MikeC5 Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Perhaps someone can shed a little light here. According to Myers, for the rear axle seals you need 6 per car of part 75034, inner seal and 2 per car of 75179, outer seal.Taking things apart, I see one seal behind the sheet metal cover on the end of axle and one that goes on the outside of this cover and gets squeezed between the brake drum/hub and the sheet metal cover. Where do the other 4 inner seals go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Oh come on, someone has experience with this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 I can post a picture of the breakdown of that axle if you think it might help Mike and if you dont already have that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Hi Jason,I didn't see one in the MIM so I would welcome the exploded diagram. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Will try and get to that tonight, I hope I can produce one, pretty sure I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Mike, you would have the semi-floating axle issued for after car no 723,615 correct? I dont see the part #s you show above within the Dodge master parts book, is it possible that these are not Dodge part numbers? I dont see a breakdown that goes into such detail as to where all of these felts are supposed to be and I have looked in a couple of different books. Wouldnt it just be easier to ask Tom where these go, from what I have heard he is pretty knowledgable on these cars.Are you seeing this info of quantity on their site, maybe its a mis-print?Please share with me what you find out as I am now curious as well.I understand that I need to attach some info along with the numbers but again those numbers do not seem to appear in my book so maybe some clarification on Myers part would help before I go thru all that needs to be done of posting multiple pages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Thanks Jason,I did just get a note back from Tom and he said they are behind the rear axle bearings. They are shown in the MIM as 'grease washers' (although quantity is still ?). Romar also shows them as 6 per car with same p/n. I didn't pull the axle bearings so I'll have to wait until then... My car number is 323967. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Just to clarify Mike, that would be A-323967 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Will you also ask someone about the part number, where it comes from so we can clear up the confusion? I am just wondering why it does not show up in the 27 Master parts book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I have not needed to tear down the rear axle on my car, so I can't speak from experience of this particular axle, but from my experience in general, I would not think what are referred to as seals or grease washers are anything more than shims. I don't see the need for more than the one or two grease seals which you have already found.I would also be interested to find out more. What is the job you are doing, Mike?Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Mike, I've not had the time yet to pull the rear wheels off my '25. I need to know also when I read the parts list of the vendors about the "six" felts. I'm still prepping the engine and fuel system for the first start up in many years.---Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Yes, car number A-323967. Ray, when I pulled off the brake drums earlier this year, the right side looked very greasy/oily behind there. The most likely reason (I figured) was differential lube getting past the felt seal at the end of axle. There is a sheet metal cover with hole that fits over the end of axle housing. It retains a felt seal next to the axle bearing. There is another seal that fits between the outside of this cover and the rear wheel hub (it gets squeezed between them). Tom Meyers says there are also seal(s) inboard of the axle bearing (which has it's own grease fitting for lube, does not rely on differential lube). I will ask Tom where the part numbers he has for these seals come from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Sorry, Mike I misunderstood you. Yes, there should be a felt oil seal behind the bearing; seems there are several there! That reminds me. I will have to check the oil level in my rear axle. My Dodge Brothers lubrication chart says to fill the rear axle to the level of the lower plug. I imagine it could easily get overfilled and find it's way onto the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mribbich@wi.rr.com Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) I am not a Dodge owner but I sell old car parts and have a National Seal Book, the book shows rear axle seals as inner and outer. Here is what it says, the national numbers are 5M, 5X, and 5U numbers with the Mfgr's after, for some reason it is not letting me put numbers in a columm. If you have any questions call me. National Mfgr's No. No.4 cyl. up to A930634 5M74 12810 Rear Axle Inner Felt 128-129 5M122 34711 Rear Axle Inner Felt4 cyl. up to 723615 5M202 81 Rear Axle Outer Felt 4 cyl. after 723615 5M124 12870 Rear Axle Outer Felt 128-129 5X260 34697 Rear Axle Outer Leather 5U128 34709 Rear Axle Outer SpringI have the 2 each of the 5M122, 5M202, 5M124. Hope this helps 1-262-392-2989 or mribbich@wi.rr.comMarv. Edited May 31, 2012 by mribbich@wi.rr.com (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Tom Meyers says there are also seal(s) inboard of the axle bearing (which has it's own grease fitting for lube, does not rely on differential lube).Yes, and watch out not to pump in too much lube.Years ago I had my first 32 DL serviced at a garage. The fellow hitched up his pressure lube line to that rear bearing fitting and, without realizing what he was doing, filled up my brake drum with grease! :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I have for a while held the opinion that wheel bearing failure is seldom caused by lack of lube. I am sure that no lube will cause failure, but most of the failed bearings I have seen have had plenty. What do you guys think? Am I talking nonsense ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manuel Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Hi Marv,Would your book have the seal numbers for 1933-34 Dodges [models DP-KC etc]?ThanksManuel in Oz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Hi Guys, I removed the right rear axle (with attached bearing) yesterday and found where the inner axle seals live. The ones in mine were made of cork and there is a formed sheet metal ring that has a slight interference fit to keep them in place. So I installed the 3 felt washers I got from Meyers, slathered some gear oil on them and reinstalled the rear axle. Getting the axle back in was difficult because the unmachined part of the axle rod is a fair bit larger in diameter than the felt seal ID. Even with copious quantities of oil, I had to rotate the axle (with a wrench on the nut) and push hard to get it back in. Once in the axle was impossible to rotate by hand; I had to use the wrench. I don't have the bearing too tight either. Any ideas on if this is to be expected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Mike, Are you positive it's only the new felt seals hanging up your axle? Could it be when you installed the axle, one or more of the seal lips, or edges got folded under? I've not had the time to pull my '25, (A-388850), back end apart yet, sorry. I do have a spare axle here and I certainly see what you mean by the "unmachined part" of the axle! It looks like it was forged on a blacksmith's anvil. If everything looks to be in place with the new seals, try bolting up your wheel and tire on drum, then try turning it. With the extra weight there, you may find it only to be a slight drag, which I think is OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 It sounds as if the seals are not right. If they are too tight, they will overheat and smoke. Could you explain what you mean about the "axle rod". I am presuming you are referring to the half shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Hi Pete, I can't imagine what else it could be. The inner end of the axle is square and unless it were lined up right I would not have been able to push it in by hand. I guess I'll have to pull it back out and take a look. Maybe I should have spread grease on the seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) Mike, I don't think the seals are in wrong. Just make sure the bearing retainer and locking tab is adjusted per instructions in the book. Most old cars, and new ones for that matter, the axle's are hard to turn by hand, very hard sometimes, with new, or even good seals installed. You are also spinning over the rear end gears too. When you put the wheel back on it will be far easier to turn that axle. I would start there and try that. You're right, the axle can only go in positively into the square hole. A bit of oil on the seals would be a good idea for lube during installation. Edited September 4, 2012 by Pete K. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Thanks for the ideas Gentlemen. I did mean the half shaft Ray. It's quite a lump of steel! Considerably beefier than Model T half shafts. When I tried to rotate today, I was just able to do it by hand so the seal had relaxed a bit. I called Tom Meyers and he said it sounded normal; he suggested soaking them in oil while I had only coated them liberally once they were in place. I finally decided to pull the axle back out and take a look and all seemed fine. I slathered some more oil on them and put the axle back in and it was a bit easier to turn. It's also tricky trying to adjust the wheel bearings with the seal gripping tightly since it's hard to tell if you have any end play(manual says there should be 0.005" iirc. I hope this helps when you guys get around to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Good to hear things are working out, Mike. Your experiences with the axle will be a useful guide for future reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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