bhclark Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I was doing some work under my '58 Super and noticed that one of the rivets on the driver's side A-Arm has snapped. It looks like it's been that way for years, but this is a very seldom driven car that spent it's last 50 years in SoCal, so it's hard to tell how long it's been like that.Attached is a picture.Questions?-How dangerous is this...i.e. fix it before it kills someone, or it's been like that for years, don't worry about it.-Would I be better off to locate a replacement A-Arm, or can I remove the entire assembly, drive out the broken rivet and replace with a bolt? (what grade, if so)I gave it a good whack with a dowel and hammer and it doesn't want to budge on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Brian, I can imagine if you are driving it a lot, then I would be somewhat concerned about it loosening up and possibly causing more damage to the a arm around the other rivets. Sooner or later it will need to be fixed. My suggestion would be to take a punch, use some PB Blaster and soak the rivet for a day or so, then take a hammer and punch it out. As a replacement, I would use a Grade 8 Bolt with the appropriate lock and flat washers with a lock nut (has an insert in it) to secure it.Just my thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 If you can find the part # on the side of the control arm, I may have an N.O.S. replacement. I have several, but need to know the part #.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338pphillips922@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Whew....the part number was on the only grease covered part of the arm, right under the bump stop.The 2 sides match(1 number off)1179455 is what it's marked, I believe.That doesn't match the 1958 parts manual though....seems like nothing ever does!A new one, huh? Then I'd have to clean the other side! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Getting the rivet out in the car is going to be a very tough order. Unfortunately, the rivets swell when they are installed and will not come out with a punch. You will need to drill out most of the center part of the rivet to get the OD to relax enough to get it out with a punch. These rivets are very hard and are nearly impossible to drill out with a hand held drill. Must be done on a drill press.On the other hand, removal of the A arm is also not a simple task. You will need to compress the front suspension spring to remove it. It can be done, but it is a white knuckle event. These springs have lots and lots of force on them and the spring compressor will need to overcome the forced and hold it. Be sure to get a good, high quality spring compressore and be sure to put antiseize on the threads before you start turning the drive screw with an air gun.I've done it and it can be done and done safely. Just be careful and do it smart. Take your time and do it a little bit at a time.Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Thanks Gearhead....yes, I'm aware of the danger.I bought new springs for my '59 Buick 5 years ago. I replaced the rears, but the fronts are still sitting in the box..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Screw it, Brian...just drive it until it breaks:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Adam, you da man!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
421-6speed Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I would not worry about it unless you want to change out your front springs. You don't need a spring compressor to change the front springs though. All you need is a floor jack. Jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Remove the cotter pin on the upper ball joint and back the castle nut off so there is a 1/8" or slightly larger space between it and the spindle. Now you will see there is a flat spot on the spindle on the back side of the casting where the shaft of the ball joint goes through. Hit the flat spot with a small sledge hammer until the shaft of the ball joint breaks loose. I like a 3-LB. You will know when it breaks as there will be a pop and the space between the spindle and castle nut will be gone. Now remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint and loosen the castle nut. Put the floor jack under the control arm just behind the ball joint and jack up the front of the car until it starts to come of the stand. At this point you will be able to hit the lower spindle and break the seal on the lower ball joint. Now remove the castle nut form the upper ball joint and slowly let the jack down using the weight of the car to keep the spring in control. The spring will slowly expand until and will fall right out. I have done this many time and just did it on a 1960 Buick last week that did not have a engine or front end. I brought this car home last Saturday and stripped the front end Monday. Then installed it on my 57' Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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