1936 Dodge paint

[1936 D2]

Here is a start for you on Grey cars. I have these two shots, both of grey cars, but not sure of the colors of either. They are both repaints so talking about specific original colors or comparative color matches here may be moot.

I do know this Grey wheel color is original - but I don't know the name of the gray color for sure. It's a start.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

That's a sharp blue on the coupe. I could come to like that color a lot. I don't guess we'll ever know if that was an attempt at matching an original color or not. The owner took the effort to paint the "sunburst" on the wheel in a silver color. A number of the '36 colors called for silver on the wheels. The gray wheel is most likely the same color my coupe was originally. It, too, called for a silver contrast color on the wheel. It's likely that it's "Gunmetal" gray, All of the chip charts, even if they're not reliable, show Gunmetal as being considerably darker than Dolphin Gray.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

For what it's worth, I'll contribute a picture of a sedan in that's been repainted in an attempt at an original color. I kept the image because I recall the the ad for it stated it had been painted it's original factory "Avon Green". Also, an old wheel from another listing that looks to be original. My info states that the wheels on an Avon green car would have "whirlpool" green on the them.

[jpage]

I don't think the car in the above photo is Avon Green . It looks more olive tone ,the Avon Green is much lighter. My car is supposed to be Avon Green and it had the silver accents on the wheels and the back of the wheels were silver also. I have seen several cars painted in a similar color a the car above but it does not match the Avon Green chips at all.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

I don't think the car in the above photo is Avon Green . It looks more olive tone ,the Avon Green is much lighter. My car is supposed to be Avon Green and it had the silver accents on the wheels and the back of the wheels were silver also. I have seen several cars painted in a similar color a the car above but it does not match the Avon Green chips at all.

Well, I appreciate your input! I guess that what remains is "Palm Green", "Hunter Green" and a spring only offering of "Harvester Green". While it would be fun to get all of this straight, I can tell that it will never happen.

[Guest 1930]

If I had a 36 or more time I would spray out color cards of the different colors avail.

[1936 D2]

I don't think the car in the above photo is Avon Green . It looks more olive tone ,the Avon Green is much lighter...

This is the photo I have for an original Avon Green car. I think this one was in SE MI if I recall correctly.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

That could very well be Avon Green. I sure that most folks realize that paints not only fade over time, but they also shift as red and blue elements diminish and yellow and green remain stronger. Here's an older half-primered example of what I imagine was Avon Green and a couple of pics that I don't know anything about.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

Also, for what it's worth a few other greens that I've latched onto along the way. Some of the examples are Plymouth. They mostly had the same colors with the same or similar names, although Plymouth did have an Aquamarine that I'm not sure I've found in any of my Dodge chip charts. Remember, this is just an demonstration of variety. I think we already proven that an image of someone's car is no indication that the color is authentic.

[jpage]

Here are some photos of Avon green. The lighting caused the paint to have a blueish tint but it's actually a light green similar to the light pastel greens you see on current model cars . The camera just didn't pick up the right color.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

Do you have any old chip charts available to compare your car's paint to? I doubt if you'll want to hear this, but I don't think that your color is Avon Green. Avon Green is a bright yellowish-green. Even though my old chip charts can't be trusted for much, the Avon Green chips really do come quite close to the photos above. I think that your color has quite a bit of blue in it. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's Palm Green. 36D2, would you mind telling us where to write to the Chrysler Corp to get the build sheet that you referenced? It would be very interesting to know for sure what colors jpage and my cars were originally. I'm sure that there's other info that would be interesting, as well.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

A gentleman named Lynn Wicker made some relevant remarks on the subject of the BASF Color Max system in a recent thread on the Plymouth section of this forum. He indicated that BASF had an Antique Color Chips CD available. Available to whom, I don't know, but it might be an interesting pursuit.

http://forums.aaca.org/f154/can-anyone-translate-1930-paint-codes-336696.html

[Guest 1930]

A gentleman named Lynn Wicker made some relevant remarks on the subject of the BASF Color Max system in a recent thread on the Plymouth section of this forum. He indicated that BASF had an Antique Color Chips CD available. Available to whom, I don't know, but it might be an interesting pursuit.

http://forums.aaca.org/f154/can-anyone-translate-1930-paint-codes-336696.html

I have this and it does not give any more info than what I mentioned in the last few posts but still worth having

Edited November 2, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[35cz8]

Here is a link to the Chrysler Historical Society services page. I ordered the build card for my 1930 DC8 and my 1936 RS cp and that is how I know what color my cp was when it left the factory. It also gives the dealer the car was sent to, the engine number, body number and date the car was shipped. A lot of good info if you want to restore a car to original factory.

