Need an expierienced opinion

[Guest]

Many newbies like myself find themselves wondering what would be the best Pre War car to purchase as their first. Considering the avaiability of parts and the number of available cars and their prices, what in your opinion would be the ideal make/model of automobile that a beginner enthuisiast could purchase without breaking the bank and still be restored successfully for relatively little expense (assuming the work would be done personally). Are there any other choices other than an Model A or T?<P>How about the best option Post War?<P>How about Full Classic?<P>What would be your opinion on buying a good condition running example compared to a rusted hulk, and do the current selling prices reflect the investment involved in getting a rusted hulk to show condition compared to a running good condition example?

[1937hd45]

Excelent question Chuck!. I'd recommend a Model A Ford as the best Pre War car out there. This is based on price and availability, and a BIG fun factor. You can find older AACA first prize winners for @$10,000 some times. Repro parts are just a phone call away, if you don't want to buy them online. If you have the funds buy a finished, or at least running partial restoration. Project cars are cheap to start but your first ride may be ten years down the road. One of my smartest moves was stepping up and buying my 1912 T. It is an older restoration, that we have enjoyed since 1983.<p>[ 04-19-2002: Message edited by: 1937hd45 ]

[Guest stude8]

I would suggest your first consideration should be what will your intended use be?<BR>Do you want to trailer the car to events or have a car you can enjoy driving with some kind of reliability?<P>Cars that are driven usually are done to a lower standard of cosmetics than trailer queens. There are events where I have seen cars manually pushed to the display so the engine wouldn't need to be started and thus maybe shed a drop of dreaded oil somewhere.<P>I have owned and driven a 1930 Studebaker President Victoria for 27 years. It gets attention to what ever ails it from time to time and recently got a whole "New" engine that was salvaged from a saw mill. I now have an entire spare drive line.<P>The car is not as glamourous as a roadster but it is a bit sportier than a sedan.<BR>The President 8 at 337CID can pull any hill you can find in high gear. It can run 70 MPH on the Green Stamp but it really runs best at 45 or 50 on a country 2 lane.<P>The Antique Studebaker Club has the best publication (ASC Review) going and that includes AACA! There are many parts reproduced and the Presidents share engine parts with Pierce Arrow so there is enough demand to warrant repro work.<P>Production volume was high enough so there are organ donors out there and many survivors that are good restoration candidates. Certain President models are CCCA status cars if you want that notoriety.<P>My personal observation is that cars of the late 20's and early 30's were built to a high standard of reliability which accounts for their survival. Everything is serviceable and rebuildable. It was not the throw away world we now live in.<P>I'd look at Studebaker, Dictator 8 (221CID), Commander 8 (250CID) or a flock of 6 cylinder models for something different with a history behind them, club activity and support and a pretty good bunch of people to associate with. Stude8

[Tom Deering]

Chuck,<P> Everything hinges upon how the car is to be used.<BR>I have a number of old car buddies with iron dating from '29 and earlier up to '59. Most of them are timid about taking their cars out in our area traffic. The main reason being they don't want to run them over 3000 RPM continuously to avoid being run over by contemporary traffic. If you lived some place like Pennsylvania, Maryland, or New York where they have a nice paved country lane every place a cow took a short cut, then performance isn't that important. That is probably why California is dominated by altered vehicles. Call them street rods, hot rods, or whatever; they are more practical in this environment.<P> The other concern you raised was the financial comparison between starting from scratch vs. buying a completed vehicle. The completed vehicle is almost always the more economical approach. <P> Let us know what your intended use for the vehicle may be, then you might get more meaningful input. I guess we need a little insight into Manitoba road and traffic conditions as well as your expectations.<P> Tom

[Guest]

Thanks for all the replies, I will be looking for something that I could drive in city traffic with out getting honked at (honks and waves are OK!) and perhaps drive periodically at 50-55 mph for short stints (less than 20 miles). I am completely in the dark what the capabilities most of these cars have so I am not sure what to be looking for. The ability to seat 5 would have to be a consideration as well. This car would be restored into a good mechanically solid driver but I would probably enjoy driving it to much to want it to be perfect. I would possibly put 1000 summer miles a year on the car and put it up in the winter. Are these requirements all mutually exclusive? Like I said NEWBIE. <P>P.S. Manitoba roads are typically horrid from frost heaves etc but it would never see a gravel road. Temperatures that the car would be driven in would range from 32 F to 120 F. The Province is almost entirely flat lands so hill climbing ability is not much of a consideration. Our fuel is now at 70 cents a litre which would convert to $2.65 a gallon, what kind of mileage should I expect not that it really matters.<p>[ 04-19-2002: Message edited by: 4 Jaw Chuck ]

