Kevin bc Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Kevin BC here . Another option which I used on my DC is to run a wire in where the centre wire comes in and put it under one of the cap screws. If you put it on the fuel line then you are relying on the connection between the fuel line , the tank through the screw, to the unit. that makes a few places that a dry joint can happen. Make sure there is no paint under the screw on the unit. the idea behind this is you want an earth to the unit not the tank. Kevin BC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 Thanks Kevin, Not sure if its accessable but I'll definitely suss it out tomorrow. Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 On 4/11/2023 at 9:56 AM, Minibago said: Sad to say Spinneyhill is no longer with us. I remember when I started my roadster restoration back in 2019 he told me to hurry up at the start of the thread because he said he hasn’t got long to go. He must of known he was crook. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 Its been a while since I posted anything. Back and forth to Hospitals with my wife and she is now sorted I'm glad to say. Just got her sorted and my daughter said she's having a baby so been making things for her. I have still been working on the Dodge. I was never really happy with the horns ( Zinc Die Cast ) which had been Chrome Painted initially and have tried five different people to try and get them rechromed. No one wanted to touch them as they said they are very difficult and if not done properly then you'll be back to square one. One guy stripped them back and you can see all the pitting. He said if you don't get rid off all that you have to start over again. I came across a place in South Australia and they said they would do them after I sent detailed photos over. Totally amazed at the difference. I don't know their process they use but very happy with the result ( now all I have to do is put them back together again ) One question I do have......how on earth do you get the hubcaps off a 34 without buggering up the paint work. I have tried everything. Still got a few oil leaks and tuning issues. I've sorted the trim problem out and am happy with the result. Hoping to drive her on the road soon. ( I've been around the court where I live but not down the street as it won't make it back up yet ) Cheers Ian 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiminyfixit Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Having dealt with pot metal re chroming many years ago, I found a source back then that solved the pitting problems with many dips through the copper solution, along with sanding in between coatings of the copper, which eventually fills the pits. I've also heard of using "Muggy Weld", but I'm not personally familiar with it. BOY those horns are gorgeous!!!!!!. Regarding the hub cap removal; I find that a carpenters pry bar, which is fairly wide, helps to distribute the impact, and put a piece of solid cardboard on the painted surface underneath the bar, (not corrugated cardboard). VERY glad to hear life is normalizing!!! Jim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Duct tape on the tire/hub cap wrench to leave no marks. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 So everything was returning to normal and my wife had to have the Trapezoid bone removed in her hand and tendons strung up and down to replace it. Out of action for a month or so, which means not a lot of time to work on the car. Also my daughter had a baby so first time a grandfather ! I was getting it ready to take down for a Roadworthy and notice a bit of water on the drive popped it up on the hoist and a pin hole leak appeared. To do a temp fix thought I'd drill and tap just to get me though the Roadworthy. Went to drill a pilot hole and the drill bit went straight through.....bugger. Drilled a wider hole and tapped and inserted a plug. I had to bend the little handles up otherwise it hits the chassis. I fill with water this Thursday and see how it goes. If no go, then the radiator will have to come out. Not sure if I can remove it without moving the cowl ? On a lighter note, I have ironed out the engine issues and its about 90% now and we took it for a few test drives ( illegally ) up the road. Also mounted one of the redone horns in place....a lot better than the first attempt. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Ian Kevin BC here, was that "A Class Metal finishers" that did your horns here in Adelaide, if it was I'll just give them a plug , as I use them, just sent the 6 wheel bars for the spare tire wells down to them ,very badly pitted, thought they would never get them perfect, but they came back, with not a pit to be seen, they do an excellent job, apparently do defence work as well , which you don't get if your work is not up to par. They are not the cheapest, but the price is reflected in the quality of their work. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Yep, A Class Metal Finishers in South Australia....wasn't cheap but what is these days !...the quality was amazing compared to what they were. So if your in OZ and looking for someone to do Zinc Die Cast Repair and Chroming then you can't go past these guys. Believe me, I went to 6 different people and no one would touch the horns. Even the guy I take with me couldn't believe how many people you have to go through to get someone really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Congratulations on becoming a grandfather for the first time. The car is looking just amazing. That was a nice fix on the radiator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Thanks Matt, Not sure if it is a fix. There was bugger all metal to tap a thread in....I'm terrified that it will pop while driving so the bottom line I think the radiator will need to come out. I shouldn't have taken so long doing my resto ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Grandchildren The reward for having children. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Very true....love my kids and now the little one. Well....took the car our for a test and it was dripping water. Made the decision to remove the radiator. Reached up and undid the plug we tapped in by hand so it would not have lasted. Removed the Generator, Belt, Hoses and water pump and bypass. Levelled the base of the bypass to get it ready. Next is the bonnet and radiator I'd appreciate the thoughts of the group here......Do I just use a gasket, or a high temp silicone gasket sealer or both. I've read a lot and seems to be a mixed train of thought. I used a paper gasket and a smear of the high temp stuff on the bypass and only the high temp stuff on the water pump and never had a leak but that was while I was restoring the car. Bear in mind there are probably a few pits in the metal here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Well that escalated quickly...removed everything.....bonnet sides and top.....Found the water pump was leaking out the main seal. Took the water pump off to the repairer and took the radiator to another repairer. In the mean time, lined the engine bay with polythene sheets and flushed the engine out into a large tub under the engine......looking like surgery....but nothing got wet which was a bonus. Smoothed out the bypass pipe to try and get the best fit as possible. Got a call and the water pump was ready already.....very quick service. Now to start putting things back and now waiting for the radiator to turn up. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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