Chrysler Historical Services - Walter P. Chrysler Museum Foundation

These are good people that will help all they can.

BC

Do you have any old chip charts available to compare your car's paint to? I doubt if you'll want to hear this, but I don't think that your color is Avon Green. Avon Green is a bright yellowish-green. Even though my old chip charts can't be trusted for much, the Avon Green chips really do come quite close to the photos above. I think that your color has quite a bit of blue in it. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's Palm Green. 36D2, would you mind telling us where to write to the Chrysler Corp to get the build sheet that you referenced? It would be very interesting to know for sure what colors jpage and my cars were originally. I'm sure that there's other info that would be interesting, as well.

Edited November 2, 2012 by 35cz8 (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

Here are some photos of Avon green. The lighting caused the paint to have a blueish tint but it's actually a light green similar to the light pastel greens you see on current model cars . The camera just didn't pick up the right color.

Wow! That "Avon Green" sample you show on the engine compartment side pans sure LOOKS like a perfect match to my "Mercury Metallic"! Are you sure about the source of that as "Avon Green"?

[jpage]

yeah, it's definatley green. As I said the camera did not pick up the correct color which is not uncommon as you can see a blue car in the movies and it is actually green. There are only three green body colors that I know of for '36. Avon green,Palm green(which is dark) and Archer(Hunter) green which is much different color. Fron the other samples, cowl,inside of body overspray and under the deck lid it all points to Avon green. It is a ligher green,I'm sure it has some blue and yellow toners in it, but I know ,at least according to the color charts, it's closets to Avon Green. If you have ever seen the advertisement with Bing Crosby, it shows a car that is roughly the same color. Also the two page fold out that shows the different body styles shows a car that's very close too. It is definately not blue!

[1936 D2]

Just asking... Is it possible those side pans came from a different car in the past some time? Maybe there was front end damage that was repaired during the car's lifetime?

Also, if you used a strobe type flash (as on a modern digital camera) for your pan photos, that light is very similar to daylight and would help the colors render accurately.

Edited November 2, 2012 by 1936 D2 (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

Hudsy... Also, I am quite sure the center photo in post #48 is the same car as in the dealer photo with the blue and yellow striped background in post #43. I had followed some of the info on that car as it was for sale. Just for reference concerning the color shifting comments. (One was taken probably under fluorescent lighting and the other is an outdoor shot.)

[1936 D2]

jpage... Here is an attempt at trying to find the correct white balance for the pan photos you took earlier. That is in an effort to try and find the correct color of the paint on the pan and fix the color shift you were mentioning. I made an assumption the sheet in the background was white and then tried to make the rust the typical more brown color of dry rust. Now that is two assumptions - the sheet is white and the panel was dry. If that's the case then the right half of this photo should be closer to the color you see on the panel on your end.

Let us know!

[jpage]

1936d2, That color enhancement does make a difference and the right half is closer to the original color. Now you can see the green!

[Hudsy Wudsy]

Here's a link to page which has a couple of different photos of the coupe in post #41. Perhaps it was shot on a sunnier day or with a little more exposure. Of course there's no way of knowing if that's Stratosphere blue or not, but it sure is pretty!

1936 Dodge 2Door Coupe | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[1936 D2]

Hi Hudsy: The '37 DeSoto Coupe just to the left of it in the photo stream looks to be an original paint car. That is what has been identified to me as "Stratosphere Blue" in the past. DeSoto may give it a different name though.

I think the '36 Coupe that was the target of the Flickr link you just posted, is a "close" modern mix match to "Mercury Metallic". It IS a very nice looking color though, even if not "right on" to that color. (My opinion).

The thing that is a confusing factor to all this are the cars that are painted with the "Spring Showing" and "Summer Special" colors. Those colors were of limited production, listed on paint charts that had no color chips that I have ever seen, and do not seem to have the regular three digit paint code numbers listed on those same charts. Makes one think they did not have the three digit codes for those "Special" colors.

