MochetVelo Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Is there any information available on how to cut, sew and install a Brass-Era touring or roadster top? I found a couple pages of general info in Dyke's Encyclopedia, but that's it. Any leads appreciated!Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 This question was asked once before on the forum. I tried to sit down and write a description of the step by step method to fabricate a top from scratch.It's something that's fairly easy to show someone, but difficult to write instructions.I'm not even sure I can sum it up, it's like Louisiana cooking, someone says "how do you make a gumbo", and the answer is "first, you start with a roux" and that then brings up the question "how do you make a roux?'.If you really want to do it yourself, contact me and I'll try to walk you through it, David.Coco@hphood.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mochet Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Thanks. Message sent.Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friartuck Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 There is a series of books available from Restoration Supply Company, Escondido, Calf, (Restoration Supply Company) page 64 of their 2011 Spring catalog. The series is called Antique Auto Body Books Series for the Restorer. There is one specifically for Top Work which has a number of tips. But as David Coco just said there is much more to it. My two suggestions are: 1) make patterns using 4 inch wide masking tape peiced together. Each strip oriented from front to back that have slight overlap and taunt will show problem areas, especially around curves. Seems like a waste of tape, but it goes to making nice tight panels, and 2) make practice panels using mateial of similar weight and flex material that is inexpensive from the local fabric store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Not all that difficult once you know the procedure. The seam between the top deck material and the side valance material is NOT a straight line though it appears to be so after installation. If you could watch someone make just one you would understand the basics. Best book I've seen on making tops was put out by "Stitts" but is long out of print I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon37 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I have a reprint of Mr. Stitt's illustrated article, "Retopping the Open Antique Automobile" which (apparently) appeared in the AACA newsletter. I could scan it and send you a PDF. It's 7 pages long and has ten photographs. (I hope I'm not impinging on the Antique Automobile's territory...maybe the AACA has a service to furnish reprints of old articles itself?). You can PM me or send an e-mail to detailed @ verizon.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mochet Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Thanks for the tips. I ordered the book from Autobooks in Burbank. David kindly sent me the Stitts article, so thanks to both he and Jon37 for bringing it to my attention. This was apparently reprinted by Stitts for his upholstery business. I remember him from when I first became interested in old cars back in the '60s.Speaking of taping the top, here's a video on the subject: Ford Model T Duct Top - YouTubeAlso, in case anyone else is researching the subject, here is a thread of interest.Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 If available, I'll use an original top as a reference (how it's sewn and where, fastener locations, and so forth), but never as a direct pattern. The material needs to be fitted to the bows to eliminate wrinkles. As R32 so aptly states, what appears to be a straight line on the car is anything but. The top seams, for example, may be straight between bows, but change direction slightly at each bow. The side may have a slight curve to it to appear straight on the car.I spend time getting bows positioned correctly. Then, pads on each side, hand sewn closed. Then I take a piece of cord, positioned and sewn in a few places on top of the pads where I want the top seam (measured from original top if available, but always hidden from view on inside by pad). Random marks on the cord every foot or so, then place the main top piece on car, marking centers on front and rear bow, then mark the line the cord makes, and each mark on cord, with chalk on top piece. This will be your sewing guide.Then, remove top piece, place side pieces and stretch into place, marking on cord length as before. Do not mark the side line yet. Cut and sew side pieces to center piece, always trusting your mark. Top stitch each side.Then, put back on bows, using front and rear center marks, and mark your side line. You'll use this mark, and sew side reinforcement pieces along each side length. See, it gets harder and harder to explain..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 (edited) I did get an offer of an old top off a 1913 Ford, so I hope to dissect that as a guide. PhilP.S. My posts appear under two different screen names for some reason, but I'm the same guy. Edited November 24, 2011 by MochetVelo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I've got a 1913 ForeDoor top. It is in tatters but you can clearly see how it is put together. I can take some detailed pictures if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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