1990 BUICK REATTA FOR SALE $800

[Guest DTM23]

I have a 1990 buick reatta for sale, its a wonderful car i just cant afford to fix it at this point. The engine and trans is in perfect running condition the issue is with the abs system. I drove the car the other day and start the car daily, the brakes work a very little not enough for me. The car was taking to the shop for a brake change which the mechanic did change, jus for him to tell me he think its the abs system, theres also a new battery. The car is a wonderful car and would be a wonderful daily driver or if u already own a reatta a excellent parts car. The only issues with the car is there is a little rust along the rear tire on the drivers side, one head light sometimes has issues coming up the othe has issues going down and the dash goes out sometimes (but that has been a issue for the reatta since it rolled off the line) and a crack in the windshield. I want $800 for it but am willing to negotiate. IF interested call Dee at (734)497-2124 pics on profile<!-- START CLTAGS -->

[Pete Phillips]

I'm no Reatta mechanical expert, but can't you just disconnect the anti-lock feature of the brakes and continue to drive it?

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

[DAVES89]

A hard pedal is not indicative of an "ABS" issue. I am sure she also has a "red" brake light issue. She has either a bad accumulator or a worn pump. Typicaly what causes the ABS "yellow" light to come on is worn sensor leads which have just become "unobtainium." They can be bought used for between $40.00 and $80.00 each depending on where and who has them. The accumulator is $150.00 and the pump twice that or more if buying new. The other big issue is a cracked windshield which on a Reatta is $1500.00 new [used are available cheaper, but once again you have to look]. The instrument panel is $125.00 and up [used only].

An $800.00 car with rust that needs $2000.00 in parts will be a hard sell. And the car should be sold as a "parts" car until the brake issue is resolved. I wouldn't drive it in a parking lot the way she is describing the issue.

Jim Finn may be interested in it. He can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

[Booreatta]

I agree totally with Dave. This car could have a real safety issue and should not be driven anywhere till the problems are solved.

[Barney Eaton]

Related to this post is the fact that several Reattas have been purchased for very good prices because a mechanic gave the owner the bad news that his brakes needed $3000 worth of parts.

There are some thing to be learned here. Most mechanics know very little about the Teves (German) ABS system used on the 1988-1990 Reattas. This system was an option on other Buicks of the same period as well as Cadillac, Olds, & Pontiac. Only Chevy failed to offer the option. At the time the Teves system was "state of the art" and a very good system.

But as times change, more manufactures got involved, prices come down, the Teves system was short lived, hence, not many mechanics ever saw, let alone worked on them.

With that said, the most common part to wear out is the (hydraulic) accumulator, and they are available from GM but Amazon.com has them about $40 cheaper. The second most common part to fail is the pressure switch, this tell the pump when to turn on and off.

It is still available from GM for about $130. Both parts are as easy to change as an oil filter so almost any owner could replace the part.

There is Teves diagnostic information available at Reatta Data Page and Reatta Owners Journal - Home and with basic checking by the owner, you should have no fear of brake problems on a Reatta or other Buick equipped with the Teves system.

Worst case..... lets say the master cylinder, booster, accumulator, etc are all bad, there is a company in Illinois across the river from St. Louis that sell the complete unit rebuilt and warrantied for around $700. Most Buick owners could install it.

So if you have heard bad stories about Reatta brakes, it is probably because a mechanic was uneducated on the system and gave the Reatta owner a high-ball estimate to cover what the mechanic didn't know.

Should you be looking at or for a Reatta, take a look at the Reatta discussion, contact me or another Reatta tech advisor and maybe you can buy a collectable Buick that the wife will ride in to shows.........be careful, she may take it over.

[NCReatta]

One other note with the Teves system..

The best thing you can do for it is to flush the system every time (or at least every other time) you have the brake pads replaced. Whenever I buy another Reatta, that is one of the first things I do. I recently saw some come out of a high-milage Reatta that was literally black. You couldn't see though it. It was in a glass bottle less than 2" in diameter, and I couldn't see light on the other side.

