations.  Rather than trying to use filler, I went ahead and followed the epoxy with high build urethane primer.

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I’m using a homemade sanding block; most all of my sanding blocks are improvised.  My sanding block arsenal includes a number of store bought stuff but I rarely use them.  By the way, I haven’t learned to use any power sanders yet.  Every time I try, I end up taking off too much.  I do it all manually.  
 

This sanding block is a piece of synthetic flooring which is surprisingly stiff.  I fashioned a handle out of duct tape.  I’m sanding the high build with 220, wish I had 180.

 

 

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

The long sanding block quickly finds the highs and lows.  Most of these will sand out in the high build but I like to use a thin glazing putty.  Basically it’s very thin body filler.  
 

The process is to block out this glaze and high build primer and then recoat with more high build.

 

That reinforced glass mixing plate is one that my Dad got for me when I was 16.  I’m now 58!

 

thanks again for watching.

Joel

 

 

Edited August 2, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[EmTee]

9 hours ago, JoelsBuicks said:

I’m using a homemade sanding block; most all of my sanding blocks are improvised.

I frequently use a paint stirring stick...

 

Roof looks beautiful (like everything else)!

[JoelsBuicks]

1 hour ago, EmTee said:

I frequently use a paint stirring stick...

 

Roof looks beautiful (like everything else)!

Glad you mentioned the paint stirring stick.  When I first heard of that I didn’t take it seriously, thinking it sounded like a heavy duty nail file.  Finally I gave it a try and it’s amazing just how many instances it becomes the perfect sanding block.  For instance, wrap it with 600 grit and easily sand out paint runs!

[usnavystgc]

Joel, All of your work looks so amazing.  Do you feel like painting a 56 Roadmaster when you're done? 

[JoelsBuicks]

Today I rolled the body back into my mechanics room (got some air conditioning in there!).  I started nailing on these sheet metal pieces that fit in the jamb areas of the door openings.  
 

I used some seam sealer to effectively glue these and also somewhat seal them.  They are also nailed into place. I use a light hammer to roll the nail heads to conform with the metal corners.  Originally, the nail heads were not hidden but they were subtle.  I’m afraid mine will be even less subtle.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 2, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[JoelsBuicks]

19 hours ago, usnavystgc said:

Joel, All of your work looks so amazing.  Do you feel like painting a 56 Roadmaster when you're done? 

That pumpkin colored car?  I love that color.  My first restoration was a ‘71 orange Karmann Ghia back in ‘79.  Are you going to paint it single stage urethane?  I love painting but the body work can be painful.

[usnavystgc]

1 minute ago, JoelsBuicks said:

That pumpkin colored car?

That's the one.  Yes, I plan to paint it single stage urethane.  I just think its a very nice color and it was only offered for about 6 months from what I can tell.  The name of the color is Bittersweet.

 

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

Wow, over three months since my last post.  I have been busy trying to put my woodshop back together.  It’s a rather long and boring story so in brief, I had a lot of woodworking  tools that needed their own space.  All of this in preparation to get the wood into my Buick doors.

Originally, the door metal was placed around a wood frame and then the edges crimped around a metal jamb and then nailed onto the wood frame.  Wood replacement now requires the wooden frame be built into the door.  Basically this means the joinery and the assembly sequence needs to be planned.  

 

[JoelsBuicks]

No matter how rotted the original wood is, I use whatever is left as a guide for the new wood.  Many times you can use one side to create the mirror image for the other side.  This helps when pieces are almost all rotted away. 
 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I have found that the easiest way to get the curves right is to use thin plywood and a small hand plane to shape the curve and repeatedly test and shape until the plywood as the right curve.  Then I transfer the curve to a solid piece and cut it on a bandsaw.

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

Today, I installed the wood in both front doors.  Again, I use the seam sealer on wood surfaces that are against the metal.  This forms a strong bond in addition to all the nails and glue.  (I’m sure Buick would have used seam sealer if it were available in 1931 🧐)

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

This little corner brace is actually the old wood.  It’s a nice solid piece of white oak.  I’m going to reuse it!

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

Here’s an important rewooding rule:  save the worst for last.  I’ve been dreading these back doors for a while.  Three big reasons; that big curved piece has three sides compound curved,  it is also part of a hinge and a critical joint, and most importantly, this door is susceptible to being glued up twisted.  
 

I could also mention that the belt board that fits up below the window is supposed to mortise into the two vertical members - but that’s now impossible so another way has to be created.  
 