[Guest leadfoot]

The all purpose pre-war car, in my mind, is the Ford A. Besides simplicity, parts availability and reasonable price/numbers of cars - there are a whole bunch of collectable models in fun colors. And they can be driven almost anywhere - not on the interstates however with those chancy brakes.<P>I don't have a Model A, and my car is from an earlier era, but I drive locally and regionally to meets and shows. I don't have to worry about 3,000 rpm, because the four banger maxes out at about 1800 rpm and 37 mph. Deering thinks that Maryland back roads offer a refuge for old/slow cars, but he doesn't realize that every road in this state is populated with some road rage a**h****. So every 3 to 5 miles I pull over and let the line of backed up cars pass. I get a lot more thumbs up than frowns, but I do have interesting stories to tell about my trips.

[Guest]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the '31 and '32 Plymouth 4 cylinders, PA & PB,great styling, wire wheels, an essentially modern full pressure lubed mill, juice brakes that stop on a dime and the ability to keep up with modern traffic very well with sustained cruising at 55-60 no problem, add to this excellent parts availability and the fact that excellent restored examples turn up frequently and you have something very much worth considering.<BR>Where are all the mopar nuts to back me up?

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

I posed this question to myself before I ended up purchasing a 1937 Chrysler Royal c-16 sedan. First, it was a complete car that wasn't butchered too badly by it's previous owners. It offered independant front suspension and a long enough wheelbase to offer a comfortable ride. The seats are like sitting on Grandma's couch and the legroom is terrific! The 90-something horsepower engine will move the car and, once I get the overdrive working, the mileage should be decent. So far, finding spare parts at a fair price has not been a problem. All parts are bolt together and there is no hint of any type of welded together assembly. It seems to be a great car with a little more luxury than a Plymouth or Dodge but, that was the way it was designed... unlike today's models where all names are built on the same platform. <BR>As mentioned in the post concerning the Plymouth, my Chrysler also has four wheel hydraulic brakes and this is a great advantage over Ford's mechanical brakes. Even though I've been a Ford fan for years, I'm very happy with my Chrysler!

[Tom Deering]

I agree a pre-war ('36-42) mopar was probably one of the more capable performers of that era. The reservation that I would have is parts availability.<BR>It seems Ford parts are the most readily available.<P> I'll have to defer to leadfoots assesment of Maryland roads and traffic. It just seems tranquil to me. Guess it's all what you're used to.<P> From your description of your expectations, even a '20s car might fill the bill. Last Summer we came upon a '25 Studebaker that had the same car guy destination as us. It's performance was quite impressive. It consistently accelerated without hesitation right on up to 52 MPH from every signal light in suburban traffic. <BR> <BR> In summary, you have a very wide range of choices. Since you have more machining and fabrication skills than the average bear; perhaps something more exotic or orphaned, would fill the bill. Maybe you don't care about being able to keep it running out of a catalog.<P> Tom

[ply33]

Plymouth drive train changed very little from 1935 until the L-head 6 engine was retired from passenger car use in 1958. The L-head engine continued in production for military and industrial use until the early 1970s. The 1933 and 1934 engines were different than the 1935 and later is some respects, but there are still lots of common parts. The end result is that mechanical parts are generally available for these cars.<P>The earlier four cylinder Plymouths have more mechanical items in common with the pre1928 Chrylser and Maxwell cars than with the later six cylinder cars.<P>All Plymouths will be equipped with full pressure lubrication and four wheel hydraulic brakes. Many of them were fitted with oil filters and for most years (and all early years) the filter was standard equipment.<P>The hard items to find for Plymouths and MoPar in general are in the area of body and trim. There is not as large a market so there are fewer reproduction parts being made. On the other hand, the parts being reproduced are more likely to be made by a fellow hobbiest who needs the item for himself, so often the purchase is a nicer experience than dealing with a relatively faceless business.<P>Pre WW2 Chrysler product car generally do not command as high a price as their GM or Ford counterparts.

