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How To Make a Touring Top


MochetVelo

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This question was asked once before on the forum. I tried to sit down and write a description of the step by step method to fabricate a top from scratch.

It's something that's fairly easy to show someone, but difficult to write instructions.

I'm not even sure I can sum it up, it's like Louisiana cooking, someone says "how do you make a gumbo", and the answer is "first, you start with a roux" and that then brings up the question "how do you make a roux?'.

If you really want to do it yourself, contact me and I'll try to walk you through it, David.Coco@hphood.com

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There is a series of books available from Restoration Supply Company, Escondido, Calf, (Restoration Supply Company) page 64 of their 2011 Spring catalog. The series is called Antique Auto Body Books Series for the Restorer. There is one specifically for Top Work which has a number of tips. But as David Coco just said there is much more to it. My two suggestions are: 1) make patterns using 4 inch wide masking tape peiced together. Each strip oriented from front to back that have slight overlap and taunt will show problem areas, especially around curves. Seems like a waste of tape, but it goes to making nice tight panels, and 2) make practice panels using mateial of similar weight and flex material that is inexpensive from the local fabric store.

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Not all that difficult once you know the procedure. The seam between the top deck material and the side valance material is NOT a straight line though it appears to be so after installation. If you could watch someone make just one you would understand the basics. Best book I've seen on making tops was put out by "Stitts" but is long out of print I'm sure.

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I have a reprint of Mr. Stitt's illustrated article, "Retopping the Open Antique Automobile" which (apparently) appeared in the AACA newsletter. I could scan it and send you a PDF. It's 7 pages long and has ten photographs. (I hope I'm not impinging on the Antique Automobile's territory...maybe the AACA has a service to furnish reprints of old articles itself?). You can PM me or send an e-mail to detailed @ verizon.net

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Thanks for the tips. I ordered the book from Autobooks in Burbank. David kindly sent me the Stitts article, so thanks to both he and Jon37 for bringing it to my attention. This was apparently reprinted by Stitts for his upholstery business. I remember him from when I first became interested in old cars back in the '60s.

Speaking of taping the top, here's a video on the subject: Ford Model T Duct Top - YouTube

Also, in case anyone else is researching the subject, here is a thread of interest.

Phil

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If available, I'll use an original top as a reference (how it's sewn and where, fastener locations, and so forth), but never as a direct pattern. The material needs to be fitted to the bows to eliminate wrinkles. As R32 so aptly states, what appears to be a straight line on the car is anything but. The top seams, for example, may be straight between bows, but change direction slightly at each bow. The side may have a slight curve to it to appear straight on the car.

I spend time getting bows positioned correctly. Then, pads on each side, hand sewn closed. Then I take a piece of cord, positioned and sewn in a few places on top of the pads where I want the top seam (measured from original top if available, but always hidden from view on inside by pad). Random marks on the cord every foot or so, then place the main top piece on car, marking centers on front and rear bow, then mark the line the cord makes, and each mark on cord, with chalk on top piece. This will be your sewing guide.

Then, remove top piece, place side pieces and stretch into place, marking on cord length as before. Do not mark the side line yet. Cut and sew side pieces to center piece, always trusting your mark. Top stitch each side.

Then, put back on bows, using front and rear center marks, and mark your side line. You'll use this mark, and sew side reinforcement pieces along each side length.

See, it gets harder and harder to explain.....

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