I dug out this old door cradle that I used for a ‘36 rewood years ago.  With some modifications, I have made it work for the back door.  Again, this door has to be glued up without a twist.

 

[JoelsBuicks]

There is a metal separation at the lower hinge, shown in a picture.  I know this will give me fits later so I decide to weld it together.  If everything is done correctly with the woodwork, it would have ended up together anyhow.  I hope I don’t end up dreading this.

 

I’m positive that if Buick had a Millermatic wire welder back in 1931, this would already have been welded!

 

Ok, I admit that two doors are pictured below but both will end up welded (as long as I don’t regret the first one!)

 

 

 

Edited November 16, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[JoelsBuicks]

I may be making this harder than it has to be but the rear doors are proving to be the bear that I had feared.  And, it all has to do with having to assemble the wooden frame inside of a confined area.  There’s probably more time spent just thinking it through than the actual cutting/fitting.  
 

I try to focus more on the desired outcome than on originality.  I want a finished door that is strong, straight, functional and is capable of accepting nails and screws for holding its interior parts.  This means that some joints (most all of them actually) will be different - different so that assembly is possible.  
 

Final assembly happens after successful dry rehearsal.  Sequence is established before any glue is applied.  I’m not there yet with these back doors.

Those wide putty knives are used like shoehorns.

 

 

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

The joint between that curved piece and the vertical member that holds the three hinges is critical to keeping things straight.  It can be constructed identical to the original.  That, however, doesn’t mean it’s easy.

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

To finish off tonight’s posts, I wanted to mention how nice it is to have two table saws working.  I have one of these set up with a stacked dado blade.  I use this all the time but I also use regular saw blade as well.  It would be painful to have to be changing these all the time.

 

Thanks for watching!

 

 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I admire you "woodworkers".    ME?  I will stick with Post Wood,  thank you!

 

  Ben

[32buick67]

1 hour ago, JoelsBuicks said:

The joint between that curved piece and the vertical member that holds the three hinges is critical to keeping things straight.  It can be constructed identical to the original.  That, however, doesn’t mean it’s easy.

 

 

 

Joel,

I like your thinking chair...

 

As someone who has done plenty of fine woodworking, cabinetry, and also rugged timber framing, I can appreciate what you are doing and the challenges you are embracing.

Thank you for posting your craftsmanship and how you are overcoming the marriage of wood and metal.

I know that it takes an incredible amount of forethought and planning, and also safety and skills to execute to what you are accomplishing.

 

Congrats and hats off to all that you are doing.

 

Best,

Mario

 

[JoelsBuicks]

17 minutes ago, 32buick67 said:

I like your thinking chair...

My 88 year old Dad usually occupies that chair.  He’s as sharp as ever and he helps with the thinking - usually whether I ask for it or not!

 

There is no way that I would tackle this without a fully equipped woodshop.  Just today I can count 10 major stationary tools that I used.

 

I often complain but there is satisfaction in meeting the challenge.

 

Thanks again folks! 

 

 

[32buick67]

2 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

My 88 year old Dad usually occupies that chair.  He’s as sharp as ever and he helps with the thinking - usually whether I ask for it or not!

 

There is no way that I would tackle this without a fully equipped woodshop.  Just today I can count 10 major stationary tools that I used.

 

I often complain but there is satisfaction in meeting the challenge.

 

Thanks again folks! 

 

 

I hope your dad and his thinking chair are an ever-persistent inspiration for you... 

I think your shop is swell, roomy and well laid out!

Journeys are sometimes as rewarding as destinations...

[JoelsBuicks]

Yesterday’s goal was to glue up one back door.  I’ll claim a victory or success or whatever you call it but I won’t be entering this in any beauty contest.  One down one more to go.

 

That wooden cradle didn’t so much ‘keep’ this door straight (untwisted) as it provided verification that once assembled and glued, it wasn’t twisted.  
 

 

 
 

 

Edited November 20, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[JoelsBuicks]

At the very bottom of all of these doors and completely hidden by the wide board across the bottom, Buick had a board that funneled water to the center of the door where there is a gap made for draining water.  I took a couple pics of this board.  Nearly all of these original boards were completely rotted away.

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I noticed several earlier pics show the metal pitting inside these doors.  I was lucky that these were not through pits.  All of this was sand blasted to bare metal and then epoxy coated.  Before the wood, I did mix up some jbweld to fill those pits so they wouldn’t hold moisture.  

As I’ve said before, I’m too old to try and make the unseen parts perfect.   

Edited November 20, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)