Radio removal - '55 Special

[wex65]

So , I am going to try and remove the radio and see if I can convert the non stop buzz into something more pleasing.

Before I go and wreck the radio front grille could someone that has already done this give me a tip on how to disengage the top of the grille?

I have undone the two screws under the dash and the grille now hinges up but will not detach from the top. Any inside info appreciated before I manage to break something.

Thanks,

Paul

[Bhigdog]

The radio is one unit and is removed from under the dash with out messing with the grill. Here's how you do it. Remove all the knobs and shaft nuts . Lay upside down under the dash with your legs over the back of the seat. Disconnect the antenna lead by pulling on it hard and wiggling it. It will pop loose allowing your hand to recoil and badly skin a knuckle on a sharp bracket. Next find the hot lead and undo the fuse holder. The fuse will drop out and hit your eye. The fuse is easily found by rolling your head to the side against the hot trouble lite. Next remove bolts that attach the radio to side brackets. When you drop a bolt quickly turn your face away thus burning a new spot against the hot trouble lite. Once radio is loose wiggle it down. Be sure your face is directly under it so none of the dirt and dust misses your face and eyes. Now wiggle your way out of the car while supporting the radio with your free hand. Be sure to scrape your head on the underside of the dash panel. Now stand up as quickly as you can to get that special rush as all the blood that drained to your head rushes to your feet. Re-install by reversing the above................Bob

Edited July 21, 2012 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[page2171]

Bob, that is written like you have experience...

[Bhigdog]

Yes. And what a joy working behind the instrument panel......................................Bob

[Paul Falabella]

Planning the same job tomorrow. Getting the Band-aids and aspirin ready.

[trp3141592]

Hi,

You may find this list of specialized tools to be helpful.

HAMMER:

Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:

Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:

Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

HACKSAW:

One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence it's course, the more dismal your future becomes.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:

Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS:

Once used for working on older British cars and vehicles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

WIRE WHEEL:

Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say "Ouch...."

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:

Used for lowering a vehicle to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front fender.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4:

Used for levering a vehicle upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS:

A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE:

Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

GASKET SCRAPER:

Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:

A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT:

A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup. Will not reflect light from a “timing mark.”</SPAN>

TIMING MARK:</SPAN>

A microscopically thin line inscribed on a vibration damper, used principally to absorb all light from a “timing light.” (see above)</SPAN>

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST:

A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

1/2" x 16"-INCH SCREWDRIVER:

A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER:

A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:

See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT:

The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under vehicles at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm Howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is some-what misleading. Its use provides a market for burn-ointment manufacturers.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:

Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR:

A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 60 years ago by someone named Brutus, and which then rounds them off.

PRY BAR:

A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:

A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short

LFH—a device designed to break whatever expensive part to which it is applied.

BFH—a device used when the LFH fails to break the expensive part to which it is applied.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the </SPAN>speed of light</SPAN>. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'You ____....'

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. The most often tool used by all women.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to complete the job of rounding off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.</SPAN>

FUSE (aka “breaker”): </SPAN>

A device whose sole purpose is to be protected by your in-wall copper wiring catching fire.</SPAN>

WD-40: Used if it doesn't move and it should.

Duct Tape: Used if it moves and it shouldn't.

--Tom</SPAN>

Edited July 22, 2012 by trp3141592 (see edit history)

[Fr. Buick]

All kidding aside, put a couple layers of masking tape over the push-buttons to protect them from scratching.

I have found it necessary - after disconnecting all lines and removing all mounting hardware - that the buttons have to be pushed in all at once to allow the the radio to drop down.

Also beware that a big fat rubber gasket around the speaker has to seperate from the dash. Do this by pushing the radio at the bottom toward the firewall. It will swing away a bit enough to break the seal loose.

Good luck. Lightin and patience are everything,

[wex65]

Really appreciate all the input here guys. Weather looks to be getting better this PM so I will pop out and try to drop it out then.

I was worried it would be an awkward job but Bob's post has me realizing how easy it is. I will ensure the trouble light is properly warmed up before heading out to get maximum burn...

Paul

[Paul Falabella]

Just got the radio out. If your vehicle is so equipped, there will be a jack for the foot control on the back. If you have a rear speaker the control is disconnected by two connectors one is in the radio so remove the back plate.

Anyone else find the little tube layout diagram inside? Didn't find a build sheet like I've heard.

[wex65]

ditto...just got her out.

Some photos in the event it is of use to anyone in the future...

I will be shipping it off for the addition of an aux jack and repair. It will be 100% original looking but allow me to plug in an external audio source.

[page2171]

So, was Bob's description of the procedure accurate?

[wex65]

So, was Bob's description of the procedure accurate?

Well, to be honest I used his post to guide me and as a result it was an easy 5 minute job. I simply leant under the dash and ensured my head was to one side and sure enough, as soon as I started moving the radio TONS of dust fell down from it.

I dont know if anyone has dealt with Ward Classics (Ward's Classic Car Radio Repair) but I am looking to send the radio to them for the installation of an aux jack and possible FM conversion.

I will post back with results.

Paul

[Paul Falabella]

Hey Paul,

Looks like they service mostly solid state stuff. I'd contact them before shipping radio. Would be nice to have a discreet Ipod hookup.

Huntsville happens to be where my car used to live.

[wex65]

Yes, I will be calling them this morning. Here is another company I will be talking to prior to sending the radio off.

South Texas Antique Electronics - Your source for car radio repair and restoration

[Guest ewing]

So, was Bob's description of the procedure accurate?

Made me laugh as I have been there,,, and done that.

Very accurate description.

[Bhigdog]

Well, to be honest I used his post to guide me and as a result it was an easy 5 minute job. I simply leant under the dash and ensured my head was to one side and sure enough, as soon as I started moving the radio TONS of dust fell down from it.

I dont know if anyone has dealt with Ward Classics (Ward's Classic Car Radio Repair) but I am looking to send the radio to them for the installation of an aux jack and possible FM conversion.

I will post back with results.

Paul

Which, of course, was the tongue in cheek intention of my post. Glad you got it and it helped................Bob