[ronbarn]

My recommendation is a '33-35 Chevy. For price forget the open cars. Go for a solid closed car such as a 4dr sedan. Make sure the wood frame is solid. I have put many miles on my '34 Master and can still get parts that fit Chevy's up into the 60s. The Chevys are almost always less expensive than the Model A's and a lot more car for the money. The six is a marvelous engine and very reliable.

[Guest]

I've been looking (lurking) for a while, but didn't see much to comment on until now. Seems to me the answer is an Airflow. My preferance would be a '35 or'36 DeSoto. The Airflow is the first automobile that was more than a horse and buggy without the horse. I didn't understand the meaning of that until I owned one. They are the first modern automobile. They keep up with modern traffic, parts are available, they get attention,in short, they are really good automobiles. They are also undervalued. The reason I like the '35 '36 cars is overdrive. The reason I like DeSoto is that the Airflow was origanally designed for a six clyinder engine. The six has better handling than the eight cylinder Chrysler. As far as looks, bueaty is in the eye of the beholder. Just make sure you find one that doesn't need body parts. They can be tough to find.

[Guest]

Thanks again for sharing all your thoughts, I am really leaning toward a Pre War car. It seems I have many choices.<P>What would some of the problem areas I should be looking at in determining the condition of the cars I would be looking at? Engine diagnosis I have a good handle on but as far as chassis and body goes I would be in the dark, not knowing the problem areas of all these cars leaves me at a significant disadvantage when finally agreeing on a price.<P>What are some of the fantastic deals you have lucked into in the past? I would really hate to walk into a under priced car and not even know it and waffle over the purchase only to find out too late. <P>The reason I ask is a coworkers father has a Model A that apparently is the prototypical "found in the barn after being parked 50 years ago", the tires are flat and the interior is mouse eaten but it is absolutely complete and original with only faded pigeon pooped on paint to detract from the exterior. I have yet to see the car as I am playing it cool but I am seriously interested if they are reasonable on the price. It supposedly runs perfectly and is a sedan?!

[cmj]

4 Jaw, e-mail me. I know of a couple orphan cars, all restored , are driven, and almost bullet proof. and for the condition priced realistically.

[NEW1966]

4 Jaw Chuck, you have again picked a very interesting topic. You want looks,sound, and dependability. Have you ever seen a 1939 Buick? A Turn of a Century!!!!!!<P>Greg...NEW1966

[Dave@Moon]

My personal experience has been entirely with post-war cars. The little contact I've had with pre-war cars coincides with the other posts here. <P>You'll notice that you don't have many mid- to high-end cars being reccommended, like Oldsmobile or DeSoto. Most of the people I've known to have trouble getting {and paying for} pieces have been restoring these kinds of cars. The independant's parts rarity reputation is well known, but can be slightly exaggerated at times. The base lines (Ford, Chevy and Plymouth), mostly by virtue of numbers, have it all over the more expensive brands in terms of parts availability.<P>Even in post-war cars the higher end cars are tough. I've often referred to my 1960 Buick as my "real" foriegn car because of it's parts headaches.<P>It's my "real" foriegn car because my current project is a '70 TR6. You asked for post-war suggestions, and there are many obvious American ones. However, the TR series and later MG cars are similar to such cars as Mustangs, 55-57 Chevys, VW Beetle and others where the reproduction and NOS parts availability is ideal. <P>You can literally assemble a TR6 or MGB out of parts if you want to. Whole reproduction bodies and reproduction frames are available, as are nearly all trim parts and accessories. Pick up a few rebuilt mechanical componets and all you need for a complete "restored" car is a serial number and a data plate, and they remanufacture them, too! (Fortunately it's way too expensive to do the whole car that way, or else counterfiet TR's would be a problem.)<P>And when your done your have cool, tough convertible sports car. <P>----------------------<P>As far as the preferred condition to start with, I 've never run into a car where it would be preferable financially to fix it up in any way. The restored final product is not going to be worth what you've put into it. But then, you didn't get to have the fun of building it, did you.<P>Jay Leno said it best: "If you're making money on this hobby you not doing it right!"