There are two colors listed in those "Special" colors that have names that could make you think of much lighter colors like: "Blue Cloud (#'s 2,3 or 4)" and "Star Blue (#'s 1 or 4)". These COULD be what has been presented to us in the past as "Stratosphere Blue". When you look at every other paint chip chart that has been published out there, it seems that the chips for "Stratosphere Blue" are WAY darker than what we may have been told were "Stratosphere Blue" cars in the past. It is hard for me to believe that ALL those paint charts' chips from numerous different companies ALL shifted so heavily from a very light sky blue looking color to a blue that is much darker and closer to the "Mercury Metallic" look. I think what is happening is we are looking at cars that have been painted with one of those blues from the "Spring Showing" or "Summer Special" set of colors.

I wish we were able to find an owner of one of these original paint, very light blue cars (maybe Keiser's friend in CA with the '35) and see a copy of that car's Build Record telling what the factory color is that we see on their car. That finally may start identifying this "Stratosphere Blue" dilemma.

[1936 D2]

1936d2, That color enhancement does make a difference and the right half is closer to the original color. Now you can see the green!

So, how close is the look of that photo to the actual green you are seeing on your panel (as viewed in the sun)? I have a feeling the color on my "corrected" photo is too "intense". The color may be close but the color saturation may be too high in that rendition.

Let me know. I'm just trying to hit the color you are seeing on your end for clarity sake. I am trying to use the white sheet (if that is what it was) and the rust to make it come out to the more correct paint color.

[jpage]

1936D2, you're pretty close on the color,probably about as close as you're going to get. I don't know how to fiddle with photos like that!Those are original panels off of my early car Serial no.(4072128) so if the numbers are consistant it's car no. 57,077. There are lots of color samples on the car but having sat out for many years there's not a large enough sample (must be flat) to get a good computerized match. When I get a chance I'm going to try to match colors with a modern paint book. There are several that look close. I'd like to get a build card but just don't have the extra cash right now as I'm just getting back to work after a couple of heart attacks. I did have a parts car that was Gunmetal Gray but it's long gone! I'm not sure what color of my third car was as it was repainted several times but I suspect black. I did not see any factory markings pertaining to paint color or trim in any of the cars. The only markings I found were the words OK in chalk on the back of the door lock panels under the trim panels. All three cars had the same pile interiors with dark gray cardboard kick panels and firewall panel. If you're interested I could mail you a sample to see what you think,just pm me your address. Thanks for your help. Jim

[1936 D2]

OK. So if those panels are original to the car, then I think you have a very good sample piece for computerized color matching. They were out of the UV light most all their life and I doubt if anyone ever waxed those. The only thing that could have caused issues are engine chemicals getting on them. But they look pretty even in color so I doubt that would be an issue either.

I'm pretty sure you can ask for the Build Card without "decoding" and that would bring the cost down to $25.00 I think. We here can do all the "decoding" you would need (possibly better than the CHS). Almost all of the decode letters I have seen have had SOME form of error on them, usually related to the actual misreading of the data from the Build Record.

We seem to be pretty sure the wheel I showed in post #41 is the "Gunmetal Gray" you were commenting on.

Yup, the "OK" in chalk on the door lock panels is very common to still be able to see. The only place that I have personally seen where the color was marked in chalk is on the right rear "sail panel" or "D" pillar (on a 4dr Tr Sed). Once the cardboard is removed from there you can see the model designation (D2), the body style (Sed) and the color. That apparently was some way for the assembly line to make double sure the correct color was applied while the car came through the line.

The "Pile" interior was the most popular I think with the "Bedford Cord" a close second. Most cars had the gray cardboard on the two kick panels, firewall and the front of the rear seat riser. This same gray cardboard was also used in the trunk across the back and on both sides. I don't really need to see a sample of the cardboard. It is a fairly common color that is available from upholstery shops. You just need to find pieces that are big enough to cover the large spots (firewall & trunk) and are approximately the same thickness. This is an upholstery material and not just plain card stock. It is fairly thick - maybe 1/8". The firewall piece has a flat rubber flap sewn on across the bottom and the kick panels have edging sewn on and some tapered cup washers for the screws to hold it in place.

