My next project? 1921 Packard Coupe.

[old car fan]

Hello Bernie,long time follower ,and admire,I think everything you do is above amazing.The car is outstanding.I cant say too much more,but KEEP ON KEEPING ON.Keep up the great Resurrections.If not like folks like yourself,these cars are gone.Hope you sell it fast ,and the rewards are bountiful

[oldcar]

Hello OCF

Regarding the rewards, I do not look to make big profits on my cars, if I manage to recoup my outgoings I am happy. My rewards come in the hours of enjoyment I get from my cars and the contact with likeminded people. These are indeed "bountiful". If along the way I inspire just one person to get off their tails, to get out into their "shed", and to actually finish the project that they happen to be working on, I am more than rewarded.

Keep on keeping on

Bj.

Edited February 1, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Great shots Bernie. Very nice indeed.

You've done the restoring world proud.

Cheers

Ian

[oldcar]

Thank you Ian

Don't forget I still have your hub-cap.

Keep on keeping on

Bj

[Guest donald ellis]

Bernie:

When I first ran my engine in the 126 It did all sorts of things until I took out the electric fuel pump and restored the vacuum tank. I'm convinced that there is no pressure setting low enough to match gravity. I wonder if the developer of the Packard carburetor was inspired by S.U.? Are you running the so-called "Fuelizer"? Does it actually contribute anything to carburetion?

Have you seen that they found Richard III in a Leicester council parking lot!!!?

[oldcar]

Hello Donald

The secret with Electric fuel pumps is to get a LOW pressure one. Even with a fuel pressure regulator it is sometimes impossible to get the delivery pressure low enough.This applies in especially to bottom feed float bowls.

Regarding the "Fuelizer" I have mine wired in but not connected. I am using a single modern 6volt coil. I have the original Packard double ended coil but I am uncertain as to its efficiency. The fuelizer end is wound to produce a lower voltage. Having said all that I did spend quite a bit of time on the Vacuum tank before fitting it and before attempting to run the engine.

I have no experience with early (Sloper) SU carbs but certainly the principle of the later SU.s is different. The "piston" regulates the volume of fuel delivered by lifting the tapered needle in the main jet to permit the entry of both more fuel and a corresponding amount of more air by opening up the venturi. In the Packard carb the auxiliary air valve permits the entry of additional air into the mixing chamber so the science is quite different. I will dig out the relevant diagrams to copy and will post them here later.

Having listened to an in depth discussion about the discovery of Richard the Third's remains, I find the effort and the science put into finding them amazing. I am an enthusiastic viewer of the English Television Time Team.

The same principal applies to who ever you are and what ever you are doing, the only way to achieve ultimate success is to

Keep on keeping on

Bj

Edited February 4, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Guest cben09]

That Packard carburettor was designed as a joint venture of Detroit Lubricator and Packard,,

back in about 1905,,,so said Dick Teague,,,

My 1925 ran good,,not using the fuelizer,,a little slow on warmup,,not a problem

BUT would get 14mpg occasionally,,Cheers,,Ben

[Guest cben09]

Re fuelizer,,,,The old Harley Davidson double end coil for the 74 with one set of points

should work I would think,,,All for now,,,Ben

[DavidMc]

I have driven my 126 for many years without the fuelizer plug connected and without this causing any problems. Most of the driving has been in warm to hot conditions with some occasional very cold conditions. The function of the Fuelizer would have been to warm the carburettor to assist in vaporizing the higher boiling point fuels of the era of the car but with today's very low boiling point fuels the fuelizer would be detrimental as it would increase the tendency for these cars to vapor lock. We need to avoid heating the fuel system not warm it.

[Guest cben09]

Vapor lock occurs in the fuel lines,,

Fuelizer is on the manifold,,not conected to fuel lines

Cheers Ben

[Bleach]

Wow, what a transformation in just under three years. It is absolutely gorgeous. Time to enjoy it!

[oldcar]

Thanks All for your input.

Back to the Packard Fuelizer V SU Carb question attached are the drawings of the two carbs. I think for the purpose of this exercise you can ignore the section of the SU drawing showing the Downdraught version. As you can see there are a significantly greater number of component parts to the fuelizer.

Hope that this helps to clarify rather than confuse. In the Fuelizer preheating chamber the screen (15) is the vital link. This is a fine brass flame proof mesh similar in action to the gauze screen on a Miners (Davey) safety lamp.

NO! there is no provision for a Canary, the tweeting sound usually comes from the fan belt.

Keep on keeping on

Bj,

Edited February 4, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Hi Dave

While I appreciate your sentiments I would hate to be the one to set a precedent. I am an AACA member and fully understand and respect the AACA system of judging and award presentation and am completely aware why this cannot happen.

Keep on keeping on

Bj.