[1937hd45]

Chuck, The Model A Sedan sounds like a good car for a family of five. All Model A's share the same running gear, but there two distinct types, the 28-29 and 30-31. The 28-29's have nickel plated headlights, radiator shell and other trim items, this can run up the restoration costs. The 30-31 have the same pieces in stainless steel. If I were doing a pre buy walk around this is what I'd look for. Are the wheels the correct wire spoked ones, are the spokes in good shape. If it is a 28-29 the inner rims can rust out, you won't know till the tires come off. Check the fenders for rips and rustout around the headlight bar mount area. The runningboard to splash apron area sometimes rusts out. Check the hood hinge area, they sieze on the rod and crack often.The lower cowl area rusts out on most A's along with the inner rear fender wells. If the interior has been home to some of Mickeys friends than the headliner and top material will probible be shot as well. Check the woodwork in the interior if you can.I'm not trying to send you away, but check out the Model A Ford web sites for some more info. Report back after you see the car. Good luck!

[Guest 40LUV]

Hi everyone. Been reading this site for about 1 1/2 years and finally got hooked up with the internet at home. I agree with those already recommending a Ford, Mopar or Chevy and I'd choose something from 1936 - 1940. My '40 Ford sedan seats 5 and can keep up with the SUVs and Mini Vans driving up the Pa. Turnpike on its annual trek to Hershey. I assume the Chevys and Mopars would perform similar service. Model As look good, but I prefer juice brakes and sealed beams.

[The Old Guy]

The Chryslers had hydraulic brakes all through the 30s ,but most other makes had mechanical binders unti at least 36 and in Fords case 40 .This should be a malor consieration on todays roads.most makes had wooden frames into the mid 30s, so this is alsoa consideration. I personnaly like Buicks from 36 up because they wil run with the traffic and still stop if you have to. The straight 8 is almost bullet proof and will run at highway speeds effortlessly

[Guest]

Thanks for all the great advice, the Model A car came out of the blue. The son is the one who told me about it and literally had no idea what kind of car they have?! I had to show him pictures posted of the meets this club has had until he pointed out the model in a photo. So I only know it is an Model A (he thinks!) and no idea what year yet, he did say it has manual ignition advance on the steering wheel? He and his Dad pumped up the tires (still held air!) and primed the carb and took it for a ride down the backlane. This is all I know about the car so far, they had purchased the car from a family who had a whole barn full of antiques (mostly tractors) after the grandfather had died. Nobody in the family wanted any of the treasures in the barn so they rescued the car but left many tractors and an old fire truck behind?<P>Of course I want to make sure that this would be the right car for us and I'm sure once I'm in the garage faced with the car my little boy instinct will prevent me from thinking objectively. I will see if I can see the car this next week and take some photos for posting in this thread. I am lucky enough that the car is not on the open market yet and I will be the first person outside the family to see it. I'm still thinking over all the options everyone has posted and the idea of juice brakes appeals to me as well as a larger engine, perhaps this car would be the best/economical way for me to get into the sport and get my feet wet even if it is not the ideal car for our needs.<P>Of course this comes at a time when I can't afford it but when does anything happen according to schedule. I will keep everyone posted, Thanks again.

[Guest]

Buick 1937 up. Last Flint meet,I drove my 42 to Flint,interstate speed,zero problem except had to let it cool off a bit one time (vapor-lock) 37 up had an all-steel body,hypoid rear axle,and a 248 engine which was used until 1950.Easy to get parts for through the Buick "Bugle" magazine.

[Dynaflash8]

Gosh, I can't believe there is somebody else who is hung up on '39 Buicks other than me! I also had a '42 Super. We drove that one to Florida and back once, but we kept it at 50 mph and it was happy. Turned a one day drive into a two day drive though I find that parts are getting harder to find for the old straight 8 Buicks, but even moreso, it is harder to find a mechanic who knows what to do with the torque tube drive or who can even tune up a straight 8 or put in a set of points. I am the world's worst mechanic, and for that reason I've sofar kept my hands off of any of my good cars. I can strip threads and wring off bolts and break what isn't already broken better than anyone. My best mechanical aptitude is scraping crud off the bottom so we can paint it Anyway, Chuck, Chevies and Chrysler products are the best ones for finding parts in a parts store while out on the road. Anything in a flea market for a Ford is twice the price of anything else (had a few of them too). If you can ever get a straight 8 Buick mechanically restored first, all you need is a spare water pump, fuel pump, belts & hoses, points & condenser and you've got a very dependable car. They have been known to be able to outrun their rod bearings tho; so don't drive them full out. You can substitute 1950 Series 40 rods and insert bearings on all 1937 and up series 40-50 engines and then you can run like the wind and be one up on any Chevy. One other thing, Buick did not pressurize the radiator until 1940 (7 lb cap) and the 1937-39 cars (particularly 1939) have to have a perfect cooling system to make you happy. After a hard run, a sudden stop for a traffic jam can be fraught with severe penalty, sometimes even if everything is up to snuff. The 1940 and 1941 are improved but even they don't like parades and sudden stops. In 1948 they put more water passages in the cylinder head and from that point on overheating was a true thing of the past. As somebody on here used to say, that's just my opinion <p>[ 04-20-2002: Message edited by: Dynaflash8 ]