Edited November 3, 2012 by 1936 D2 (see edit history)

[35cz8]

This is some great info being shared and I wanted to thank everyone that is taking part and sharing their knowledge and experience. Thanks, I will continue to follow and save this thread.

[Guest 1930]

OK. So if those panels are original to the car, then I think you have a very good sample piece for computerized color matching. They were out of the UV light most all their life and I doubt if anyone ever waxed those. The only thing that could have caused issues are engine chemicals getting on them. But they look pretty even in color so I doubt that would be an issue either.

I'm pretty sure you can ask for the Build Card without "decoding" and that would bring the cost down to $25.00 I think. We here can do all the "decoding" you would need (possibly better than the CHS). Almost all of the decode letters I have seen have had SOME form of error on them, usually related to the actual misreading of the data from the Build Record.

We seem to be pretty sure the wheel I showed in post #41 is the "Gunmetal Gray" you were commenting on.

Yup, the "OK" in chalk on the door lock panels is very common to still be able to see. The only place that I have personally seen where the color was marked in chalk is on the right rear "sail panel" or "D" pillar (on a 4dr Tr Sed). Once the cardboard is removed from there you can see the model designation (D2), the body style (Sed) and the color. That apparently was some way for the assembly line to make double sure the correct color was applied while the car came through the line.

The "Pile" interior was the most popular I think with the "Bedford Cord" a close second. Most cars had the gray cardboard on the two kick panels, firewall and the front of the rear seat riser. This same gray cardboard was also used in the trunk across the back and on both sides. I don't really need to see a sample of the cardboard. It is a fairly common color that is available from upholstery shops. You just need to find pieces that are big enough to cover the large spots (firewall & trunk) and are approximately the same thickness. This is an upholstery material and not just plain card stock. It is fairly thick - maybe 1/8". The firewall piece has a flat rubber flap sewn on across the bottom and the kick panels have edging sewn on and some tapered cup washers for the screws to hold it in place.

There is zero possibility that you can use any portion of paint found within any area of these vehicles and use that as a good reference point for getting the appropriate display of what the original color truly was.

Wether the paint is exposed, not exposed, been waxed or not and any other number of instances that can be offered makes little difference after all these years.

Paint breaks down after time, you will have your tints within the paint turn to powder ( some sooner than others ) and literally fall off the panel over time.

I am sure we have all seen the original paint jobs with the brighter and not so bright spots, paint does not require direct sunlight to be exposed to light that is harmful.

All and any light is harmful, not to mention the heating and cooling affect that is constantly changing and the crap that is in the air that we breathe.

If you want to get it so so close ( which I know is just fine for the majority of us ) than yes by all means go for the option of trying to find a spot that is the least exposed to harmful elements as possible but if you want to get the color as true to the original as possible ( which is what the original poster mentioned wanting as his end result ) than you would need to consider using the original formulas as the starting point which is what specific paint companies ( some of which I have already noted within a previous post ) have spent an ungodly amount of time and money already doing for you.

Edited November 4, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

I guess it's time then that IF there IS someone out there that has the connections (with ANY paint company), to make contact with their professional paint products provider and get the specific current formulas for the 1936 Dodge colors. ALL the colors then could be posted here, we would not have to continue to "guesstimate" the colors, and THAT company would then get a boost in business from all the '36 owners who have a burning desire to have "original colors" on their pride and joy.

The average guy out here can't go to a paint jobber and get this info with out getting the sideways glance, or the bazillion questions. The average guy would not then have the confidence level that the big monies being spent on paint products would, even then, lead him to the assured "correct" colors.

So, if you have the ability to get that apparently treasured information, please, by all means, collect it ALL and post it here on this thread. There apparently IS a group here that is very interested AND would appreciate all the research time and data immeasurably!

My point is - What is the big secret? Show the current correct mix formulas for the "match" and lets all move on.

Edited November 4, 2012 by 1936 D2 (see edit history)

[jpage]

I've not been able to find any local paint supplier that could cross over any of the paint codes I have. One supplier said that he had a match (Ditzler I believe) crossed from my code numbers . He said it crossed to a Toyota color(Beauchamp Green) but it was a lot darker ,more like Palm Green. I've contacted the Auto Color library for a spray out card for their formula to check color match. By all means ,if someone has the modern formulas for the different colors please post them.

