Door hinge phillips head screws help

[Guest directconnman]

Hello all

The head of the screw is rounded out and on top of that they are recessed about a half inch in the door post ........ any ideas on how to remove would be appreciated . Thanks !

[R Walling]

An impact driver will remove screws that no other method will.

Not a air wrench, but a tool that uses interchangable bits or sockets that is held by hand and hit with a hammer.

In the case or phillips bits, it drives the bit into the screw getting a much better grip.

The impact also breaks the rust inbetween the screw and the nut.

[jpage]

You might try drilling them out using left hand drill bits. If you can see in the recess well enough you should first try to punch a starting divot in the center of the screw using a center punch. Then start with a small bit about 2 sizes smaller than the diameter of the screw following up with the next larger size until you are just under the actual diameter of the screw. With left handed bits you will be drilling in the same direction as to back out the screw. Usually the screws will come loose quickly. You don't want to drill into the threaded receiver or you'll ruin the threads. Left handed bits can be purchased at a good industrial hardware like Grainger, McMaster Carr or if you have a supplier locally. Probably should soak them with a penetrating oil for a while before you drill them. Good luck!

[Dandy Dave]

Drill the heads out to the point that the door can be removed. After the door is off, there may be enough left of the screws sticking out to grab it with a pair of vicegrips. Use a small enough drill bit to just drill the head from the stud so you do not ruin the taper in the hinge.

Are the screws set in wood, or steel? Dandy Dave!

[1937hd45]

Philips head screws were designed to center drill bits, just start with a small one.

[Guest directconnman]

Thanks guys , it is a 50's Mopar and set in metal . They are tapered and flush mounted head. They are rounded out pretty bad .

[Dandy Dave]

Like jpage said, Left handed drill bits may be your best bet giving the screws are in steel. You may need to drill into the stubborn ones and try to remove them with an easy out. Dandy Dave!

Edited March 3, 2012 by Dandy Dave (see edit history)

[Vila]

I have used most of the methods listed above with success.

Another method is to use screw extractors. Do a search of "Screw Removal" on ebay to see what they look like. Other than ebay, you can usually find them at a local hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot.

The set usually come with several size extractors and matched drill bits for each size extractor. You drill a hole in the center of the screw then insert the extractor, give it a tap with a hammer to set the extractor, then use a wrench to turn the extractor and remove the screw.

The trick is to select the correct size extractor. If you use one that is to small, you could break the extractor inside the screw. To large has other obvious issues.

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Vila

1933 Chevrolet

1962 Triumph TR4

1984 BMW 633 CSi

[1937hd45]

Put a floor jack uner the door to take some of the pressure off the hinges, and catch it once the screws start to come out.

[joe_padavano]

Philips head screws were designed to center drill bits, just start with a small one.

X2. This is a common problem on early 1960s GM cars as well. I hate these fasteners. Unless you care about absolute correctness, once you drill them out replace them with flush head allen screws.

[Guest cargray]

Nothing like heat to break rusty fasteners loose. adjust flame to a small hot point and heat the screw head to a cherry red. then use the hammer extractor and if you have any sign of the phillips head left, it will usually come out.