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1920s Crank Cover


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While I have been busy on trying to get my 1925-25 to run better, I thought I would try to make it look better also. I finally got to take her to a car show saturday without incident (overheating). Many kept asking where the crank was? Since there was that nasty looking, black-rusty stubb sticking out.

After checking BOB"S and seeing the $120.00 price tag. I decided to make one up from things found locally. After checking some dimensions with an

1 1/2"dia plastic sink drain tail piece(the I.D. is about 1 3/8"). I found at the local Home Improvement store, 6" long commercial grade 17 gauge chrome plated brass tail drain tube. On my lathe I turned some plugs about 3" long to be a snug sliding fit with a center drill hole for support. This support was needed so I could use a knurling tool to create the textured surface(Knurled). The knurl came out finer than I wanted but it doesn't look bad! I then turned apiece of aluminum to the aproxomate contour of the end. Did tight drive fit leaving a slight shoulder to blend in to the tubing's outside diameter. Laid out the slots for the location bolt drilled 1/4" dia holes the filed to finish. Took me about 3 hours. Cost of material about $6.00.

I know it is not one piece and not nickle plated, but looks a lot better than what was not there!!

Now a question. Is there to be a spring inside to maintain tension so it won't fall off?






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I love this kind of stuff. Well done. And yes, I did pay Bob more than I should have for one of these years ago.

That's it, a new cottage industry for you. Bob had to get his start somewhere.

Let me know if you ever make the large washer and special nut and screw that are part of the windshield frame pivots, 2 on each side


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Funny you should mention the pivot bolts. My 25 had them but rusty and covered with many coats of primer and paint. As well as the aluminum windshield holder.

I cleaned, stripped and re-tapped those bolts (since the outside has the fine internal thread). Then made the large domed cover washer out of some stainless slugs I had.

The oval head slotted screws I had to make up from larger hex head machine bolts turned to the proper head contour. Then re-threaded on my lathe and lastly slotted.

I found no commercial supplier who stocked stainless slotted oval head screws. Only philips and no fine thread. At least it filled the hole and looks good from a distance.


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Guest Texas Old Car Guy


Like your crank cover and the cost vs. Bob's outrageous $120; here's a source for stainless slotted oval head screws:

Machine screws, Slotted oval head, Stainless steel 18-8, #8-32 - Bolt Depot

Just re-read your posting and if you want "fine thread" stainless screws with a slotted head try here:




Edited by Texas Old Car Guy (see edit history)
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Well, when you start to run out of money :o), let me know how much to fabricate a couple of sets. I sigh everytime I go over to my buddies shop with the bridgeport and cute little lathe in the corner with a quarter inch of dust on each of them.

My issue was not paying attention to them. A good point for other owners is to take a look at these before you lose one. While I'm not a fan of Locktite as too many people try to use it to solve too many sins, this is a good application to keep this low torque fastener (fine screw) from backing out due to vibration. The special female nesting nut retainer (that keeps the inner nut from backing out) has to be the hardest part to replicate or find.

Since our cars seem to have the same issues, check your rear brake cast arms that support the brake band reaction point. Both left and right sides were cracked on my car and this is cast steel and can be repaired by an expert welder.

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