Edited February 5, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Wow, Is my face red. Going back a page to #1529 I am bemoaning the problem that I was having with the ignition switch and the missing contact for terminal #2. Only now do I realise that it was never there! The "Operation & Care" manual that I took the wiring diagram from was printed in March 1922 according to the cover but when I look at the wiring diagram it states 1922 to 1924. Therein lies the rub. In small print across the top of the diagram it reads "Note.- On cars before Serial No. 37001 the generator lead was connected to the lower amp-meter terminal instead of No. 2 Switch terminal. My cars Serial (Chassis) number is 28317..... It seems that unwittingly I have up-graded my cars wiring to 1924 spec. Oh well! You learn something every day.

Changing the subject, I have received an e-mail from Donald Ellis asking about Cowl Lights. To the best of my limited knowledge these were not fitted by the factory on the early Series I and II Single Six but they were available as an after market accessory or could have been fitted some years later in an attempt to "up-date" an older car. Donald has sent me a photograph of a pair of cowl lights available in New Zealand. He comments that they are close but not perfect. He has included a pre-restoration photo of his car clearly showing cowl lights fitted. He does not say what happened to these lights but is looking for some guidance. Can anyone help Donald ?

Keep on keeping on

Bj.

[Guest donald ellis]

What happened to the cowl lights is something of a mystery. When I talked to the previous owner who removed them,he said that they were in such bad condition he didn't re-install them. But he called them "brass" and in the picture they look like die-cast. Anyway,they are lost and gone forever. I have a lot of snap-shots of first and second series Packards A few of the closed cars are fitted with those lights. Any additional information from readers will be greatly appreciated.

[DavidMc]

The accessory cowl lights in the Packard accessory book show cowl lights similar to scaled down head lights not like the ones in your photo. I think those lights are from a 1927 Studebaker. You can see them clearly on the Studebaker on the You Tube clip below, also on various photos on the net.

When I got my 126 Sport, it had cowl lights but they were English Lucas lights, definitely not Packard. I removed them when I restored the car.

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[Guest donald ellis]

David: I looked at the Studebaker on You-Tube and that is clearly what's on offer in New Zealand. If you look at the ones pictured on my 126 as found, I think you will see that they follow the shape of the Packard radiator, or at least refer to it. I think that I'll give up the obsessional search for cowl lights and go to an equally obsessional pursuit of an in-tank gas gauge. My car has a plug in the middle of the tank but I see cars (including the very, very original one in Bowling Green) that have a submersible gas gauge. Did you have one on your 126 touring? Thanks so much for showing me the Studebaker.

[DavidMc]

Donald, the photo of your old cowl light on post # 1575 of this thread is not clear enough to see the Packard profile that you refer to, you may have a better photo. As for the fuel gauge, I was fortunate to have one on my car, the nut that holds it to the tank is pot metal so I made a new one in brass. Internally its just a simple float attached to a toothed sector that turns the needle. The face has the Name "Triumph" on it which is curious. It is totally obscured by the rear mounted twin spares! Good luck with your "obsessive" search, who knows where it will lead but its bound to be interesting. Might be easier to just make one, I would think that it would be possible to have the original face reproduced.

[oldcar]

Donald

My car had the remains of a fuel level gauge in the centre of the tank but as David has pointed out, it is impossible to read with a rear mounted spare wheel possibly even more so with a disk wheel as with a wire spoke. Certainly it would be clearly visible with the spare rim arrangement on a wooden spoke wheel car. I find my fully calibrated wooden dip stick extremely reliable, even with the alarming rate that fuel disappears out of the Packard's tank. I "blanked out" the gauge. For the benefit of all those people who have absolutely no idea what we are talking about, I have attached a photograph of the Fuel gauge (location). Once again I must apologise for all the reflections.

Keep on keeping on

Bj.

Edited February 10, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Guest donald ellis]

David: Thanks for the information. If the gas gauge housing is pot metal that would pretty much eliminate a salvaged one (I have a vestigial voltage regulator cover from Atwater Kent and the pot metal has gone amorphous, but Alan Velthoen in California is trying to make a copy) I think what you suggest is a nice wooden stick. There is a float gauge currently on e-bay of the sort I am imagining. The cork float is on the end of a wire arm which rides at ca. 90 degrees from vertical ; it would have to be calibrated to Packard's tank to suit. Thanks Donald

[Guest donald ellis]

Bernie: Thanks for the information and the picture. I think I might be looking for a nice wooden stick of the Model T variety Donald

[Guest donald ellis]

Bernie and David:

I just went to the e-bay site and looked again at the gas gauge on offer. It is made by the Boston Instrument Co. The face is calibrated crudely 1/4- 1/2- 3/4 If I thought it could be adapted and calibrated to the Packard specifications, I would buy it.