[Guest]

In case you've ever wondered there are performance modifications you can do to a model A that are not necessarily frowned upon by club members and if done properly will not sacrifice reliability.<BR>Many have had a counterbalanced crank fitted, which along with a shaved flywheel,mildly worked cam and a milled head gives more top-end speed and power where you need it while the addition of an overdrive unit {such as the Mitchell} that I have fitted to some customer's cars will permit effortless highway speeds of 55 or 60 while not stressing the engine, I even had one in a '28 Essex which is one of the most lethargic vehicles on the road.<BR>Some purists are bound to take issue at this "tampering" with of a sound design but many are the collectors happy to be able to drive reasonably with today's traffic flow.

[Guest]

<B>BUT REMEMBER---</B> no matter how much speed you put into the car via engine modifications, you are still operating with braking capacity for the original design speed of the vehicle. A Model A does not, in my humble opinion, have 60 MPH brakes.<P>I have a friend who had a VERY powerful early Renault who referred to it as being a 70 MPH vehicle with 10 MPH brakes. ~ hvs

[1937hd45]

PURISTS READ NO FUTHER! Chuck, You can install 1940-48 Ford hydraulic brakes to an A with an available kit, that is a bolt on item. You can also install the much better 1932 Ford four cylinder B engine with the C crank. The next step in an overhead valve conversion head. Check out the Secrets of Speed website!

[Guest]

While we're on the subject I used a '27 Buick standard 6 as my everyday beater for a dozen years, drove it everywhere with only the occasional rear axle key shearing off.<BR>Of course I didn't stint on routine maintenance, particularly with the brakes.<BR>Became quite accustomed to the mechanical brakes to the point of being able to predict intuitively when to apply them, especially on the highways.

[Dynaflash8]

Some of us former Baltimoreans remember a guy with a 1922 Case that was also a 70 mph car with 10 mph brakes The guy drove it like a rocket anyway and passed away from natural causes late in life. I still don't recommend the procedure though. I have a '35 Buick with mechanical brakes. It stops well, but will pull a little on a panic stop. My Dad reported the same effect with the one he had when I was born. However, from '37 to '56 there wasn't a lot of change in Buick brakes if you didn't have power brakes in the later cars.

[Guest]

Isn't what 1937hd45 is suggesting basically building a hot rod? <P>I think what HVS was doing was nothing more than a friendly warning for those with unmodified cars who fail to think about STOP when thinking about more GO.

[Guest]

It just shows what scope exists for a performance oriented guy to do with a model A while still maintaining some degree of component integrity.

[1937hd45]

None of the additions I mentioned modify any stock components, with the exception of the Model B oil pan.

[Guest]

Thanks again all, some great advice here. I will probably just restore what was original except for things you wouldn't see (like bearings etc.). If it is in as good a condition as this guy says it would be a shame to change anything drastically. I actually look forward to learning to drive within the limitations of the vehicle, I drive a diesel everyday so I get the feel that I am shifting like a Formula I driver just to keep up with morning traffic. This makes you think differently to take advantage of traffic light signal timing etc. My wife kids me about how since the kids have come along my vehicles keep getting slower and slower, getting old I guess .<P>Reading all the posts is getting me too excited about the whole thing, I just hope that I can look at the car objectively and not let my mechanical heart do the talking. I just finished taking stock of all my "toys" in the garage to see what I could liquidate to finance the purchase, I have a rebuilt 400HP-Ford 400M including rebuilt FMX trans, 77 Ford Granada disc brake 9" axle 3.0-1.0 non posi, 440cc Kawasaki Invader snowmobile, 81 Honda 750cc Supersport motorcycle. A few grand worth of stuff, I even thought about selling my Atlas/Clausing 12"X36" lathe with all the attachments (tool post grinder too) but I know I would never find another one like it so I am going to seriously think about that one. I hardly ever use it because I have access to equipment at work but a machinist without a lathe might as well be blind too. My head is swimming with all the ideas and compromises.