[Guest 1930]

I guess it's time then that IF there IS someone out there that has the connections (with ANY paint company), to make contact with their professional paint products provider and get the specific current formulas for the 1936 Dodge colors. ALL the colors then could be posted here, we would not have to continue to "guesstimate" the colors, and THAT company would then get a boost in business from all the '36 owners who have a burning desire to have "original colors" on their pride and joy.

The average guy out here can't go to a paint jobber and get this info with out getting the sideways glance, or the bazillion questions. The average guy would not then have the confidence level that the big monies being spent on paint products would, even then, lead him to the assured "correct" colors.

So, if you have the ability to get that apparently treasured information, please, by all means, collect it ALL and post it here on this thread. There apparently IS a group here that is very interested AND would appreciate all the research time and data immeasurably!

My point is - What is the big secret? Show the current correct mix formulas for the "match" and lets all move on.

Nice way to ask for help! Last line sorta killed it!

Edited November 5, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

I've not been able to find any local paint supplier that could cross over any of the paint codes I have. One supplier said that he had a match (Ditzler I believe) crossed from my code numbers . He said it crossed to a Toyota color(Beauchamp Green) but it was a lot darker ,more like Palm Green. I've contacted the Auto Color library for a spray out card for their formula to check color match. By all means ,if someone has the modern formulas for the different colors please post them.

Hello Jim, tell me what specific color you would like a formula for and I will see if I can get it, it may take a few days maybe better than a week, my time is limited just like everyone elses and since the shop I currently work for does not spray BASF products it may take some B.Sn on my part to produce something.

I am marginally curious enough though still at this point to see if I can get anywhere with this but certainly do not have the time or energy to go after every possible color available at this point.

Glad to help though in any way I can

Just for the heck of it Im gonna try and cross reference some of the codes I gave in post # 29 tomm on my scales database at work and see what happens.

Edited November 5, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

....it may take some B.Sn on my part to produce something.... Glad to help though in any way I can...

THIS is what I was getting at in my earlier post where I said, "My point is - What is the big secret?". This may have been mis-understood.

Why is this all such an apparent secret by all these paint companies? They all have their own apparently different tint bases and tint colors. So if we, the average guys, have any paint companies' particular formula information, it would only be useful for us to purchase paint from THAT particular supplier. Why can't this info just be obtained and posted here - for ALL the colors? As a for instance, take the BASF color code numbers, give them to BASF, get the formulas for their paint tints and bases, post them here. Sounds so simple. I don't understand the issues! It can only benefit any one particular paint company. You would think they would want to be the first company to get their product info out there!

THAT's my question - "What's the big secret?"

Sounds like there are two colors being asked for in this thread in particular - "Gunmetal Metallic - BASF#144" and "Avon Green - BASF#426" - so far. There is also discussion in the thread to accurately identify "Stratosphere Blue - BASF#418".

Here are the BASF '36 Paint Chart Codes for Dodge, DeSoto & Plymouth. This was not particularly easy for the average Joe to find on their website.

There is no specific code info available from BASF concerning the limited edition, non-production "Spring Showing" or "Summer Special" colors.

Here is a paint code chart with Ditzler codes from 1934 through 1939 which includes code numbers for the "Spring Showing" and Summer Special" colors. We have not seen chips for these colors as far as I am aware. If anyone has access to chips for these limited availability colors, I think we would all like to see them for comparison purposes.

[Guest 1930]

THIS is what I was getting at in my earlier post where I said, "My point is - What is the big secret?". This may have been mis-understood.

Why is this all such an apparent secret by all these paint companies? They all have their own apparently different tint bases and tint colors. So if we, the average guys, have any paint companies' particular formula information, it would only be useful for us to purchase paint from THAT particular supplier. Why can't this info just be obtained and posted here - for ALL the colors? As a for instance, take the BASF color code numbers, give them to BASF, get the formulas for their paint tints and bases, post them here. Sounds so simple. I don't understand the issues! It can only benefit any one particular paint company. You would think they would want to be the first company to get their product info out there!