[Guest cben09]

Look out for a Dodge 4cyl car, used a similar gauge,,1916-1926,,or thereabouts,,

There were more Dodges made,,so survival chances are better,,

All for now,,Ben

[Guest donald ellis]

Ben: Thanks for the information. We are snowed in up here and this will give me something to do while waiting for the thaw. Donald

[oldcar]

Today I had the interesting experience of taking the Packard to have its pre-registration Road-worthy Inspection. This could also be referred to demonstration as how to waste three to four hours. Part of the inspection included jacking the car up removing the wheels and photographing the brake mechanism for each wheel including the non existent front brakes. Once this static inspection was complete I was invited to take the "tester" on a road test including a brake test. This involved driving the car down the road, doing a three point U turn and returning back along the same road. Once a road speed of 35 MPH was achieved I was instructed to apply the brakes (as in a panic stop). Both rear wheels emitted a loud screech from the tyres accompanied by some considerable amount of acrid blue tire smoke. The tester's tapley meter recorded an efficiency of just 31%. This he felt was satisfactory in view of the fact that the car has only rear wheel brakes and given that I have some experience in driving older vehicles. Accordingly I was presented with a "green form" which will entitle me to a "red number plate" which will permit me to drive the car up to 45 days each year. In addition to the red numberplate, I am to carry a Government issued Log Book in the car at all times and fill it in with date, likely destination, drivers name and signature, each time before I take the car out and a Brown "Label" which I must adhere to the windscreen.

Keep on keeping on

Bj.

Edited February 12, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[DavidMc]

Bernie, Getting the car registered might have been a PITA but the result is a much better system than we have in NSW. Our Historic Car registration allows us to drive only on event organised by the nominated club. I wish we had the log book system, its much more flexible.

So how does driving the Packard compare with the Lagonda? Chalk & Cheese I would think!

David

[Guest donald ellis]

Bernie: It sounds like Australia may be a preview of coming attractions for us, here in New York. In Tennessee where I lived for almost 40 years you could buy an antique registration plate for a nominal sum and it was valid for life (mine or the car's) Here in New York they have gone to an annual registration fee. As yet, we have no required inspection which makes sense since no one will be driving a 90 year old car in daily traffic. It seems to me that your process masks an operation to exact tribute! Is registration a pre-condition of insurance? Back in 1955 when I was a student in Germany, I bought a 1934 BMW 303. Registration was such a nightmare for me as a foreigner; upon leaving, I abandoned the car in the Dusseldorff airport parking lot, left the keys in the ignition and the papers in the seat. I wish I had the car now!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Domald, did you check if the car is still there? (and the clock for the parking still running!)

Registration in Switzerland for older cars is more or less the same as for a recent car. Road taxes are the same (In canton Bern we pay according to the total weight) as a vehicle with the same total weight; just liability insurances are somewhat cheaper than for a recent car. However, we have also good things: one set of license plates are good up to 8 car in Bern, if they accepted by the authorities as oldtimers (more or less in other cantons) but a recent car cannot be included. Therefore, for my 3 old Cads i have a set of license plates and another set for the recent one.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Donald and Roger,

in Australia you have to get a car roadworthy prior registration and both can be a bit of a trap if you don't know what your doing. both also apply to what we call "club registration" where by you are limited by the kilometres driven per year and you must also maintain a log book of face a hefty fine. Club registration is approx half of the normal registration. It costs approx $680 for registration per year. you are also wise to have insurance. you can get insurance if your car is laid up during restoration.

to get a vintage car registered you have to prove its yours which is also difficult if the guy you bought it from is no longer alive !

ian

[Guest donald ellis]

Roger: I did think, upon returning to Oklahoma City I might get a knock on the door from the Strassenwacht. But if it didn't happen in 1955 I think at last I'm safe. I bought that car off a used car lot in Munich for DM400(which at that time was ca $100 US) I could have had my choice of Kuebelwagen or even Schwimmwagen for the same price. I am pretty certain that my 303 was ex of the Wehrmacht because it had a very expensive looking trailer hitch and a complicated electrical plug at the back for convoy purposes. No one wanted a Kuebelwagen because of the sketchy weather equipment. I drove the BMW for a year all over Germany and half of Scandanavia. Even in 1955 it was considered so archaic that it brought laughs. But it was a tough little car and although it threatened to crater it never let me down. For our German friends with contacts in high places the registration Oberbayern# was "A" over "B" 62 3973. If I could find it, I think I would be willing to pay the back log of overtime parking.

[Guest donald ellis]

Ian: Club registration in Tennessee was a pre-condition of tagging an antique. This meant that you were only supposed to drive it in Club events, but you were on the honour system.

[Guest donald ellis]

Ian: Club registration in Tennessee was a pre-condition of tagging an antique. This meant that you were only supposed to drive it in Club events, but you were on the honour system.