Do you want nasty fluid like that is your system?

[Guest BJM]

This has sort of morphed into a brake discussion.

Yes, I am a victim of everyone on the Reatta forum saying the TEVES system is inferior and problematic. Well, is it or isn't it?

I like the 1990 Reattas over the 1988-89's because of the new dash and an airbag. But I prefer the rarer 1991 because of the "better brake system" and other changes.

I prefer 15 inch wheels so 1990 is my pick year but everyone says the TEVES system is so bad.

Is it because of frequent need for repairs? Otherwise it's an OK system?

[NCReatta]

This has sort of morphed into a brake discussion.

Yes, I am a victim of everyone on the Reatta forum saying the TEVES system is inferior and problematic. Well, is it or isn't it?

I like the 1990 Reattas over the 1988-89's because of the new dash and an airbag. But I prefer the rarer 1991 because of the "better brake system" and other changes.

I prefer 15 inch wheels so 1990 is my pick year but everyone says the TEVES system is so bad.

Is it because of frequent need for repairs? Otherwise it's an OK system?

The Teves system is a fantastic system. You're talking about a 20 year old car that has long surpassed it's "expiration date". Buick never expected this many to last this long.

The longevity of the brake system really relies on the maintenance it is given by it's owner. I flush the entire brake system every time I have a brake job done. This will extend the life of the electric pump by leaps and bounds.

The most common parts to go wrong with the brake system are the accumulator, and the pressure switch. Both are still available new. Again, these parts are 20 years old, and some of these cars have had everything BUT a charmed life.

Next is the ABS system built into the Teves brake system. The most common part to go bad here is a wheel sensor. These are almost unobtainium new now, but there are many very good used ones available.

Most of the time, mechanics don't know what they're dealing with, and quote customers that it will take hundreds upon hundreds of dollars to fix. But in reality, most fixes are easy and can be done yourself.

So my summary is this: The Teves system is NOTHING to be afraid of. Everything is fixable, and most potential problems can be avoided by paying attention to the system.

GIVE TEVES A CHANCE!!!!!!

Edited October 12, 2011 by NCReatta (see edit history)

[Guest BJM]

Marck

Thanks. That seals the deal for me. I am a mechanic. I am an ASE Master Certified for what that's worth. I have no issue working on brake systems.

I am looking for a Reatta that needs restoration anyway, not a low mileage original so the braking system would be restored.

[DAVES89]

So Bryan is this the one?

I've been watching your posts for some time and have wondered which one would make you pull the trigger.

But you better be careful as you may end up with more then one. Or if taking family along, her sister the "baby" Riv. [1986-1993]. An excellant car becoming rare yet with most of the modern convienances as well as excellant gas mileage.

[NCReatta]

If you're looking for one to restore, just be careful of where you get it from. Used car lots aren't always the best because you dont know the history. No offense to our armed forces, but I would suggest not buying one from one of them.. Most of then drive the car hard and put it up wet..

In other words, they get beat up.

The first thing to do when you get your car is flush the system. I've seen fluid come out of a 200k+ car.. You couldn't see through it. It was pitch black.

Next thing to do would be to to the brake test at Reatta.net just to get an idea of the condition of the accumulator.

[Guest BJM]

So Bryan is this the one?

I've been watching your posts for some time and have wondered which one would make you pull the trigger.

But you better be careful as you may end up with more then one. Or if taking family along, her sister the "baby" Riv. [1986-1993]. An excellant car becoming rare yet with most of the modern convienances as well as excellant gas mileage.

It took me 3-4 years to get my pre war Buick. I've come close on a couple of driver Reattas but it was the right car/wrong time dilemma.

[Guest DTM23]

I do understand the cars price is alittle high, but to justify that, if it was parted out you would make your money back plus some and im in the middle of tryin to get another car for my growing family. The price is not written in stone, at this time im more then willin to sell and get rid of her b4 the snow hits these Michigan streets. I just want the car to go to a good home and be used rather its for parts or driven...

[Guest DTM23]

and is now for sell for $500