THAT's my question - "What's the big secret?"

Sounds like there are two colors being asked for in this thread in particular - "Gunmetal Metallic - BASF#144" and "Avon Green - BASF#426" - so far. There is also discussion in the thread to accurately identify "Stratosphere Blue - BASF#418".

Here are the BASF '36 Paint Chart Codes for Dodge, DeSoto & Plymouth. This was not particularly easy for the average Joe to find on their website.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]161767[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]161768[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]161769[/ATTACH]

There is no specific code info available from BASF concerning the limited edition, non-production "Spring Showing" or "Summer Special" colors.

Here is a paint code chart with Ditzler codes from 1934 through 1939 which includes code numbers for the "Spring Showing" and Summer Special" colors. We have not seen chips for these colors as far as I am aware. If anyone has access to chips for these limited availability colors, I think we would all like to see them for comparison purposes.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]161770[/ATTACH]

Tints or colors are based off of a color wheel, there are not infinite variations to this wheel used within the field although it may appear otherwise.

Paint companies and bodyshop professionals use this wheel when formulating paint colors. It is one tool that we use to pinpoint variances in colors, often there can be a 6 dozen variances ( example, I have not looked thru the catalog of colors for this particular vehicle ) in the color of your 2012 Dodge Dakota due to paint abnormalities such as bleed thru, transparency, or any number of a possible dozen other issues with initial application of the same.

When these vehicles are painted paint manufacturers send the paint to the different plants, one plant might get a batch that for one reason or another is just not the same as another plant, again due to inconsistencies in processing or formulation, human error or mechanical.

My point is that the paint companies label their tints differently but the same basic colors are found within the same basic tints that are chosen as base tints.

My guess would be that they dont advertise the formulas because they have gone thru a great deal of effort and expense to re-calculate these old original formulas and once a formula is re-calculated it can be crossed over to any other possible other users tints with the punch of a key.

All paints/tints spray just a bit differently, to the keen eye they lay out differently, some are more user friendly than others, it has to do with how they process the tints I guess, binders ect I suppose.

To the average guy though this may not be a consideration he takes into account, to the average Joe who is wetting down the dirt and spraying inside of a tarp he will use the cheapest G.D. paint he can find and companies such as Dupont and BASF do not appreciate this.

They are in buisness to sell their paint so they will not advertise ( place on the internet ) their paint formulas for all the world to see just so some scumbag can come along and harvest their labor and give nothing in return.

Sorta like publishing the images we debate over from the Historical center.

Hope this makes sense.

Now contact BASF, turn it around upon yourself. .................There apparently IS a group here that is very interested AND would appreciate all the research time and data immeasurably!.............Spend the hours of time that it would take to gather all of this data, get your friends involved ( other 36 owners ) have them get the formulas for their own cars.

They are not going to give one single person ( even a juggernaut of an autobody professional such as myself ) all of the formulas in one fell swoop.

I can go on and on about paints but I think you get the jist of what may be important for you to understand. If there are more questions though feel free to ask. Just remember though there is more than one way to skin a cat, we all look at things differently and you wont ever get to body guys that share the identical opinions.

Get the formulas and make them accessible to people on this forum for future cars. Have patience and have fun.

Edited November 5, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[jpage]

Jason, the chip chart I have is a Murphy Auto Spraying Lacquer Chart fron 1936. The Avon Green code is ( blend 686 / L1230-629-668D) ; the Dodge Gunmetal code is ( Blend 582 / L1227-629-253). Surprisingly, most of the color chips on this particular card are very crisp and clear and the Avon Green chip is almost a deadringer for the color on the inner panel in the above photo. Interestingly too ,is the Dolphin Gray ,seems to have a very close resemblance to the Avon Green but it is slightly darker and the Mercury Metallic seems to fall in between,also with a green tint. The Stratosphere Blue however does present blue more like the color of 1936d2's car! The formulas listed on the back are : Avon Green( 10oz. Extra fine opalescent, 9 oz.Green, 8 oz. Med. Yellow,6 oz. Lamp Black = 33 oz. : Gunmetal ( 12 oz. Lamp black, 7 1/2 oz. White,6 oz. Burnt Umber,3 oz. Green,3oz. Extra fine Opal.= 31 1/2 oz. : . How would you ever match a formula like that today! Maybe you can do something with that info,I would appreciate it. Jim

[35cz8]

Jason, I would love to have the formula for the gunmetal poly if you have it. NO HURRY so just when you get to it would be great. I appreciate all the help you have been to me with my cars. Thanks,

Bob

Hello Jim, tell me what specific color you would like a formula for and I will see if I can get it, it may take a few days maybe better than a week, my time is limited just like everyone elses and since the shop I currently work for does not spray BASF products it may take some B.Sn on my part to produce something.