[oldcar]

Wow! That started quite a bit of unexpected comment.

Our (Victoria, Australia) "Club Permit" system has been in operation for a couple of years now in its present form. Previously there was no log book but use was restricted to Club events. The Club had to be one recognised by the State Licensing Authority. Now the system has changed to the Log Book and you can use the car for private use as well as Club events BUT again you must be a financial member of a recognised Club. If you are apprehended driving without having filled in your Log Book for that day you are charged as if driving a unregistered & uninsured (3rd Party) car as Ian has mentioned the fines are significant. The Club must keep a Register of members using a Club Permit and notify the Authority if the member fails to renew their membership and that persons "Permit" is revoked. Our Registration/Permit fees include Third Party (personal injury) insurance. With the Club Permit you can opt for either 45 or 90 days, the total cost for 45 days use is $67.60 by comparison 2 litres of milk costs around $4 and a litre of petrol costs between $1.35 to $1.55 depending on the day you buy it and the octane rating. Octane ratings are 92, 95 and 98. Fuel prices can vary by up to 8/10 cents per litre on any given day. Weekends and public holidays tend to attract higher fuel charges.

The Packard (5:1 Comp) will run very happily on 92 while the Lagonda (9.5:1 Comp) is more fussy and prefers 98. Each State has it's own system of Registration (Road Tax) and Insurance. Comprehensive (Accident, Fire and Theft) Insurance is optional in Victoria. Under this system you can drive your Veteran, Vintage or Classic car (over 25 years old) on any day of your choosing up to 45 or 90 days per year depending on which option you choose (and pay for). Living in the Best State in the Best Country in the World, we do not have to worry about being snowed in or flooded out. We do have our regular annual Bush (Wild) Fire season but you simply don't go there during days of Extreme Fire Risk (usually over 35/40 degrees C).

Keep on keeping on

Bj

Edited February 13, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Guest donald ellis]

Surely at that point of convolution you would either move to Greenland or become a scofflaw!

[oldcar]

Hi Donald

It really is quite straight forward provided you take a deep breath before starting.

On another front and before I become too entangled in red tape I have taken yet another tiny step towards the conclusion of the Packard saga.

This afternoon I called into the engraver who has done similar things for me in the past and collected the bulkhead plate for the Packard. This is the first car in recent memory that I have completely restored without giving it a name. It is simply known as "the Packard" I think that they have done a great job capturing the art 1920s styling for the corners of the border. Very similar to the corners of the glass dome in the interior light.

The question is should it go on the right hand end of the dashboard or on the bulkhead under the hood (bonnet) on the left hand side? A third suggestion is on the inside of the bulkhead above the cast aluminium toe board.

Keep on keeping on

Bj

Edited February 13, 2013 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Roger Zimmermann]

Back in 1955 when I was a student in Germany, I bought a 1934 BMW 303. I wish I had the car now!

I had a look in Internet to see how was looking a BMW 303. Well, it's probably not the most researched BMW by collectors...But you had one and I understand that it's different.

If I'm right, this was the first 6-cylinder engine from BMW, very small by today standards, good for about 56 mph as maximum speed with mechanical brakes; about 2000 were made in 1933 and 1934.

[Guest donald ellis]

Hello Bernie:

The ID Plate looks very nice and understated as befits such a car. I don't actually know when they started putting build plates on the firewall but no 126 I've ever seen had one in that location; so I suppose if I were deciding it would be option#3.

best regards and congratulations on a job very well done, Donald

[Guest donald ellis]

Hi Roger:

Yes, you're correct, but it did not have the crossover pushrods as in the case of the 327-8. The petrol tank was under the cowling and it was gravity feed to two Solex,side-draft carburetors. Once, in Hamburg, parked nose down a hill, I forgot to close the tap on the tank and all my very expensive petrol was coursing down the gutter when I came back.

[Guest donald ellis]

Roger!

Darf Ich mal fragen, wird Deutsch hier gesprochen? Es ist so lange her dass Ich Gelegenheit Deutsch zu sprechen gehabt habe. Wenn Sie mir Ihre e-mail Adresse geben wuede dann koennen wir korrespondieren und meine Sprachkenntnis ausueben?

Donald

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger!

Darf Ich mal fragen, wird Deutsch hier gesprochen? Es ist so lange her dass Ich Gelegenheit Deutsch zu sprechen gehabt habe. Wenn Sie mir Ihre e-mail Adresse geben wuede dann koennen wir korrespondieren und meine Sprachkenntnis ausueben?

Donald

Bad luck Donald! I can speak and write if needed German, but, despite my last name, my mother tongue is French! Even if my writen English is far from perfect, I still prefer to write in English than German. First choice is French of course, but it's no help for you. Sorry Donald, you have to search for another victim!

As far as I can judge, you are writing better German than me...