[NEW1966]

4 Jaw Chuck, I forgot to mention, I have put literally Thousands of miles on 39 Buicks<BR>and have Never been broke down beside the road. The biggest problem I have had was overheating problems in extreme heat. A cooler thermostat, keeping her flushed out, and a auxillary fan takes care of that minor inconvenience. Buick's A Beauty !<P>Greg...NEW1966<P>Between my Dad & my Uncle, I drove 19 "39" Buicks growing up.

[1937hd45]

Oh, he's hooked! Chuck, selling off the old toys to buy the new toy is a good thing!

[The Old Guy]

I have a 40 Buick Super convertible that I have driven 97,000 miles in the thirty years I have owned it. It has NEVER left me on the road!! I carry a water pump (replaced it in NY) fuel pump(never needed YET) a voltage regulator( replaced in TN) generator (replaced in FL) and also points ,a condenser and a distributor cap. I did change the rear axle to a taller( 3.4)gear which makes it easier to run on the <BR>expressways.

[Guest]

Chuck ~ The spark advance on a Model A is located BEHIND the steering wheel on the left hand side of the column. The single lever located in the center of the steering wheel is the headlight switch. So if the car in question has the manual spark advance in the center of the wheel it is either NOT a Model A or it has been modified.<P>hvs

[Dynaflash8]

Yep, I forgot the voltage regulator. I have a large collection of them NOS and have made some number of changes in the last 40 years. The pre-40 Buicks used a three brush generator and the voltage regulator is different from the 1940-48 version for the 2 brush generators. Not only did I go to insert bearings on my best '39 Special, I also removed the 4.44-1 rear and put in the optional 3.9-1 which was standard in the Century. I think the optional rear for the Century was 3.4-1. I've also made all of Buick's Service Bulletin cooling "improvements" but a traffic jam or a long registration line after a hard run is still a desperate situation. Slow traffic or parades isn't too bad if you haven't already been running hard. Mountains are fun if not too long, because you can watch the temp needle go up going uphill, and down going downhill. It's always a "test" or "game" to see who goes over the top first, the temp needle, me, or the car <P>[ 04-20-2002: Message edited by: Dynaflash8 ]<p>[ 04-20-2002: Message edited by: Dynaflash8 ]

[Dynaflash8]

"New1966" you're my kind of guy - we should correspond. My Dad drove a 1939 Buick Special 117,000 miles between 1941 and 1951, and I got hooked on that kind of car during those years. I have personally owned seven since 1955, and one of those twice (I have it back now - it's a 4-door convertible). All were Specials except one Opera Coupe. Two got away that I miss, the first one, and a convertible coupe. But I restored one exactly as the first one was, Glacier Blue Poly with dual sidemounts and a full leather interior, so in a way I got it back too. I have been trying to buy a certain convertible coupe for 35 years and now it's become an obsession I think. I've passed up some good ones thinking this one was "just over the hill". I think I'm now ready to buy any '39 Special convertible coupe I can afford rather than wait, but I've said that before too. Probably when I die my wife will have a '39 Buick engraved into my tombstone Oh, by the way, some number of old-time mechanics have told me the two-piece driveshaft on the Special and Century was a big, big problem, whereby the front section would wear out where it joined the transmission. In fact, aftermarket front driveshafts were produced, as well as rebuilt units, and mechanics nicknamed the thing a "jackshaft" (I wonder why?), but with all of the '39 Buicks I've owned I've never had a problem with the jackshaft, albeit I always put in a new one during a restoration.<p>[ 04-21-2002: Message edited by: Dynaflash8 ]

[Guest]

Listen to the "young"man from Swartz Creek.He can put more good advice in a few well-chosen words tha most !

[Guest Stllrng.]

Chuck: DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE sell your lathe at home. I am the owner of a full machine shop and fabricating shop, and I not only have a lathe at home, I want to get another. Keep that lathe or you will regret it!!

[Guest]

Your right Stllrng, stupid idea. I will probably never find another in as good a condition including accessories. I will probably use it even more if I get this car.