I am marginally curious enough though still at this point to see if I can get anywhere with this but certainly do not have the time or energy to go after every possible color available at this point.

Glad to help though in any way I can

Just for the heck of it Im gonna try and cross reference some of the codes I gave in post # 29 tomm on my scales database at work and see what happens.

[1936 D2]

There is a lot of color data discussed on this earlier thread also: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/1936-dodge-paint-chips-327404.html

This was back about 6 months ago. Interesting to watch how information is discovered and dispersed! Check it out too.

[Guest 1930]

Jason, the chip chart I have is a Murphy Auto Spraying Lacquer Chart fron 1936. The Avon Green code is ( blend 686 / L1230-629-668D) ; the Dodge Gunmetal code is ( Blend 582 / L1227-629-253). Surprisingly, most of the color chips on this particular card are very crisp and clear and the Avon Green chip is almost a deadringer for the color on the inner panel in the above photo. Interestingly too ,is the Dolphin Gray ,seems to have a very close resemblance to the Avon Green but it is slightly darker and the Mercury Metallic seems to fall in between,also with a green tint. The Stratosphere Blue however does present blue more like the color of 1936d2's car! The formulas listed on the back are : Avon Green( 10oz. Extra fine opalescent, 9 oz.Green, 8 oz. Med. Yellow,6 oz. Lamp Black = 33 oz. : Gunmetal ( 12 oz. Lamp black, 7 1/2 oz. White,6 oz. Burnt Umber,3 oz. Green,3oz. Extra fine Opal.= 31 1/2 oz. : . How would you ever match a formula like that today! Maybe you can do something with that info,I would appreciate it. Jim

I guess there is some miscommunication here, you say Avon Green? Ok Avon green is a color that has been crossed over already into todays tints by at least one paint manufacturer.

Look at post 73, if you contact BASF or your local BASF jobber and give them that information they will be able to supply you with a currect formula. I gave the contact info for BASF in an earlier post.

Same with Dolphin Grey and the gunmetal.

[Guest 1930]

Jason, I would love to have the formula for the gunmetal poly if you have it. NO HURRY so just when you get to it would be great. I appreciate all the help you have been to me with my cars. Thanks,

Bob

Same as above but for the heck of it I am going to look into this one myself since you only listed one primary color so it should be easier to re-search.

I have a meeting Wed evening with some paint reps here locally, sort of a meet and greet so Im gonna find out how badly they want my shops business by asking them to get me the formula if I cannot find it myself easily and quickly tomm at work.

Happy to help anyone but I think you guys are making this harder than it really is, the information needed is within these posts as far as I know.

I have never physically gone after one of these earliest Dodge colors, prior to 36 as far as I know for Dodge there is no hope and so since I do not own anything newer than 1930 I have never bothered myself.

I do however know that the colors have been converetd, I have spoken in great loength with Dupont reps concerning this, they have made the information available so I am assuming all that needs to be done is go after it.

Like I said though, sometimes you have to get aggressive.

Will let you know

Edited November 5, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Steve9]

Has anyone tried TCP Global? I ordered a spray out card for $40 of Palm green metallic. They have the EXACT code you need. They sell you the paint or the spray card you request. It's very simple. I took the card to my local auto paint supplier, they scanned it, gave me a sample, it's correct and dead on. Why not call them, pick their brains, and solve this puzzle? I did!

[1936 D2]

Here's the link to TCP Global: Color Chip Selection They have PPG paints. They can find the proper mixes via a vintage paint chip chart (easy for us), and they can supply all the styles of paints you want along with the correct support bases, tints, clears, reducers, etc. The pricing seems to range from about $125.00/Gal to $550.00/Gal. Depends on what you want.